Bleed-proof dye job

[Davm]

I've made quite a few leather holsters and sheaths.  If it is for "show" I'll go ahead and dye the leather but so far the dye always leaks or bleeds if the leather gets wet.  I've asked a lot of knowledgeable leather workers who always give the same answers but I don't think they comprehend what I'm talking about.  There is having a leather item subjected to a light rain and then there is the "wear every day" knife sheath that gets totally soaked many times and dries while you wear it.  So far all I have come up with is a 50/50 wax/neatsfoot oil- which is okay however if I could get a chocolate brown that stood up as well- that would be nice.   All help appreciated.

[Clintock]

I spray resolene on everything that leaves. Dilute it 50/50 with water and do a light spray. Wait till it dries and do another light spray. And if I know it’s gonna be subjected to water like a rifle sling I will spray it 3 times. Light coats are always better than 1 heavy coat. That’s just me and by no means a professional but that seems to work so far. 

[alpha2]

Yep, at least 3 light coats of Resolene, 50/50. FIRST you have to buff all excess dye off.

Jeff

[NVLeatherWorx]

The dyes that you are using will also determine how much buffing you will need to do and what sealing/top coat method and process you will need to follow.  No dye/stain is made the same way as another so each one will have a different requirement to make sure that you get all of the excess pigment off of the leather before you move on to the sealing process.  I, for example, use the Fiebing's Pro Dye line and have done so since they added it to their line.  I apply my dye while there is still some moisture in the leather so that it will pull into the fibers as the water evaporates; this also helps with the leather curling up on the edges with the thinner weights.  Once it is set (8 to 12 hours) I buff it with old denim rags to ensure that I grab as much remaining residue as possible.  I will then dampen a clean denim rag and buff again to pick up any remaining "pigment dust" (as I call it) and let it dry off (takes about 30 minutes is all as long as you didn't wet the leather).  I will give it another buff with a cotton cloth just to make sure that there is no more residue.  Once I can buff it with a white cloth and not see any "rub off" I then move on to my oil application, followed by top coat after the oil has set (again, 8 hours at least to make sure that it has actually penetrated and there is no surface "slick" left behind).  I have been doing it this way for years and have never had a bleed issue with it yet.

[Davm]

Thanks for the help.  What exact Fiebing's dye do you use? On the oil- straight neatsfoot?  The top coat- what do you use?

    The buffing- I have not done that, maybe that is the source of my trouble.  Thanks again.

[Clintock]

I use pro dye by fiebings. Then a light coat of fiebings neatsfoot. Buff it. The fiebings resolene for topcoat. Mixed 50/50 with water and spray with airbrush.  

[Davm]

Thanks

[alpha2]

On 9/10/2018 at 9:02 AM, Davm said:

Thanks for the help.  What exact Fiebing's dye do you use? On the oil- straight neatsfoot?  The top coat- what do you use?

    The buffing- I have not done that, maybe that is the source of my trouble.  Thanks again.

Yes, the buffing is key. You can't buff too much. When the dye soaks into the leather, it leaves some pigment on the surface. If you think about it, when you put a topcoat over that pigment, you're just adding pigment to the topcoat!

[NVLeatherWorx]

On 9/10/2018 at 8:02 AM, Davm said:

Thanks for the help.  What exact Fiebing's dye do you use? On the oil- straight neatsfoot?  The top coat- what do you use?

    The buffing- I have not done that, maybe that is the source of my trouble.  Thanks again.

Pro Dye, Pure Neatsfoot Oil (not that Compound crap), and my sealer of choice is my own blend that I make right here in the shop; all pure and natural ingredients without all of those "essential" oils that just stink the place up and make leather nasty.

[ScoobyNewbie]

Is your recipe personal? Or can we have it? I really don’t like harsh smells. I would love a sealer that smells nice.

[NVLeatherWorx]

On 9/11/2018 at 7:24 PM, ScoobyNewbie said:

Is your recipe personal? Or can we have it? I really don’t like harsh smells. I would love a sealer that smells nice.

There isn't really anything personal about the blend.  I use natural beeswax (it has been heavily filtered to get all of the junk out but is as pure as it can be, and without all the smoke smell), Pure Neatsfoot Oil (no compound garbage), and Pure Cocoa Butter; the trick is to get the right ratios so you have a finished product that has the same consistency as lip balm.  In fact, I have one local leather craftsman that uses my sealer as his Mustache wax for the "handle bars", he loves it. It doesn't have a honey smell or any other smell for that matter but it does bring out the natural aroma of the leather, especially if it is a true Oak tan leather; you get the real leather smell without all of that "perfume" smell to cover up the stench of a lesser tanning solutions.

[ScoobyNewbie]

Thank you very much. I well try to put some together this next weekend. I actually have all that stuff!

[NVLeatherWorx]

19 hours ago, ScoobyNewbie said:

Thank you very much. I well try to put some together this next weekend. I actually have all that stuff!

Here is where I go with it:  Oil - 50%, Beeswax - 30%, Cocoa Butter - 20%; you can dabble with it and come up with whatever you find feels best to you.  I always take a piece of unfinished veg-tan with me and when someone asks about the conditioner I apply some and then buff it off after a few minutes (like to let the oil soak in and beeswax to firm up first).  Then I take and put a drop of water on the leather and let it sit there.  I leave it there for a couple of hours and everyone else that sees it gets that spark in their eye that they just have to get some of that stuff.  Now, you need to be very clear that this in no way will permanently waterproof the leather; nothing really will regardless of the claims and published information; it does doe very well at repelling water for a very extended time though and that is the key.

Good luck and have some fun with it.  If you get into the business of packaging and selling you can find the perfect tins (that is what I use) on Amazon.  I have 1/2 oz. tins that I give away on all sales over $90, 1 oz., 2 oz., and 4 oz. tins that I sell.  The 1/2 oz. tin alone will last a couple of years, maybe 4 (depending on the number of leather items that it is used on of course).  It doesn't take much to work but you will learn that shortly.

[ScoobyNewbie]

[koreric75]

13 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

Here is where I go with it:  Oil - 50%, Beeswax - 30%, Cocoa Butter - 20%; you can dabble with it and come up with whatever you find feels best to you.  I always take a piece of unfinished veg-tan with me and when someone asks about the conditioner I apply some and then buff it off after a few minutes (like to let the oil soak in and beeswax to firm up first).  Then I take and put a drop of water on the leather and let it sit there.  I leave it there for a couple of hours and everyone else that sees it gets that spark in their eye that they just have to get some of that stuff.  Now, you need to be very clear that this in no way will permanently waterproof the leather; nothing really will regardless of the claims and published information; it does doe very well at repelling water for a very extended time though and that is the key.

Good luck and have some fun with it.  If you get into the business of packaging and selling you can find the perfect tins (that is what I use) on Amazon.  I have 1/2 oz. tins that I give away on all sales over $90, 1 oz., 2 oz., and 4 oz. tins that I sell.  The 1/2 oz. tin alone will last a couple of years, maybe 4 (depending on the number of leather items that it is used on of course).  It doesn't take much to work but you will learn that shortly.

That is awesome, one couldn't ask for more, even with the containers...I will look into this as i've found some projects need something other than the resolene although i use this most with the airbrush.  I need to learn more patience and let the dyed project set overnight and rebuff before spraying though...lol

[NVLeatherWorx]

3 hours ago, koreric75 said:

That is awesome, one couldn't ask for more, even with the containers...I will look into this as i've found some projects need something other than the resolene although i use this most with the airbrush.  I need to learn more patience and let the dyed project set overnight and rebuff before spraying though...lol

"Patience comes to those who wait" - Probably one of the most "duh" moments in the writers life was when they penned that little tidbit of wisdom.  Patience is something that we can all learn to be better at in this trade regardless of how long you have been doing it.  Of course, we also know that patience is a virtue but I am not one who is very virtuous.  

On the conditioner, you can also apply it a bit thicker for the initial application and then use a standard blow dryer on a medium heat setting to "melt" it into the leather; still let it sit for a bit before you buff it out though and, if need be, you can apply another coating as normal to give it that rich look.  I have found that my end finish looks almost identical to what a Resolene finish would give you, not overly shiny but it has a nice "glow" to it.