Members dragonspit Posted November 1, 2017 Members Report Posted November 1, 2017 Hi all. I haven't been around this site for a bit. ya know how it is. anyway. been making some more things and I ran into something that is confusing the heck out of me. Im reading about a dozen post in the dye section, and a few in some other forums. I am just not seeing what I am referring to. So early in my learning of this fun little hobby, I created a few pieces that i used Tandy sheen for resist. then did my dye work or whatever. leaving whatever i put sheen on that left the original leather, untouched., as I wanted. now, few years later, i try the same thing and I'm not getting the same result at all and I am wondering. did I forget, or what? So in this attachment, (and you don't have to rib me about the poor lacing, it was my first attempt). all else i thought turned out well. anyway, so i put sheen on the sun, in the hands you see. then, I dyed the hands the color I wanted, then, I put sheen on that. then, I antiqued the rest. Now, I CAN be forgetful, but i am sure, without a doubt i put one coat of sheen, let it dry and used this process. This week, I tried the same process and got antique coloring spots, i had not wanted. soooo after asking some questions, i put two coats on, allowing a day to dry for each coat.... and the result is the same. so my question is. if I want a hi light spot, just like the sun in this piece, how do i put enough resist on this to make it happen. What am i missing? Thanks for any help. Quote
Members JD62 Posted November 1, 2017 Members Report Posted November 1, 2017 Hi and welcome back, I've got suspicions that something has changed chemically as you are not the first with problems. You'll find others as well. I'm using Fiebings "sheen" products and their hi-light, or Tandys products but not mixing the two mfgs. So far I've only had minor problems that were easy to hide. Good luck! Quote
Members YinTx Posted November 1, 2017 Members Report Posted November 1, 2017 I still haven't found the best way for me yet, but I watched someone put on resist very thin (like almost dry, applied with a cotton applicator) then antiqued with great success. I tried the same technique, and didn't do so well - ended up with a very uneven application of antique colors that I was not happy with. Most success I have had is with the Clear-Lac, or no resist at all. Neither result has been what I am looking for. YinTx Quote
Members dragonspit Posted November 1, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 1, 2017 I stopped in Tandy in Columbia sc yesterday to ask the same. They did not know either. They did say that its possible the chemical was changed over the last couple of years. I am glad to see that its not just me and that Im not just a confused old man lol... ok, well I AM that but still...I will just have to do it the careful way i guess and not attempt to have any resist to do what it once did. Quote
Members YinTx Posted November 2, 2017 Members Report Posted November 2, 2017 All that being said, there are those who seem to be doing just fine with their resist and antiquing work as can be seen all over this site. I just haven't cracked that nut yet. YinTx Quote
Members Cody C Posted December 17, 2017 Members Report Posted December 17, 2017 anyone had the issue of super sheen removing black stain? ive never had it happen before and i have no idea why its happening Quote
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