Second attempt at a holster

[DocDaddy]

I really like how this one turned out except for some splatter to the skull which I am actually leaving alone.  What can I do to keep from getting a gap around the edge?  I sand the edges down prior to burnishing but there always seems to still be a gap.  Thanks.

[Bolt Vanderhuge]

Gap? can you provide more info and pics of the issue?

[Double Daddy]

Nice color and skull pattern effect ...I would be interested as to how you kept those separate...that part turned out great. So do your belt slots...my very first looked beaver-gnawed...nice punches weren't in the budget when I first started. 

I'm with Bolt...can't see what you're talking about...gap? Give us some close-up pics of the edge work, please. Thanks!

You might want to work on your stitch line in reference to its location from the weapon...it needs to follow the contours of the handgun a little more closely...unless it is your intent for this slide to be for more than one pistol. Also, bringing the weapon up out of the slide holster a bit would give you a bit more gripping space than appears to exist currently and would get rid of that sweeping stitch line at the back near the trigger area.

The way I see it, slide holsters are a mixed bag, opinion-wise. Some folks love 'em (low profile...especially if you have to take your weapon off for some silly reason...you can leave the  low bulk slide on without drawing much attention...it looks more like just part of the belt than other holsters). Other folks are like "meh...take 'em or leave 'em". Still, others hate them because part of the slide/barrel sticks out below...they say this can cause the weapon to be pushed up and out of the security and safety of the holster (not a good thing). I've worn some before I started making holsters...made and sold a few since I started...seen many makers on here that I respect on both sides of the argument...read good points from both. TETO, I guess. 

Good luck to you...

Edited November 20, 2017 by Double Daddy

[DocDaddy]

It is really more of a seam instead of a gap.   Thank you for the feedback. The skull was created with the use of a custom vinyl decal cut out of some scra vinyl I had laying around. My original decal had cutouts for the nose and a ring of stars around the crown of the skull hence the splatter. I plan on creating a skull without these cutouts if I decide to do another punisher skull in the future. I wanted a really low ride  on this one. The belt cutouts are the bane of my existence.  I have so much trouble punching through two levels of leather. I plan on switching to an avenger style on the next one. 

[Baratz]

The oblong punches at Tandy are pricey but they give such a nice clean result.

[DocDaddy]

What size punch is this?

[Baratz]

1 1/2"

[alpha2]

Often the seam on the edges can be caused by a too thick layer of glue, or not enough glue... Too thick and it shows because the leather doesn't get close together. Not enough glue and the leather can separate. 

Also, it's important to pound the layers together when you've glued them. Also you can put a heavy weight on the pieces to hold them tight while the glue sets up. Lastly, it may be the kind of glue you are using. If it's any of the commonly mentioned glues on this forum, I wouldn't worry about that. 

I'm fairly certain the issue is glue technique related. Having said that, you might be able to rescue this holster,  (although it's unlikely any non-leatherworker would notice) with numerous coatings of edge paint with a lot of sanding in between coats. Kind of a body filler approach!

[plinkercases]

Agreed on the glue issues. I also think that using bees wax or equivalent "fills" the flesh to help avoid the seem effect. Maybe too late now but as Alpha you could try building up with edge paint/kote... nice punisher and the splatter is an happy accident.

[DocDaddy]

53 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Often the seam on the edges can be caused by a too thick layer of glue, or not enough glue... Too thick and it shows because the leather doesn't get close together. Not enough glue and the leather can separate. 

Also, it's important to pound the layers together when you've glued them. Also you can put a heavy weight on the pieces to hold them tight while the glue sets up. Lastly, it may be the kind of glue you are using. If it's any of the commonly mentioned glues on this forum, I wouldn't worry about that. 

I'm fairly certain the issue is glue technique related. Having said that, you might be able to rescue this holster,  (although it's unlikely any non-leatherworker would notice) with numerous coatings of edge paint with a lot of sanding in between coats. Kind of a body filler approach!

This explains a ton. I am using Fiebings leathercraft cement but I am not hammering it out and I am not weighting it down either. Thank you for the tip! 

[SpaceRanger42]

If you go to Home Goods or TJ Maxx or Rosss or one of  those places, hit the kitchen aisle and grab a wooden pastry roller. they are excellent all around shaping tools for leather work and only cost about $8 in those places.  Make sure you are gluing all the way to the edge.  I always cut one piece over sized then trim the excess.  I do not recommend using wax on the edges of projects any more.  Especially on carry holsters.  As the temperature changes and the piece gets worked about and stretched while it's on your belt you will actually squeeze that wax out of the area it was filling.  Once your edges are trimmed even, wrap some fine grit sandpaper around a burnishing tool and go to work on the edges.  Likewise beauty supply stores have some really interesting very fine polishing boards and foam blocks.  You can also go old school and use a piece of broken glass to shave those edges smooth and even.  If you do that be careful or you will cut the snot out of yourself.  Also I recommend using thick bottle glass, like a coke bottle.  Once you have your edge super smooth and even apply gum tragacanth  to the edge, let it sit for a minute then go to town with your edge slicker.  Don't pound on your edges unless you have a smooth finish hammer like a cobbler's hammer.  Use a better contact cement. Barge or Dap ( same active ingredients but Barge is an import)

[Double Daddy]

The biggest thing for me on edges is like SpaceRanger42 said...make sure you apply glue (the good smellin' DAP Welwood Contact Cement in the red can, in my case) all the way out to the edge, especially where you're gonna be sanding/edging/burnishing. I tend to trend toward saddle soap for my edge "salve" after knockin' the corners off...it lets me apply dye afterwards or before (depending upon what's going on with my project or m'mood)...whereas gum trag isn't as forgiving (or as least I haven't found it to be so). Search within the LW forum for HidePounder's edge tutorial...that thread has his method and input from others on this very subject.

Might have to give one of those pastry rollers a try...or a j-frame laminate roller...Mmmm? Costs me money every time I log on here...

[Bolt Vanderhuge]

2 hours ago, DocDaddy said:

This explains a ton. I am using Fiebings leathercraft cement but I am not hammering it out and I am not weighting it down either. Thank you for the tip! 

I do none of what alpha mentioned yet I get very nice edges without a seem. The glue that you use though could cause this issue like alpha mentioned. I use Tandy's Bond contact cement and brush it until it is wet leather so there is no extra glue. After letting the glue set up I put the two panels together and run my hands over the glued area to make sure they make full contact. But I do not add weight, clamp, or hammer the panels together. After that I use a razor blade to trim any hang over of one panel over the other. I make sure that both panels are now exactly the same before moving forward. When beveling the edges I again make sure that the panels are even by running the beveler over the edge seem after beveling. After dying and burninshing I will run some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper over the edge then redye as needed. Then burnish again and then sand again if necessary. Repeat if necessary. Once satisfied I then apply my finish. When the finish is dry I burnish again. All my burnishing is by hand but I only have to spend a couple minutes each time to get good results. The prep work of making sure the panels are even and smooth really cuts down on the rest of the work.  Oh I should add that I dye my edges, I do not use edge cote.

 

This first pic here the holster is lined so it is 4 layers of leather. If you look at the flash lit area you can kind of make out one of the seems.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 20, 2017 by Bolt Vanderhuge

[SpaceRanger42]

4 hours ago, Double Daddy said:

whereas gum trag isn't as forgivin

That is totally true.  I should mention if you do use pine snot (gum trag, looks like snot smells like pine sol) make sure you dye your edges first because it totally seals the pores of the leather.

[DocDaddy]

Thank you all for the help. I knew getting involved in this forum would be good for honing my work.  I am probably going to break down and buy one of the oblong punches on payday and invest in some barge and gum trag. 

[Bolt Vanderhuge]

7 minutes ago, DocDaddy said:

Thank you all for the help. I knew getting involved in this forum would be good for honing my work.  I am probably going to break down and buy one of the oblong punches on payday and invest in some barge and gum trag. 

For punching two layers try punching your outside panel before attatching it to the inside panel. Then after they are attatched you will find it very easy to punch thru the second layer. Also the surface that you are punching on should be solid. Too much give or softness below your project will absorb some of the impact and reduce the effectiveness of your blows.

 

GumTrag is for getting fibers to lay down and stay down. It will do nothing for the seam that you are asking about. You need to get both panels to be even whether thru slicingshaving or sanding.