Leather edge finishing from the professionals with an sander

[RusticLeatherShop]

26 minutes ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

a great product is one that has been carefully designed and methodically produced to give the user years of useful service

That's exactly what RusticLeatherShop is all about. That's called "overengineering".

If it's for durability, I'll beat 'ya 'all!

I am convinced my products will outlast any other brand and design, simply because they are overengineered.

[Sheilajeanne]

The nylon webbing is ugly, unevenly sewn and has a rough, raveling piece at the end. I took 2 years of Home Ec. in junior High. That edge binding would get a failing grade from my Home Ec. teacher!

A nice, burnished edge on leatherwork is professional and pleasing to look at.

Jeez, have you NO desire to improve your work?

Guess not...

[RusticLeatherShop]

1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said:

The nylon webbing is ugly, unevenly sewn and has a rough, raveling piece at the end. I took 2 years of Home Ec. in junior High. That edge binding would get a failing grade from my Home Ec. teacher!

A nice, burnished edge on leatherwork is professional and pleasing to look at.

Jeez, have you NO desire to improve your work?

Guess not...

Ok. The nylon webbing on their edges are finished with a lighter. Simply burned off to seal the ends.

How else could I finish it better off?

Yes I am eager to improve...

[NVLeatherWorx]

19 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

NV, just wanted to say I appreciate the constructive criticism you tried to give this guy in your post above, even if HE doesn't! 

I thank you very much, this is what these forums are supposed to be all about and yet we tend to collect those low-skilled, non-thinkers, who feel that they are capable of competing with us.  This is the perfect candidate for a Darwin Award.

[RusticLeatherShop]

Regards the SPI (stitch count per inch) that's a practice over here with tailors who use Brother sewing machines for fabric or embroidery. Those machines have built in stitch counters. SPI counting is easy: measure 1 inch and the thread you see on top counts 1 stitch. There is a youtube video about that. It would be a viable option. Thread size is irrelevant since that cost can be neglected. Obviously over here I am not gonna pay any bill from this.

The binder edges I may have to burn off to seal them and then fold them over underneath to make a nice edge. That idea came me from the closed thread. That would improve things and make look the finish better.

Regards durability, I would want to find out in an contest, since I am sure my products would last the longest. I will try to make the finish and appearance better (specially the endings of the bindings). But overall the binding process makes for and double strength product which is hard to beat regards ruggedness and durability since I am already using full grain pig leather instead of split genuine leather. I have yet to be able to rip the full grain pig leather apart. The thread is not going to fail whatsever since the  binder adds to an second layer of thread for a total of (2 x #138 bonded nylon thread) #276 thread strength (basically equal to 1 layer of #277 bonded nylon thread). But for a way cleaner and better look.

[Sheilajeanne]

Yes, the usual way to deal with the edges of nylon binding (or any type of binding) is to sew them into the end of your seam. If the binding is leather, it has to be skived very thin at the end to reduce the bulk . Also, when going around curves, slits need to be cut in the binding to keep it from bunching up. This means the binding needs to be glued as well as stitched, to prevent raveling.

Edited September 23, 2018 by Sheilajeanne

[battlemunky]

Please see the attached image and then also please don't speak as if you are an expert when it is clear you are very ignorant. You are using a lockstitch. Saddle stitching is ridiculously stronger than lockstitches. Try and learn before exerting "pride" in place of wisdom.

[battlemunky]

10 minutes ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

But overall the binding process makes for and double strength product which is hard to beat regards ruggedness and durability since I am already using full grain pig leather instead of split genuine leather. I have yet to be able to rip the full grain pig leather apart. The thread is not going to fail whatsever since the  binder adds to an second layer of thread for a total of (2 x #138 bonded nylon thread) #276 thread strength (basically equal to 1 layer of #277 bonded nylon thread). But for a way cleaner and better look.

This is false. The binder is only as strong as the stitch used. Not only are you using a lockstitch but the lockstitches you have presented for criticism thus far have been jumbled and bumbled and for every jumble and bumble there is, that is a weak spot, not stronger because there is more thread present. In the event you find some humility and increase your quality as suggested by everyone here who has commented on everything you've put forward for comment, you may increase your durability to a point that it can last as long as other lockstitched items but properly saddle stitched leather will win every time. You can literally break a saddle stitched item in several spots and it'll maintain it's integrity. Keep in mind also that this is before we've added a drop of cement which will literally destroy your piece if torn apart it bonds so well; adding saddle stitching on top of a properly cemented piece will make it last for decades and maybe even centuries.

You do you though. I know where I'd put my money.

[RusticLeatherShop]

40 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Yes, the usual way to deal with the edges of nylon binding (or any type of binding) is to sew them into the end of your seam. If the binding is leather, it has to be skived very thin at the end to reduce the bulk . Also, when going around curves, slits need to be cut in the binding to keep it from bunching up. This means the binding needs to be glued as well as stitched, to prevent raveling.

yes, I'll try to seal it by sewing it binding it underneath over.

Curves I cant cut the binding since it weakens it and has to be burned to seal. The worst thing one can do with this nylon webbing is to cut it.

Glued and stitch the binder after cutting it on the edges will make a mess IMHO. A receipe for unraveling the binding webbing.

[RusticLeatherShop]

Yes the CB4500 is a lock stitch machine. That's the way I do it.

I have yet to see on heavy used shoes the #92 (or so) thread to break. I use #138 bonded nylon thread. So the thread is not necessarily the weak spot of the piece. The weak spot on shoes (local 9$ shoes) is the leather cracking from bending and humidity. Normally even on used shoes the thread never cracks. Even the sole is breaking away before any thread rips. Just my 2 cents of real life observation.