Machine Recommendations & Attachments for Leather Binding

[BoulevardEast]

Hey All,

New to the forum, but not quite new to leather working.  Wanted to pick the brains of experts around here and get some suggestions as to the best machine and attachment for our needs.

We're looking to produce our current leather bag line in-house along with a few additional styles in the coming months, but don't have the correct machine to sew leather edge binding on our bags....or even the bags for that matter.  I've been sewing our smaller items with a Brother LS2-B837 walking foot honed in exactly where I like it, but it does not suit the purpose of sewing duffel bags due to the flat bed design.  I've prototyped a few duffels in the past on this machine, but it's definitely not ideal for production use!

I really have 2 questions.  One is about machine selection and the second is about sewing leather binding.

Question 1. What machine recommendation do y'all have for sewing our style bags.  We use #138 polyester thread on 5-5.5oz veg tan, edge skived, 2 layers minimum, more where pull tabs, handles, etc attach.  We're not sewing through anything crazy like 1" of thickness, but we do have a few spots like handle sewing where its close to 20oz of leather. 

Picture of duffel bag attached for reference.....

 

Question 2. When sewing a leather edge binding, do most manufacturers prefer to glue then sew or use a binding attachment to feed it through?  Also, is the binding sewn on the same time as the seam, or is the bag sewn, then the binding attached after?  We're low volume at the moment (15-20 bag runs) so not vitally important we're the most efficient at this time, but still need to be able to grow into our machine.

Thanks all for the help in advance and excited to see what else I can learn in the meantime!

Regards,

Joe

www.blvd-east.com

[Uwe]

One of the very few machines I know of that excels at heavy duty leather sewing AND binding is the Durkopp Adler 205 class with a synchronized binder. Durkopp Adler stopped making the originals a few years back, but aftermarket copies are readily available, e.g. the SewPro 205-420 with the binder setup shown in the video below. Weaver and other vendors also sell Adler 205 clones. The Juki TSC-441 class is more popular, but when it comes to binding, the Adler 205 is the superior design.

 

 

Edited December 13, 2017 by Uwe

[BoulevardEast]

Uwe - thank you for the quick response.  The Sewpro seems like a monster of a machine, but probably why it's so reliable and highly regarded.  What are you thoughts on other models like the Cowboy 3200 or Cobra Class 4?

[Uwe]

The Cowboy 3200 and Cobra Class 4 are both variations on the Juki TSC-441 design. Both are fine machines, but neither of them will do binding as well as the Adler 205 design. They rank about the same on the monster scale, the Cowboy 3200 being more of a stubby monster.

If money is no object, consider the new Juki LS-2372 (around $7K), less of a monster but only slightly less intimidating when you sit in front of it.

The next step down on the monster scale are Juki LS-1341 or Adler 269 class machines, which also have many aftermarket copies floating about.

Here's a video that show three different Durkopp Adler machines (205, 269, 69) doing binding work. The Durkopp Adler 269 may actually be a good candidate for range of work.

 

Edited December 13, 2017 by Uwe

[BoulevardEast]

Money is definitely a priority, but don't want it to be a deciding factor when selecting the right machine.  With that said, $7k is out of the question at this time.  Until we move our operations out of my garage and into a real shop, every dollar matters and my wife wouldn't be too thrilled with that purchase!  

Doing a quick google search didn't give me a good idea of the SewPro price.  Is there a rep floating around the forum who's interested in helping out (hint hint)?

[Wizcrafts]

CowboySew/Hightex has a synchronized, wide mouth binder attachment set for the CB4500. I've seen videos of it, but don't know who, if anybody carries it in North America or Australia. It doesn't look cheap though.

[Uwe]

Any Cowboy dealer should be able to order Cowboy or Hightex parts. Otherwise, what's the point of being a Cowboy dealer? Neal's Saddlery is apparently the authorised distributor for Cowboy products in the U.S.  - check with them if your favorite dealer can't get the parts you need. 

Cowboy 4500 with fixed binder:

Cowboy 4500 with synchronized binder:

The synchronized movement of the binder seems exaggerated on the Cowboy 4500 - it moves much more than the needle.

 

On the Adler 205, a hole in the arm allows installation of a "finger" that does the synchronized movement:

 

Edited December 14, 2017 by Uwe

[Uwe]

2 hours ago, BoulevardEast said:

Doing a quick google search didn't give me a good idea of the SewPro price.  Is there a rep floating around the forum who's interested in helping out (hint hint)?

Just call or email Sergey at SewPro directly. He's a nice guy and best source for pricing info, since he's the only one selling the SewPro line.  Weaver sells Adler 205-370 clones for around $4,650 (or considerably less if you sign up for their wholesale program). The Adler 205 synchronized binder kit by itself runs about $500.  Cowboy/Hightex also make a Adler 205 clone, but they cost more than the Cowboy 4500. 

A good industrial sewing machine will last decades in caring hands. Lease and utility payments for a retail shop is money you will never see again. Pretend you already have a retail shop, sell some bags through your current sales channels set that "retail shop" money aside. You'll be able to afford a good machine every couple of months.

Edited December 14, 2017 by Uwe

[Wizcrafts]

I called my Cowboy dealer, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and asked about the synchronized binder for the CB4500. Bob said he may have to contact CowboySew in China directly about them. I have dibs on the first one he imports!

There are a lot of details about binders that aren't obvious from watching a video. I once had a custom binder made to lay double folded tape over the edges of honeycomb vinyl safety vests for road workers. It cost just under $500 in 1988. Off the shelf binders/folders did not work properly.

[CowboyBob]

He finally got back to me & I can sell them for $450.00.