Juki 1508 leather tips

[medion]

Hi all,

I have a Juki 1508 (1508NH specifically) that I am now experimenting with for production wallet sewing. This machine, along with my others, have primarily been used for canvas work and I'm very inexperienced with leather sewing. I pulled out some leather scraps yesterday and now understand it's going to be quite a bit of fiddling to get a nice finish! I was hoping I could get some advice on some immediate issues - I have no access to a machine mechanic because of where I live unfortunately, however this machine will be dedicated to this one task, so it can be tweaked for its purpose.

1. The presser foot & feed dog are leaving tracks along my leather. Can the presser foot be replaced with something made of nylon? Are there special 'leather feed dogs' which have less aggressive teeth, or is it all about tension and adjustment?
2. I'd like to use M20 nylon bonded thread - what is a leather point needle recommendation for this thread size?
3. I need to slow the machine right down (clutch motor) - is a smaller pulley the way to go or must I get one of the more specific speed reducing pulleys which also gear the machine for torque? The Nick-O Sew dual speed reducers on eBay are nice, but after USD conversion and shipping to Australia it's an expensive bit of gear.

Thanks so much!

-m

[CowboyBob]

You can loosen the pressure on the foot & buff(sand) the feed dog,a smaller pulley will help slow it down.Here's a needle & thread charthttp://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

[medion]

9 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

You can loosen the pressure on the foot & buff(sand) the feed dog,a smaller pulley will help slow it down.Here's a needle & thread charthttp://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Thanks, I will try re-adjusting the foot and buy another feed dog to sand down.

Regarding thread size on your chart, I have a lot of 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] - is this strong enough for wallets or should I move up to my original idea of 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] ?

[Wizcrafts]

44 minutes ago, medion said:

Thanks, I will try re-adjusting the foot and buy another feed dog to sand down.

Regarding thread size on your chart, I have a lot of 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] - is this strong enough for wallets or should I move up to my original idea of 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] ?

I use #69 for wallet interiors and then #92, or possibly #138, to combine them with the back (depending on total thickness). Since most of my wallets are as thin as possible, #92 thread is large enough to sew the back to the interior. I would say to try it with #92, using a #19 needle.

[dfrensdorff]

I have the exact model Juki, and sew everything from wallets & belts to chaps, chinks, and Dopp kits. I also go from waxed canvas to leather with minor adjustments. 92 thread is what I use most for wallets, but it is easy to go from 92-138 thread. As you know, you’ve got a great machine there. Get needles from Bob at Toledo ..... good luck!

[medion]

51 minutes ago, dfrensdorff said:

I have the exact model Juki, and sew everything from wallets & belts to chaps, chinks, and Dopp kits. I also go from waxed canvas to leather with minor adjustments. 92 thread is what I use most for wallets, but it is easy to go from 92-138 thread. As you know, you’ve got a great machine there. Get needles from Bob at Toledo ..... good luck!

Ohhh, please tell me what changes you've made to your machine since we have the same one! I've tried loosening off the presser foot just now, and I'm still having a track issue, particularly on the shiny side. Did you do the aforementioned sanding mod on the feed dog? 

[AdamPCain]

Love this forum I have a Juki 1541s and just started to use canvas with leather for bags.  I haven't had to really make any adjustments besides a couple clicks on the tension.  Love to see your work when you get everything dialed in, it sure is a learning experience.  Especially finding that right needle going in between different leathers. Maybe it's just me I get better results with different needles on the backside depending on the type of leather. I have tons to learn and just reading other peoples questions have helped me.

[CowboyBob]

11 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I use #69 for wallet interiors and then #92, or possibly #138, to combine them with the back (depending on total thickness). Since most of my wallets are as thin as possible, #92 thread is large enough to sew the back to the interior. I would say to try it with #92, using a #19 needle.

Wiz,I hate to hijack this thread but since needles came up I been meaning to ask how you like those 135x16 S points I sent you? I think the stich would look real nice on wallets?

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

Wiz,I hate to hijack this thread but since needles came up I been meaning to ask how you like those 135x16 S points I sent you? I think the stitch would look real nice on wallets?

I am using them in our 111w103 and they work perfectly. the stitch line is good and tight with a slight offset. I may also try them in one of my patchers, although those top feed machines really need titanium coated needles to counteract leather tape, contact cement and the inevitable lifting of soft leather and vinyl items I need to sew.

For those who don't own a patcher these statements may seem curious. The machines called patchers are fed by the presser foot alone, which can be rotated through 360 degrees. There is a sometimes significant gap between the legs on the foot and a centered needle. Since there is nothing pressing down directly around the needle, soft materials and leather pucker as the needle makes its upward jog to form the loop for the hook to pick off. When the leather (material) puckers upwards the loop can decrease in size, often leading to skipped stitches. Counteracting this lifting/skipping problem is an ongoing fight for some patcher owners.

As a rule, these machines sew more reliably into stiff leather than chap or garment leather. The saving grace when sewing on embroidered patches is the stiffness of the patch. This stabilizes the soft leather and lining in the vest or jacket and usually prevents skipped stitches.

One can also counteract the lifting tendency by keeping liquid silicon in the wax pot that is usually present on the top of the patcher's body. Just make sure there is felt inside the pot, with holes punched to clear excess lube off the outgoing threads.

[dfrensdorff]

Medion...... I do have the smooth presser door and walking foot as well. I do recommend you get those, or sand/carefully grind what you have. They are relatively inexpensive from Toledo Sewing. Even so, you still may get some foot marks, but in my experience, nothing that a bone creaser can’t smooth out. Keep messing with your foot pressure. 

[medion]

5 hours ago, dfrensdorff said:

Medion...... I do have the smooth presser door and walking foot as well. I do recommend you get those, or sand/carefully grind what you have. They are relatively inexpensive from Toledo Sewing. Even so, you still may get some foot marks, but in my experience, nothing that a bone creaser can’t smooth out. Keep messing with your foot pressure. 

Cheers - sorry to be a pain, but are you able to show me a link to the bits you changed on your machine?

[brmax]

I believe the standard factory presser feet ( both ) are or have smooth surfaces that contact the fabric or materials. 

These can be obtained from one of the Juki dealers here that contribute on the site. They may have options that can also be of interest. 

Im not sure if a smooth feed dog can be had, though its been mentioned on the site a few years ago.

 

Good day

Floyd

 

[dfrensdorff]

On 4/18/2018 at 3:42 PM, medion said:

Cheers - sorry to be a pain, but are you able to show me a link to the bits you changed on your machine?

Call Bob at Toledo Sewing  he will set you up ..... http://www.tolindsewmach.com/

[AdamPCain]

I have bought some smooth bottom inner feet, but every third party foot is very thin in the width.  The OEM one from Juki is very expensive but I like the size of the foot print. Anyone know of a third party that sells the inner foot with the same width of Juki's?

[brmax]

Hey its before coffee time here, So what is that wish width to be? For a presser foot with the needle hole.

Here the width runs a consistant .24?” using a cheap vernier digital caliper. 

 

Good day

Floyd

Edited April 23, 2018 by brmax

[AdamPCain]

Not sure off hand I will have yo look latet.

[AdamPCain]

14 hours ago, brmax said:

Hey its before coffee time here, So what is that wish width to be? For a presser foot with the needle hole.

Here the width runs a consistant .24?” using a cheap vernier digital caliper. 

 

Good day

Floyd

The factory inner foot does measure .240 and every third party foot measures .187 it's not much of a difference. But it does help having the bigger foot print to make my own open toe presser foot.  You know of a any cheap inner feet with the .240 size with a smooth bottom.

[MG513]

On 4/18/2018 at 7:59 PM, brmax said:

I believe the standard factory presser feet ( both ) are or have smooth surfaces that contact the fabric or materials. 

These can be obtained from one of the Juki dealers here that contribute on the site. They may have options that can also be of interest. 

Im not sure if a smooth feed dog can be had, though its been mentioned on the site a few years ago.

 

Good day

Floyd

 

Thx for posting this, I hope this guy still has access to this dog!