Juki dcs 246 hook timing

[Zesan]

I have just acquired a juki dcs 246, I got a manual online. The manual says to set the needle height by the mark on the needle shaft. When I do this it is not even close to the hook. Anybody else have a machine like this? Any other reference for setting the hook timing?

 

 

[Uwe]

A link to the manual you're using would be helpful. It's not clear what the manual actually says and what you actually did.

39 minutes ago, Zesan said:

set the needle height by the mark on the needle shaft. When I do this it is not even close to the hook

You'll have to elaborate on that and be more precise in your description. We can't see your machine.

[dikman]

Is the right length needle fitted?

[Zesan]

It does have the right needle. I did find the reference Mark's while trying to take a picture, let me see if I can get it with that. Thanks for the response.

[Zesan]

 I am struggling with this new iPad to copy and paste the link

Edited October 1, 2018 by Zesan
Too big

[Zesan]

[Zesan]

Quote

 

Now that I found the marks, I am not clear where the wheel should be in relation to this. I can put the mark there every time with the wheel but that seems like it would not be adjusted. I took the hook assembly off to clean. So I am resetting everything. In the first picture where should the wheel be as far as say the thread take up lever or is there another reference point to for the “bottom of the cycle”

[Zesan]

[R8R]

I think to set the needle height the hook at least needs to be at least roughly timed? If the hook is advanced or retarded far away from the needle when it's 2.4 mm up from bottom trying to set the final height is kinda pointless.

[R8R]

Just for reference, is this the manual you are looking at?

 

http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_j/download_j/manual_j/dsc240/menu/dsc246,-7/pdf/instruction_eg.pdf

[R8R]

There should be 2 marks on the needle bar. Set the bar to the top mark on the needle bar bushing when it's at the very bottom of it's stroke. Rotate the handwheel so the bar comes up 2.4mm from bottom. This should put the bar at the bottom mark. Loosen the hook and adjust so the very tip of the hook blade is passing center of the needle (looking from the end of the arm, hook rotating CCW) and the hook tip is 1.5mm above the top of the needle eye.

At least, that would be what the manual is stating, and assuming all your parts are original and genuine Juki.

[Zesan]

Yes it is

[Zesan]

Thanks  R8R ill give it a try now at first I couldn’t find the marks I should be good.

 

[Uwe]

You have my sympathies trying to follow those instruction in the manual. Juki generally writes good manuals but this isn't one of them. It reads as if they're deliberately trying to confuse you even if you know what you're doing.

[R8R]

Check out Uwe's timing video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNBPX8i524

It is for a vertical hook design but much of the procedure and sequence applies to timing many machines.

 

And his vids are relaxing, which is good when you want to flip the damn table stand over when the machine is being finicky.

[R8R]

25 minutes ago, Uwe said:

Juki generally writes good manuals but this isn't one of them. It reads as if they're deliberately trying to confuse you even if you know what you're doing.

Yeah all the correct things are there but it's a total syntax error in my brain when I first read it.

I have a Techsew 2600 on order that should be here any time now. I hope their manual is better and not a Juki copy...

[HardenGoods]

3 minutes ago, R8R said:

I have a Techsew 2600 on order that should be here any time now. I hope their manual is better and not a Juki copy...

I had the 2600. The manual (at least the one I received) was indeed a copy of the Juki 246 manual.

[R8R]

31 minutes ago, HardenGoods said:

I had the 2600. The manual (at least the one I received) was indeed a copy of the Juki 246 manual.

Had? How did you like the machine? Can I ask why you don't have it anymore?

[HardenGoods]

17 minutes ago, R8R said:

Had? How did you like the machine? Can I ask why you don't have it anymore?

I'm going to start by saying there is a very good chance you won't have the issues I did. I really don't want to lessen your excitement and expectations of the 2600 by any means. Ron and Mike were both very professional and helpful in regards to my situation.

I had some small qualms with the roughness of the castings and paint job from the get go but it didn't bother me much because the machine was adjusted and timed to sew very well right off of the crate. My trouble came when I noticed my machine making strange grinding noises and would vibrate excessively. As soon as I noticed metal shavings/dust under the machine head (where the oil tray goes), I suspected deeper issues. Normally at this point I would dive in and make a thousand adjustments to get everything just right but the machine was brand new and I didn't feel satisfied for the price I paid... However, I did try changing out the belt, tried changing the motor (to two different servos I had) and double checked all settings via the engineers manual but couldn't narrow down why the machine made grinding noises. Basically, it sounded and felt very off.

I'm hoping your experience is a great one. Also, if you love the machine, I have a flatbed attachment for sale that I picked up from Uwe, and customized it to fit the 2600 perfectly.

 

[R8R]

Thanks for the input.

 

Yikes....that sound was NOT good. Yeah there are some bad apples in every batch, especially with clones I suppose. Good to hear you got it resolved one way or another.

 

This will primarily be for binding operations with light leather and woven nylons. I could not justify dropping $5k on a new Juki 246, as it's a pretty dated design. I definitely don't need the 2342 yet.

I considered going for a used 1341 and trying to track down their binding converter kit but it's back ordered, possibly forever as the 1341 is officially discontinued in the US. (per my local dealer)

So the 2600 seemed like the best choice, as it has a bit of a heavier edge over a 355 or similar machine. I really want the synched binding for tighter corners.

I think I saw that flat bed on eBay. I have the flatbed end of things covered with a 2810, but I will think about it.

[HardenGoods]

1 minute ago, R8R said:

This will primarily be for binding operations with light leather and woven nylons. I could not justify dropping $5k on a new Juki 246, as it's a pretty dated design. I definitely don't need the 2342 yet.

I considered going for a used 1341 and trying to track down their binding converter kit but it's back ordered, possibly forever as the 1341 is officially discontinued in the US. (per my local dealer)

So the 2600 seemed like the best choice, as it has a bit of a heavier edge over a 355 or similar machine. I really want the synched binding for tighter corners.

I think I saw that flat bed on eBay. I have the flatbed end of things covered with a 2810, but I will think about it.

It's a fantastic binding machine for sure - much versatility via attachments. It surprises me that the 1341 is out! The 341 definitely looks its age at this point lol.

A dedicated flatbed machine is of course, even better. How do you like the 2810? That machine looks so damn beautiful.

[R8R]

45 minutes ago, HardenGoods said:

How do you like the 2810? 

I think I want to be buried with it.

[HardenGoods]

12 hours ago, R8R said:

I think I want to be buried with it.

Haha.. good sign. 

[Zesan]

I got a good deal on my juki I am a rookie on a machine. It did need a motor, and a good cleaning. I got that and I had a couple good passes on two layers of 5 oz. Leather. Then things went crazy. I'm now having the thread being caught by the bobbin case.  I think I got the timing close but after watching Uwe's video(THANKs for doing that)  I'll break out some tools and try it again. It is not as easy to see things on my model. One other issue I'm having is the tension seems to not be consistent occasionally it will just lock it up. (I know this could be most of my problem.)

[R8R]

Run down a list of all the basics and make sure you have that covered. Sometimes it's one stupid thing that throws off everything else.

• New needle (correct needle class!)
• Good quality thread
• Clean machine (no thread hung up anywhere in or under the hook, etc)
• Well oiled machine - oil everything, then oil it again. Don't use any old junk oil, use clean, clear sewing machine oil, generously. Wipe off excess.
• Correct needle bar height
• Hook timing
• Smooth, clean, well oiled hook with no scrapes, rough spots or burrs.
• Correct hook/needle gap
• Correct feed dog height - also check the feed dogs for nicks or scrapes or burrs that can hang up thread.
• Foot pressure
• Evenly wound bobbin, not wound up at overly high tension
• Top tension - make sure the inside surfaces of the tension discs are smooth with no grooves or roughness. The thread path from spool to needle eye should be smooth.
• Bobbin case tension