Which part of the cow and what weight?

[SouthernCross]

I'm planning to purchase my first piece of Hermann Oak leather from Springfield. What part of the cow should I be looking for if I want to make holsters with it?  

Also, any recommendations as to the weight that I should use? I've been using 8-9 oz. from a piece of the South American hide that I purchased last year and like the thickness.  Should I order the same weight in Hermann Oak or a lesser or greater weight?

[tearghost]

I have made many holsters in my time and the way I look at it is this, first I take into consideration the weight of the gun heavy guns (50cal, 500 etc) I would use 10 oz unlined or 8 oz with a 2 oz liner, mid weight (glocks, m&p's etc) 7 oz with a liner 8 oz with out liner and finally light weights I use 5 oz lined 6 oz unlined, second is pancake or cowboy if it's cowboy I always did a lining, last is if it's cowboy is it fast draw or standard cowboy, fast draw I do 10 oz with a rawhide standard I use 8 to 10 oz depending on weight of gun. I only did competition style holster's because in Canada we aren't allowed to carry unless at a gun club. If you are doing concealed carry there is people on here that can give you good advice on her with that, There's one name that comes to mind off hand and that's Dwight.   

[chiefjason]

8-9 oz will be fine.  I used to order by the square foot from there and you don't really get much control over what you get.  You may be able to ask them or tell them what you want.  Now, if you order a shoulder or back then you have control over where you get the leather.  Stay away from bellies, they are too soft.  If I stopped ordering sides I would problem go to ordering backs.  Belt bends would work too.  

[BHPshooter]

I use 7/8 for most things. If you are already using 8/9, I would go with that to start. 

I started out buying shoulders from SLC, and  that worked well for me for a while. You'll have some good, firm leather that you can make 4 to 6 holsters with (per shoulder), and you'll also have some less firm leather at the neck, which can be used for things like IWB belt loops, and some spongier stuff toward the belly that you can use to practice stitching, test out dye or finish, and other scrap-related things -- I see this as kind of a plus, at least when you're starting out. 

I started buying full sides one or two at a time after a while. The biggest problem I have with full sides is that I'm stuck with a belly. There are some things you can use them for (scrap-related things mentioned above), but now I have so many bellies, I don't know what to do with them all... but I also don't want to throw them out. It seems unnecessarily wasteful.

If anyone has cool uses for bellies, I would love to hear them!

Anyway, once I started ordering directly from the tannery, I started ordering backs (a full side without the belly). It does cost a bit more per square foot, but it's worth it to me. 

Wes

 

[SouthernCross]

Thanks, guys.

Also, what grade leather should I be asking for?  I'm thinking that there's probably no need to go top grade...maybe B grade will be sufficient?

[Mattsbagger]

That depends on where you buy from. Also the difference between A and B is like $20. With B you will get a fair amount of brands,scars,bug bites. If you want "clean" go A grade. Personally i would call W/C and get an standard "A" grade. 7/8 oz skirting bend. Good weight for holsters and if you laminate 2 pieces flesh to flesh you have a good gunbelt weight. 

[SouthernCross]

That makes sense.  Thanks.