Dismantling a Rapid E outsole stitcher machine head from table for transport - HOW?!

[Vinculus]

34 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

Hope this helps:

 

Thanks a million! I don’t know if I dare to do this myself but at least now I can show this to someone competent who can rewire it for me. 

You put a normal 1-phase plug on this at the end right? Like the black plug in my picture up here. 

[Constabulary]

12 minutes ago, Vinculus said:

You put a normal 1-phase plug on this at the end right? Like the black plug in my picture up here. 

YES!    We have the same plugs in Germany.

Edited January 18, 2018 by Constabulary

[patineto]

What about taking out a window and use a fork lift to lift it up..

This is pretty much the method to bring big items into your tiny apartments all over the Nederlands, Belgium, etc

 

[mikesc]

What about taking out a window and use a fork lift to lift it up..

I'd imagine the cost of hire of one of those would hurt ( IME they do run expensive, even at half a day hire rates ), and you have to be insured to use one if the base or the elevator part is anywhere public..

re the 220 or 380 3 phase..you can "trick" 220 mono into running as 3 phase with a capacitor ( to "rotate" a phase by 90 degrees ) ..and by wiring as "star" ..normal 380 3 phase would be wired as "triangle"..any pro electrician should be able to re-rig your machine to do it, the part which is already set to be 220 mono can be left as is ( but run off a 220 mono "spur" before the "star", or via separate 220 mono feed.

Sure it has been discussed here before how to do this 380 to 3 phase to 220 fake 3 phase..think that I was involved in one such discussion with also Northmount ( Tom ) and some others a few years back.

I've rigged a lot of my 380 3 phase stuff ( compressors, sewing machines etc ) to run on 220 mono this way ..

or..you could use a frequency variator..or variable frequency drive ( VFD )

search for
3 phase to mono frequency variator
strictly speaking it ought to be a
220 mono phase to 380 3 phase converter
but you'll get relevant results with either search string.

Edited January 19, 2018 by mikesc

[patineto]

12 minutes ago, mikesc said:

 

I'd imagine the cost of hire of one of those would hurt ( IME they do run expensive, even at half a day hire rates ), and you have to be insured to use one if the base or the elevator part is anywhere public..

 

 

sure it will need to be kind of a "Bro-Deal",  i was trying to give a real alternative for dealing with the inside of the building constrains..

I will also suggest to make a "Big foot print" platform using 2x6 so is very rigid and can spread the load of the machine (Awesome monster and work too by the way) so the load and vibration can be spread more evenly..

[Vinculus]

6 hours ago, patineto said:

What about taking out a window and use a fork lift to lift it up..

This is pretty much the method to bring big items into your tiny apartments all over the Nederlands, Belgium, etc

 

I’ve pretty much decided to just keep the machine in a storage unit until we move to a bigger place on the first floor. It’s mounted to a so-called Euro pallet (120x80cm) already which gives it a bigger footprint. 

There also seems to just be two huge bolts attaching the machine head to the stand, so it shouldn’t be too hard to split it into two parts for easier transportation. 

[Vinculus]

Alright, so I bought a 25 uf capacitor and a new single phase power cord. Here are some pictures:

That's the internals of the motor. The two loose wires come from the capacitor. Which wires should be moved and attached where? This seems simple enough.

This is the rotation direction I need.

The motor wires lead to this. The cable on the right comes from the motor. It then goes into the power switch:

The cable on the right is for the motor. This is where I get confused and am not sure where to connect the new single phase power cable, since there's this second cable there and it seems like they share several prongs.

I assume I must adjust this to about 1.7A?

Thanks!

[Vinculus]

Disregard the above. I had an electrician rewire it to 220V and the motor ended up not having enough power to even drive the stitcher with no material to stitch. That was $100 wasted. Guess I’ll just have to get a new 220V motor. 

[Constabulary]

$100 just for the wiring? WOW

Can you post a picture of the wiring he did in the motor junction box? Hope he did not forget to install the capacitor.

Edited January 20, 2018 by Constabulary

[Vinculus]

54 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

$100 just for the wiring? WOW

Can you post a picture of the wiring he did in the motor junction box? Hope he did not forget to install the capacitor.

Yeah he was asking 150 initially. 

I didn’t take a picture of the new wiring. He changed it from star to delta if I remember correctly. We did a test where he just wired the new mains with a single phase plug right to the motor to see how it ran, plus the capacitor. It ran continually like it’s supposed to do, but got hardly any more torque or speed when stepping on the “gas”. 

Edit: he wired it back to original and I tested it with the 380V connection. Ran like a dream with tons of power. Seems like this motor just wasn’t a good candidate for rewiring. 

Edited January 20, 2018 by Vinculus