BasementLeather Report post Posted March 10, 2018 Hi everyone this is my first post. The information here is great. So the Fileteuse is obviously very expensive. It uses a Regad M3000 Transformer. Can't I just buy another transformer on Amazon? I also heard that Campbell-Randall had a cheaper electric creaser option but can't seem to find it. My goal is to edge finish mainly with Stahl or Giardini. Will probably use Giardini since Stahl seems hard to come by in the US. I believe these both work well with heat correct? Then I was ok, this can be used for edge creasing as well. Initially, for edge crease I was just going to use a wing divider. What is wrong with just using a wing divider over the electric creaser? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Webicons Report post Posted March 11, 2018 Nothing wrong with just using a divider however some leathers require heat to crease. In that case you can either heat your divider over a flame or use a electric creaser. Where the electric creaser, or fileteuse really shines is shaping and smoothing your edge paint. The optimum heat necessary to efficiently smooth and shape edge paint has a very small window. Too hot and it burns; too cold and nothing happens. A manual creaser with a flame is too finicky and cools down too quickly. A recent thread had links to a few cheaper alternatives to Regad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted March 11, 2018 Here is the link to the Campbell-Randall site that lists their BF110 Hot Iron Station for Burnishing, Crease Lines, & Thread Trimming for $225: https://campbell-randall.com/shop/edge-finishing. You might call them during business hours to get more information, 1-800-327-9420. Friendly service. When I bought one from them it was available without the transformer, and at that time they also offered an assortment of tips. Based on the information shown in this listing, those options may have changed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
koreric75 Report post Posted March 11, 2018 I had an opportunity to pick up a few of the old big blue soldering stations that my old unit was tossing out...wish to heck i would've snagged a couple! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0820 Report post Posted March 31, 2019 On 3/10/2018 at 4:54 PM, BasementLeather said: Hi everyone this is my first post. The information here is great. So the Fileteuse is obviously very expensive. It uses a Regad M3000 Transformer. Can't I just buy another transformer on Amazon? I also heard that Campbell-Randall had a cheaper electric creaser option but can't seem to find it. My goal is to edge finish mainly with Stahl or Giardini. Will probably use Giardini since Stahl seems hard to come by in the US. I believe these both work well with heat correct? Then I was ok, this can be used for edge creasing as well. Initially, for edge crease I was just going to use a wing divider. What is wrong with just using a wing divider over the electric creaser? Check this electric creaser in case you still need it. It takes around 300 for a machine, handle, handle rest and 5 irons. And it can accurately control and display the temperature, which is convinent for smoothing edge paint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SSGArmstrong Report post Posted November 10, 2021 Pssopp 9Pcs Leather Edge Brass Solder Brass Soldering Iron Tip to Burn The Edge Decorate Leather Craft Making ToolFor the less mechanically inclined. You may need to burr a cheap solder pen. I clamp my rotary tool upright using a Vise Bench Vise Swivel Universal Table Vise Clamp-on Tilts Rotate 360° Universal Work 3" (v1) (also sold on amazon for $15-$19) and used a burr bit from a set also found for cheap here. The solder I used to test this was a $5 Harbor freight in store purchase. I asked the clerk if burring the hole to make it wider would be dangerous and he responded, "not at all, I've used a nail in one before". So I went home and widened it. Keep in mind that if you find the little solders on etsy or ebay that it is a really cheap solder with the only advantage being the temp control, but now that I know I can just do it myself I will just buy one that has a temp gauge. One more thing to note is I would recommend a solder with the screw tighten on the end. I will point this out in a pic for everyone. This way you can tighten these bits on since they have smooth ends that will not screw in like some other commonly used models. I'll also include a picture of the original tip in the harbor freight solder I bought as a reference. I really hope this helps everyone because these are a steal compared to anywhere else I've seen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites