Contributing Member barra Posted June 16, 2007 Contributing Member Report Posted June 16, 2007 How do I know. I just knocked a whole bottle over on the bench. I made a black spirit dye out of mortar colouring powder and alcohol and was reaching for a tool. I made the fatal mistake of leaving the lid off. Works great on leather and equally good on timber. On a side note. I have been curious of late about what exactly is gum tragacanth. Using the internet I did some research. The gum part got me thinking and because I live in australia with a plethora of gum trees I notied that certain varieties exude this gum like substance, so I collected some and mixed it with gum turpentine. This stuff works a treat as an edge burnishing stain. Barra Quote
Contributing Member barra Posted June 16, 2007 Author Contributing Member Report Posted June 16, 2007 solution. Paint the whole bench top. The big blotch in the middle just bugged me too much. Barra Quote
Members Romey Posted June 17, 2007 Members Report Posted June 17, 2007 Another Homeade one with many uses besides leather is iron and vingear together for about a week or so, I have seen seen steel wool used as well, make the blackest black you ever seen. There are others to maybe ill postem if anyone is interested R. Quote
Members Romey Posted June 22, 2007 Members Report Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) yup, steel wool, iron fillings ect, any sort of iron. This was used not only as a leather dye but a wood dye as well on rifle stocks way back in the day. early 1800s. Steel Wool + Vinegar ==>Iron (II) acetate (aka Ferrous Acetate) Iron (II) acetate + Tannic Acid ==> somehow makes black leather Other homeade dyes are Tabacco dye, Walnut husk made dyes, ect. Leather has been around alot longer then the fancy factories we got that will make the dyes for us. Edited June 22, 2007 by Romey Quote
Moderator Art Posted June 22, 2007 Moderator Report Posted June 22, 2007 A dye I use (haven't used it in a while) on period holsters and knife sheaths is boiled walnut hulls. You need to boil them in an iron pot (or throw a piece of iron in a stainless pot) to fix the dye. This is a water based dye and works well but is a little light. You might be able to make it darker by boiling more hulls or concentrating by boiling. You will have to oil after dyeing as this stuff takes the oil out of the leather big time. This dye, some oil, and the sun turn out a nice natural product. Application is by immersion, and leave it in a few minutes, it is not a real quick dye. Art yup, steel wool, iron fillings ect, any sort of iron. This was used not only as a leather dye but a wood dye as well on rifle stocks way back in the day. early 1800s Quote
Members Grace Posted June 22, 2007 Members Report Posted June 22, 2007 There is a simple dye that works and makes for a nice natural looking finish. Coffee or tea. Make a strong (or not) solution. Dampen the leather post carving and allow the work to sit in the fridge till you are very sure the moisture is even throughout the project. The more wet the project the less the dye will 'Take'. Apply solution to taste. If the work is carved you can pour the brew over the entire work allowing it to "puddle" in the depressions. Let it sit. It is going to soak in more in the cuts thus accenting them. Once dry I like to saddle soap the piece and buff to a low luster. That is just my preference. Caution: If you have many pieces you want to match it is best to do them all with the same batch of 'dye'. I have done no work in years but that was an old trick when money was tight. There are many natural dyes. Grace Quote
Members pella Posted September 25, 2007 Members Report Posted September 25, 2007 How do these natural dye react with sun and elements? Do they fade a lot? Quote
Pip Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Dried walnut husk crushed added to alcohol, great brown add steel wool for black. Careful as you gather the husks as they will pit and dye you knife and fingers just as well as leather. Quote
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