Weight Lifting Belt Seeking advice on thickness

[Firewalker]

Hello there all.  

I am wanting to make a lift belt for a potential client and this will be my first one.  Has anyone made them before and if so, what weight leather would you recommend?  This will be long enough to fit a 60" waist so buying off the rack is not an option.  I am thinking two layers of 12 oz would be thick enough.  I am planning a 3" buckle / belt with it widening to 6" across the back.  Any advice is always appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

Scott

[JLSleather]

These are generally a single layer of 13/15 oz, or two layers of 8 oz.  MORE than enough.  BRIDLE works great, since it wont absorb the sweat.  If you want to carve / stamp it, I'd go with an inner layer of bridle and outer layer of tooling leather.

And I've made them 6" wide for the CONFUSED when they specifically request that, but it's pointless really, 4" is "normal". Unless the guy is quite tall, I stick to 4" wide. (The guys who REALLY work out will tell you that the belt is for your ABDOMEN, not your back.  The width is to SPREAD THE PRESSURE out when your AB MUSCLES FLEX, preventing hernia) 

IF you go with two layers, be sure to put a bit of curve in when you glue the layers - not flat on the table.  Looks nicer, more professional, and most say it's more comfortable to use (inside is smooth).

And finally, my PERSONAL preference -- much as I like tooled leather, I think it's easy to OVER DO tooling on these.  Less is more.

Here's one way, if it helps, have atter ... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/WB4.pdf

 

[Firewalker]

6 hours ago, JLSleather said:

These are generally a single layer of 13/15 oz, or two layers of 8 oz.  MORE than enough.  BRIDLE works great, since it wont absorb the sweat.  If you want to carve / stamp it, I'd go with an inner layer of bridle and outer layer of tooling leather.

And I've made them 6" wide for the CONFUSED when they specifically request that, but it's pointless really, 4" is "normal". Unless the guy is quite tall, I stick to 4" wide. (The guys who REALLY work out will tell you that the belt is for your ABDOMEN, not your back.  The width is to SPREAD THE PRESSURE out when your AB MUSCLES FLEX, preventing hernia) 

IF you go with two layers, be sure to put a bit of curve in when you glue the layers - not flat on the table.  Looks nicer, more professional, and most say it's more comfortable to use (inside is smooth).

And finally, my PERSONAL preference -- much as I like tooled leather, I think it's easy to OVER DO tooling on these.  Less is more.

Here's one way, if it helps, have atter ... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/WB4.pdf

 

Hello there and thank you for the reply.

I must say that is the most information packed reply I could imagine and I really appreciate the information.  You are always eager to share your knowledge and I really admire that.  I do agree with you on the real reason for the belt and giving you something to push against.  I can see how putting the curve in it would make it more comfortable as well.  

I originally was thinking of doing two layers flesh to flesh side cemented to give a smooth edge on the inside and adding some suede for grip.  I want just a little bit of grip but don't really want to make a sweat sponge.  Would you just stack them flesh to grain and leave the flesh for the "grip".  (in the example of using bridle leather)  I figured if it is suede there is only so much sweat that can be absorbed and the next layer would be sealed grain side.  What would you recommend?  I hope I am getting my point across clearly.  Thanks a million for the interest.  

Scott

[JLSleather]

Flesh to flesh, leave inside smooth.  Bridle grain side to the inside, just buff (no finish needed).  The belt in teh pic got 3 light coats of neatsfoot, couple days apart, otherwise no "finish".  Each his own.

[Leatherhips]

Hi,

In case useful, take a look at this supplier of powerlifting belts - https://titansupport.com/product-category/powerlifting-belts/titan-longhorn-belt/  

Many moons ago I used to compete & a lot of powerlifters preferred the suede or flesh lining, not so much for the sweat aspect, but more so it didn't slip around on top of clothes.

Andy

[Firewalker]

8 hours ago, JLSleather said:

Flesh to flesh, leave inside smooth.  Bridle grain side to the inside, just buff (no finish needed).  The belt in teh pic got 3 light coats of neatsfoot, couple days apart, otherwise no "finish".  Each his own.

Thank you very much.  I was able to get them to go down to a 3"-5" but was set on it.  You did a nice job on that one you shared.  Nice indeed!

7 hours ago, Leatherhips said:

Hi,

In case useful, take a look at this supplier of powerlifting belts - https://titansupport.com/product-category/powerlifting-belts/titan-longhorn-belt/  

Many moons ago I used to compete & a lot of powerlifters preferred the suede or flesh lining, not so much for the sweat aspect, but more so it didn't slip around on top of clothes.

Andy

Hi there Andy.  That's what I was wondering about.  It's been a while since I had a deadlift bar in front of me. I appreciate the interest 

[bgl500]

On 3/24/2018 at 9:20 AM, JLSleather said:

These are generally a single layer of 13/15 oz, or two layers of 8 oz.  MORE than enough.  BRIDLE works great, since it wont absorb the sweat.  If you want to carve / stamp it, I'd go with an inner layer of bridle and outer layer of tooling leather.

And I've made them 6" wide for the CONFUSED when they specifically request that, but it's pointless really, 4" is "normal". Unless the guy is quite tall, I stick to 4" wide. (The guys who REALLY work out will tell you that the belt is for your ABDOMEN, not your back.  The width is to SPREAD THE PRESSURE out when your AB MUSCLES FLEX, preventing hernia) 

IF you go with two layers, be sure to put a bit of curve in when you glue the layers - not flat on the table.  Looks nicer, more professional, and most say it's more comfortable to use (inside is smooth).

And finally, my PERSONAL preference -- much as I like tooled leather, I think it's easy to OVER DO tooling on these.  Less is more.

Here's one way, if it helps, have atter ... http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/WB4.pdf

 

JLS is pretty much correct. The purpose of a belt is to give your abdominal muscles something firm to press against to aid in building abdominal pressure and a rigid torso which is what helps to protect the back. Most flimsy belts you see in commercial gyms are useless.

The two most common thickness belts are a 10mm (That's what I use) and a 13mm. It's a personal preference thing but I'd venture to say most average lifters would be fine with 10mm. My belt has the flesh side exposed on both sides although I've seen plenty of belts with the smooth side on outside of the belt and flesh on the inside.

For some more reference here is a link to the belt I use:

http://www.inzernet.com/detail_belt.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FOREVERBELTS_BUCKLE10MM

 

[JLSleather]

Actually, that's not "flesh side out" -- that's somebody selling you SPLIT leather (the grain is gone).  It's cheaper, so their margin is higher.  Each person does his / her own thing - no matter to me -  but anybody says he can alter 1/4" of leather by flexing his abs (with weight or without) is WAY 'full of it'.  

I don't know how a belt would "slide" or "move around" either, long as we're on that.  A belt - once tightened - could only possibly move to a part of the body which is SMALLER than where it is put on.  So the only person who would have a belt MOVING on them, would be the one whose waist is larger than the area above or below it.

[Firewalker]

On 3/26/2018 at 8:38 AM, bgl500 said:

JLS is pretty much correct. The purpose of a belt is to give your abdominal muscles something firm to press against to aid in building abdominal pressure and a rigid torso which is what helps to protect the back. Most flimsy belts you see in commercial gyms are useless.

The two most common thickness belts are a 10mm (That's what I use) and a 13mm. It's a personal preference thing but I'd venture to say most average lifters would be fine with 10mm. My belt has the flesh side exposed on both sides although I've seen plenty of belts with the smooth side on outside of the belt and flesh on the inside.

For some more reference here is a link to the belt I use:

http://www.inzernet.com/detail_belt.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FOREVERBELTS_BUCKLE10MM

 

Thanks for the reply and I too agree on the true purpose of the belt.  I have gotten familiar with many of the more respected belt makers in the mass produced world.  It seems the bulk of them are using sole leather in varying thicknesses and suede on the inside and outside.  I think the suede is simply to get a vibrant color that gives it some pop while it would give a certain amount of grip on the inside.

I appreciate your reply.

[Firewalker]

On 3/26/2018 at 10:35 AM, JLSleather said:

Actually, that's not "flesh side out" -- that's somebody selling you SPLIT leather (the grain is gone).  It's cheaper, so their margin is higher.  Each person does his / her own thing - no matter to me -  but anybody says he can alter 1/4" of leather by flexing his abs (with weight or without) is WAY 'full of it'.  

I don't know how a belt would "slide" or "move around" either, long as we're on that.  A belt - once tightened - could only possibly move to a part of the body which is SMALLER than where it is put on.  So the only person who would have a belt MOVING on them, would be the one whose waist is larger than the area above or below it.

I did decide to follow your recommendation on the bridle inside and veg tan outside so I can tool it.  It will be a very basic tooling but one that is important to him.  The scenario you describe with it moving will be possible in this particular build.  I was able to convince them of doing a 5" back and it will be 3" on sides and front.  

On the coloring I am shooting for Michigan colors Navy and Maize.  I have a eco flo dye that is amazing in color but I am about over using water based dyes.  I didn't see it available in the fiebings pro dyes and don't think it would be smart to use water based dye in a sweaty situation.  Do you know of anything that will permanently lock in the color of water based and prevent it from rubbing off on clothes?  That guitar strap gave me a run for the money trying to get that figured out.  

Thanks again for the interest.

Scott