12 Ga Shell Holder

[garypl]

Made a belt pouch to hold 12 ga shells for my friend’s retirement party.  Used 4-5 oz leather stitched with .8mm tiger thread.

 

 

[kiwican]

makes me want a teen burger and a root beer!

[falcon45]

Very nice........neat job garypl!

Edited March 18, 2018 by falcon45

[alpha2]

12 hours ago, kiwican said:

makes me want a teen burger and a root beer!

It took me a second to figure that one out! Now I want one too!

I might have to copy that design for the shell holder. I'd put it off  because I didn't want to deal with the corners. Problem solved!

[garypl]

13 hours ago, kiwican said:

makes me want a teen burger and a root beer!

Hah!  Those were my favorites too back in the 60’s along with their competitor Dog & Suds!

[garypl]

5 hours ago, falcon45 said:

Very nice........neat job garypl!

Thanks Falcon!

 

1 hour ago, alpha2 said:

It took me a second to figure that one out! Now I want one too!

I might have to copy that design for the shell holder. I'd put it off  because I didn't want to deal with the corners. Problem solved!

Thanks alpha - it’s a simple design - just a cross that is stitched up the sides with the longest section flipped over for the belt loop.  If you need dimensions I can measure my template later today.

Gary

[alpha2]

Appreciate the offer, but I've got a few thousand boxes here to measure and make a template! Unfortunately, most of the boxes are empty.

I'm working on a holster for a G19 right now, I'll get started on the shell holder while the glue is drying. Or dye is drying. Or finish is drying. Seems like I spend most of my time waiting for stuff to dry!

Edited March 18, 2018 by alpha2

[MikeG]

"Made a belt pouch to hold 12 ga shells for my friend’s retirement party."   -- Bet that's going to be one hell of a party!

Nice job on the pouch!

[alpha2]

35 minutes ago, MikeG said:

"Made a belt pouch to hold 12 ga shells for my friend’s retirement party."   -- Bet that's going to be one hell of a party!

Nice job on the pouch!

I didn't think of that! 

[crfiremech]

 

Garypl:     Awesome Job!  Looks Simple will be making a couple for a Friend. 

The color around the center Initials, How did you do that with a airbrush or wool/Sponge? 

Thank You for Sharing      ~Hillbilly~

[garypl]

4 hours ago, crfiremech said:

 

Garypl:     Awesome Job!  Looks Simple will be making a couple for a Friend. 

The color around the center Initials, How did you do that with a airbrush or wool/Sponge? 

Thank You for Sharing      ~Hillbilly~

Thanks Hillbilly!

I stamped the  background and initials first, then dyed the whole piece saddle tan.  I painted the initials with Giardini matte paint, then airbrushed the area outside the oval with Fiebings Chocolate dye.  This is an easy project to make - cut 1 piece in a cross shape and stitch up the sides.

Gary

[crfiremech]

Thank you so much for the Reply!  I will be making a few of this Case's

This give me the reason to get the air brush Now 

I sure i will need lots of Practice 

~Hillbilly~ 

[garypl]

4 minutes ago, crfiremech said:

Thank you so much for the Reply!  I will be making a few of this Case's

This give me the reason to get the air brush Now 

I sure i will need lots of Practice 

~Hillbilly~ 

Get the inexpensive ($10) airbrush from Harbor Freight.  The one with the plastic cups - works great and won’t break the bank while you learn to use it!

Gary

[crfiremech]

Wow! garypl,  I was just thinking about going to Harbor Freight but was not sure what one to get

Now I Know!  It sounds like fun that is trying to learn to use an airbrush

Thank you so much for the GREAT Tip garypl. 

~Hillbilly~

[alpha2]

Well, I did it. Sort of a "proof of concept, try it on for sizing issues" piece. I put a riveted strap under the "mulligan" sleeves, as I've had more than one loosen up over time, and didn't want the shells to drop out. As it turns out, the tension without it I believe is perfect. It can loosen up just a bit and still be alright. I had some trouble with the tiny camo stamp. Every once in a while it would just sink almost through that thin leather! So, inconsistent shading of a few. I've always had issues with that tiny stamp. Can't see it from where I stand when I shoot, though! 

Thanks for the idea!

Jeff

[garypl]

4 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Well, I did it. Sort of a "proof of concept, try it on for sizing issues" piece. I put a riveted strap under the "mulligan" sleeves, as I've had more than one loosen up over time, and didn't want the shells to drop out. As it turns out, the tension without it I believe is perfect. It can loosen up just a bit and still be alright. I had some trouble with the tiny camo stamp. Every once in a while it would just sink almost through that thin leather! So, inconsistent shading of a few. I've always had issues with that tiny stamp. Can't see it from where I stand when I shoot, though! 

Thanks for the idea!

Jeff

 

 

Looks great Jeff!  Did you sew it by hand or with your machine?   I like the idea of using a rivet under the side shell holders - never have to worry about them loosening up.  I might incorporate this in another pouch I am making for a friend!

Gary

[alpha2]

Thanks, Gary.

I also toyed with the idea of putting a small rivet at the top of the pieces, where all the strain will be when inserting/removing the box of shell will be. If I was still shooting thousands of rounds a year, I probably would have done that. 

I sewed it on my CowBoy 4500. I just bought it recently, and am looking for excuses to actually use it. The forward/reverse areas show it, but I wanted plenty of reinforcement in those areas. Normally, I just reverse three stitches, then go forward for the run, but I just watched a video of someone going forward three, then back three, then forward for the run. Thought I'd try it. Bad idea. It bunches up badly on the back side. I'll go back to the original procedure.

It wasn't "loosening up" that made me use a rivet for the Mulligan strap. It was the tiny area involved. It would have been two stitches with thread. Hardly seemed worth it. It's a judgement call, I guess. It's not a Hermes bag, right? 

Still, I won't be embarrassed to wear this at the range. I'll just loop my snazzy home-made belt through it and break-em-all!

Jeff

[garypl]

7 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Thanks, Gary.

I also toyed with the idea of putting a small rivet at the top of the pieces, where all the strain will be when inserting/removing the box of shell will be. If I was still shooting thousands of rounds a year, I probably would have done that. 

I sewed it on my CowBoy 4500. I just bought it recently, and am looking for excuses to actually use it. The forward/reverse areas show it, but I wanted plenty of reinforcement in those areas. Normally, I just reverse three stitches, then go forward for the run, but I just watched a video of someone going forward three, then back three, then forward for the run. Thought I'd try it. Bad idea. It bunches up badly on the back side. I'll go back to the original procedure.

It wasn't "loosening up" that made me use a rivet for the Mulligan strap. It was the tiny area involved. It would have been two stitches with thread. Hardly seemed worth it. It's a judgement call, I guess. It's not a Hermes bag, right? 

Still, I won't be embarrassed to wear this at the range. I'll just loop my snazzy home-made belt through it and break-em-all!

Jeff

Jeff, thanks for the feedback.  Agree with you on the rivet use for the side loops.  I stitch my shell box holders by hand because of the small length of the stitch runs and seems easier than bending the box over on my machine to sew it!  I made one of these for myself about 6 years ago and use it 1-2 times a week and other than looking a little beat up, it is holding up great, so I don’t think you would need rivets at the top edges.  (I don’t glue the sides before stitching - just  prepunch the holes and stitch them up.)

Gary