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Posted (edited)

"Wash" is simply my term for rubbing down the dyed leather pieces/items with saddle soap. I use paste and paper towels or enough water to work up a decent lather...after the dye has dried and been buffed well, I'll "wash" them with the paste saddle soap, being careful not to use too much water...then I'll buff it out with a towel. With a little practice, you get some interesting, darker lustered results.

Saddle soap is also my go-to "salve" applicant for edge treatment/burnishing. I have a bottle of gum tragacanth that I sometimes use but saddle soap stays on the bench for most things. Heck, I've even been know to use spit if I'm in a bind and need to burnish just a tintsy little spot in a hurry at the bench...leather's a little bit forgiving that way.

Edited by Double Daddy

Have a great day!

Chris

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Posted

Thanks for the methodology here, I will definitely add saddle soap to my list of future purchases and test this out =)

I have only used gum trag so far and am happy with the results, though too many people have mentioned saddle soap for burnishing for me not to try it out.

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Posted

It's worth trying...doesn't block dyes like gum trag (or at least I haven't found that to be the case)...and when I use it along with my sanding drums I get pretty good results. I recommend searching for HidePounder's tutorial (if you haven't looked it up already) elsewhere in the forums herein for expert edge advice...it's a good thread!

Have a great day!

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

I like the saddle soap for edges also, per HIde Pounder's info.  And I've also given it a try for smoothing the flesh side of the leather.  Really need to have a moist sponge and an actual lather otherwise it leaves swirls.  It doesn't make it feel plastic-y like a top finish.  But with a flat burnisher makes it smoother.

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Posted

Thanks Baroness, I've often wondered about doing something to the flash side (inside) and so far have always just left it natural.

Will give the slicker a try on a scrap piece.

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