antique finish HELP I can't get a smooth result with Fiebings Antique Finish (Medium brown)

[IrisLH]

Dear leatherworkers,

I'm fairly new to leatherworking and it's a hobby to me. I love the effect of Fiebings Antique Finish and I have two small pots of it: The "tan" and "medium brown" colours. I've already learned through some trial and error and browsing online that you're supposed to put a lot of the stuff on and then wipe it off. I noticed it kind of 'seals' the leather. Once the first amount is on, you can put on as much as you want after and it doesn't make a difference. The leather won't take more of it. And so I've learned to use a dauber to put plenty on in a circular motion and then wipe it off. When I do this with the 'tan' colour, it works fine. I get a really smooth one-colour result. Some small imperfections of course, but I'm satisfied. Now with the "medium brown" I just don't seem to be able to get this result and it is driving me crazy. Every motion I made with the dauber is visible. I kind of looks like clouds, which is not what I intend. What am I doing wrong?? Please help . I've added a picture to shown the effect I'm talking about. Don't mind the dyed part around the cut-out in the piece, that's from another project ;).

Kind regards,

Iris

[Rockoboy]

Following this post because for any thing I do know about dyes and finishing, I realise there is so much I don't know.

I usually find that I have to remove (and or even out) the excess very quickly. If I am doing a larger piece, like a belt, I work in shorter areas about 8 - 10 inches long and double up over the joins to even out the coverage.

[garypl]

I would dampen the leather first then apply the dye.

Gary

[Rockoboy]

41 minutes ago, garypl said:

I would dampen the leather first then apply the dye.

When you say dye, in this case do you mean antique? I think there is there a difference between dye and antique, right?

[Bonecross]

There are different ways to use antiques, but usually they are useful to get into crevices. (you wipe off the raised areas so it stays in the tooling). I do however love doing a base of light brown dye then once dry I'll pass over the entire surface with mahogany antiquing paste.

The application method is important, and so is removing the surplus almost immediately. So you can highlight tooling and natural flaws in the leather with it, or sort of "tint" the leather.

If you are expecting it to act like a penetrating dye, you might be better off with liquid dye. I also want to note that each time I use a black antiquing paste, it streaks like you show.

Edited June 8, 2018 by Bonecross

[garypl]

35 minutes ago, Rockoboy said:

When you say dye, in this case do you mean antique? I think there is there a difference between dye and antique, right?

Brian, I meant antique.  Regardless of whether I am using ware based dye or antique, unless I am spraying dye, which is how I usually do it, I wet the leather first.  Seems to be less streaky.  Spraying pretty much eliminates the problem.

Gary

[Rockoboy]

I am guessing it depends on which dye or antique is used, oil or alcohol or water based, but I have seen some recommendations on leatherworker.net for using NFO before dye is applied. Is this supposed to assist with penetration and/or even coverage, or have I entirely missed the point of the exercise?

*The reason I ask is because I have a project on my bench right now, that I especially want, a good finish on and I am flying blind at the moment. There is a definite possibility of more work and/or a good recommendation from the same customer.

[garypl]

8 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

I am guessing it depends on which dye or antique is used, oil or alcohol or water based, but I have seen some recommendations on leatherworker.net for using NFO before dye is applied. Is this supposed to assist with penetration and/or even coverage, or have I entirely missed the point of the exercise?

*The reason I ask is because I have a project on my bench right now, that I especially want, a good finish on and I am flying blind at the moment. There is a definite possibility of more work and/or a good recommendation from the same customer.

Brian, I normally dye first and then use NFO because dyeing seems to stiffen the leather.  Never tried using NFO before dyeing, but I have read posts here that say others do use NFO first and even mix dyes with the NFO.  Guess trying on some scrap leather would be a good exercise!

Gary

[Mark842]

I do a bunch of antique using Fiebings. What I have learned along the way..

Throw out the dauber. Put on a cheap set of surgical rubber gloves and finger paint.

You have to be fast. The larger the area your trying to antique at once the faster you need to be for the initial cover.

I keep me a pile of t-shirt material rags in 6" squares on my dying table. Going against product instructions, I don my gloves and pour a healthy amount of antique right on the leather. This is where you have to be fast! If you letter it sit for even a few seconds you will see a stain ring outlining where you poured it on. Spread the antique out completely covering the leather as quick as possible. After you have the surface covered you can massage it in by hand making sure you have even coverage and getting the amount you desire into whatever design you have tooled or stamped. Then I use the T-shirt rag. I wrap it once around my index finger. I've found if I just ball up the rag it allows it to go down into the tooling and takes the antique out, so single layer rag over one finger and I wipe the same direction across the design side to side. After most of the extra antique has been wiped off I work in circular motions on the non tooled areas to get a nice smooth mellow finish. For the your mileage may vary thoughts...some people like to antique with the leather damp. i feel my method gets far better color and results when the leather is dry. After a few hours and hand buff the product to a mellow shine and seal it.

[fredk]

When I use 'antique' I

a/ use a sponge, a damp sponge is best, to apply

b/ I wet the leather; more than damp, but not as much as needed for carving/stamping

c/ work fast, really fast

d/ have a pad of clean kitchen paper ready for wiping off the excess