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Posted

Hi All,

I've been experiencing a frustrating issue with the last couple of projects I've tried to antique. I've been using the following process: tooling, oiling, 1st coat of 50:50 water/ resolene, 2nd coat 50:50 water/resolene, apply fiebings antique paste, work in and wipe of excess. The problem I'm having is the antique seems to be penetrating the resolene and causing uneven colouring. Should I add more resist prior to antiquing? Any other thoughts?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted (edited)

Try Super Shene instead. It seems, it has better blocking against antique gel compared to resolene.

P.S. Another good choice for antique paste is Tan-Kote. But Super Shene seems to be better.

 

Edited by AlexFJ
  • Moderator
Posted

Your best option is to switch to Fiebing's paste antique.  I never combine a water based resist with a water based antique.  My go to combo is Bee Natural RTC and Paste antique.   It never penetrates the resist and you only have to wait 10-15 minutes.  None of this 24 hours BS.

 

Learnleather.com

  • Members
Posted
6 hours ago, immiketoo said:

Your best option is to switch to Fiebing's paste antique.  I never combine a water based resist with a water based antique.  My go to combo is Bee Natural RTC and Paste antique.   It never penetrates the resist and you only have to wait 10-15 minutes.  None of this 24 hours BS.

I am confused:  I thought the OP was using Fiebing's paste antique?  I never had any luck with the Resolene approach either.  Tried Bee RTC, it was better but still I wasn't happy.  In fact I have probably tried more than a dozen different combinations of resists, number of coats, reduced resists, different brands/types of antiques, highlighters, etc.  In fact yesterday for the first time I tried Fiebing's highlighter, over TanKote with so so results.  Sad thing is I've done so many different versions I don't remember which one looked the best!  I have however had some luck applying Tan Kote 50/50 water with two coats (wait like 4 hours between coats) and do the antique the next day.  I think this was Chief's technique.  Still, I manage to screw that up on occasion as well.

Tried the Fiebing's Pro Resist a few month's ago, it was like 100% resist, the antique all wiped off, like I hadn't even used any.  No penetration at all, but also no antique in the tooled impressions or cut marks.

YinTx

  • Moderator
Posted

My mistake.  I could ha sworn I read gel antique.  That stuff penetrates most finishes unless you apply so many coats that it looks shiny and plasticky.  I've never had a problem with RTC and past antique.

 

Learnleather.com

  • Moderator
Posted

Ah HA!  It's in the title.  Antique gel.  Not the same as gel antique I guess.  I knew I wasn't crazy!

 

Learnleather.com

  • Contributing Member
Posted

a/ I never use resolene before using 'antique'

b/ its supposed to be uneven - its supposed to give the leather a 'used' look. For an even coverage use a dye

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • Members
Posted
52 minutes ago, immiketoo said:

My mistake.  I could ha sworn I read gel antique.  That stuff penetrates most finishes unless you apply so many coats that it looks shiny and plasticky.  I've never had a problem with RTC and past antique.

Astute, to be sure.  I missed that part.  I've had decent luck with 2 coats 50/50 TanKote then the gel antique from Tandy.  I only have one bottle of the Mahogany.  Also seemed to do ok with the Pro Resist, but I had to be very careful not to let the pro resist get where I wanted the antique to be, which is a challenge on basketweave.  This is what I did on the basket weave section of the rifle sling I made, if I recall correctly.  The rest was 50/50 TanKote, so you can see the difference in penetration.  No TanKote, and the leather turns almost black with that antique.

YinTx

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