Softening Herman Oak Skirting

[Silverd]

Hi

I purchased my first Herman OAK un-died Skirting Hide and am planning to start making a set of turnout halters for an equine rescue facility that lost tack in the firesults of So Ca last year.  I'm just getting into bridle making and will be donating my first run work to their facility that also trains under pribliged children in all things horses.

My question to the group: What should I treat the straps with to soften them?  I understand that skirting leather is tanned to facilitate being loaded with oil and wax which makes it resistant to weather and that some folks apply hot.  The fibers loosen but don't stretch if done correctly...that' what I want!

Thank you in advance for any information that might be provided going forward.

Silverd

[Silverd]

Hi

I purchased my first Herman OAK un-died Skirting Hide and am planning to start making a set of turnout halters for an equine rescue facility that lost tack in the fires of So Ca last year.  I'm just getting into bridle making and will be donating my first run work to their facility that also trains under pribliged children in all things horses.

My question to the group: What should I treat the straps with to soften them?  I understand that skirting leather is tanned to facilitate being loaded with oil and wax which makes it resistant to weather and that some folks apply oil or wax or both hot.  The fibers loosen but don't stretch if done correctly...that's what I want!  What exactly is the best type of oil wax combination to use?

Thank you in advance for any information that might be provided going forward.

Silverd

Edited June 17, 2018 by Silverd
Word spell

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I would have bought bridle or harness leather for this project, but since you have the skirting now, you can make it work.  Don't treat it before you work it up.  You'll need to wet it to make your folds, so do that and build your halters, and then when it dries, I would dip in neatsfoot oil.  After  a few days when the oil has migrated throughout the fibers, I would treat with more of a wax/tallow/grease type dressing. Turnout halters are highly abused pieces of equipment, and the more water resistant you can make them, the longer they will last.

[JLSleather]

2 hours ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

I would have bought bridle or harness leather for this project,

I'm glad to see BSS reply to this issue.  I was thinking the same thing, but chose to defer to superior knowledge 

 

[Silverd]

Thank you both.

 I understood at the time of purchase from Goligher Leather in Ventura Ca that buying Pre died and conditioned bridle leather would have been easier but choose my current path so as to gain additional first hand experience of the craft....which you will have helped me accomplish. I wanted to go through the process at least once.  The nuance of using a little water as a temporary softener really connected the dots for me.  I've done a bit of Veg Tan molding so this totally makes sense! 

Carlos at Goligher suggested using a crock pot to warm the oil so yesterday I brought in a thrift store buy and will test the complete process before applying to my finished straps.  I have another queston re machine sewing bridle nose strap.  My first attempt was a total fail!   I'll post specifics and photo later if interested.

Thank you so much again for the advise on the oiling process. 

Silverd 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

7 hours ago, Silverd said:

Thank you so much again for the advise on the oiling process. 

You're welcome. 

7 hours ago, Silverd said:

 I have another queston re machine sewing bridle nose strap.  My first attempt was a total fail!   I'll post specifics and photo later if interested.

Yes, please do, I am curious.

[Silverd]

I'l see if I can post a photo...very difficult this site...fussy!

Ok...  It stuck.

This belt loop is wrapped around a 5/8 wide bridle strap...so not very big.  Wow...what kind of machine do I need to buy so I can sew one.  Really impressive work these bridle people.  

 

I have another one for you.

The nose strap on many bridles have a cool hump section.  How is this sewn together.  I've made one by skiving strips of leather and got it to look very nice all glued up...sewing it was a disaster.  I think it calls for a custom presser foot that will accommodate the hump radii.  My 441 (Chinese) with 7/8" would just fit it.  But I couldn't roller guide it well enough or place the stitch line accurately to call it even close to good.  What do you think?  Over my head?  BTW.  Skirting Test straps are soaking in neadsfoot oil now.

Thanks in advance

Silverd

[Chain]

Ge-Wy Leather Dressing

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

7 hours ago, Silverd said:

I'l see if I can post a photo...very difficult this site...fussy!

Ok...  It stuck.

This belt loop is wrapped around a 5/8 wide bridle strap...so not very big.  Wow...what kind of machine do I need to buy so I can sew one.  Really impressive work these bridle people.  

 

I have another one for you.

The nose strap on many bridles have a cool hump section.  How is this sewn together.  I've made one by skiving strips of leather and got it to look very nice all glued up...sewing it was a disaster.  I think it calls for a custom presser foot that will accommodate the hump radii.  My 441 (Chinese) with 7/8" would just fit it.  But I couldn't roller guide it well enough or place the stitch line accurately to call it even close to good.  What do you think?  Over my head?  BTW.  Skirting Test straps are soaking in neadsfoot oil now.

Thanks in advance

Silverd

The running loops are handsewn BEFORE they are placed on the strap.  I've seen 3/8" and even 1/4" English bridle work, and let me tell you, it is tedious, fussy work.  I just finished one with 1/2" cheeks.  I avoid English work if at all possible. . . I get way more time in it than I can charge for in this part of the country.

The raised noseband can be sewn by machine, but a 441 is not ideal.  There are definitely special feet and throat plates for machines such as the Campbell/Randall for work of this type.  This kind of work is fairly advanced work, and a lot of what you are going to see for repairs will likely be cheap, Asian imports that didn't cost $50 when new.  That stuff you can't afford to work on.  Quality bridle work of this type runs into the many hundreds of $$, and it is not something learned and perfected quickly.

Incidentally, I have found the roller guide on the 441 to be next to worthless.  For it to actually work as a guide, you have to sew so far in from the edge, that on fine work, you're sewing down the middle of the strap.  Learn to sew without it.  I very rarely use a work guide on any of my machines. About the only time is when I'm sewing rounds, and that is more to keep the filler pushed tight into the round than anything.  Sometimes I'll set one for sewing harness tugs, but not always.

[Silverd]

Hummmm...not liking what I'm hearing, but I understand what you are saying.  I'd be better off making western tack, certainly to start with.  My first equine product effort I'm planning are the Turn Out haulters for the local Charity. They appear very makable with equipment and skill set I currently have.  I also ordered the book Bridlework, by Robert Steinke.  Any good do you know?  I'll reassess the English bridle work activity going forward as you recommend.

Silverd