Roger's seat tutorial

[Roger]

ok guys here you go. i would have liked to have taken a few more pics but, needed someone taking them while i worked so here you go start to finish. this is one of the more dificult shape seats i cover.

this is the start of the foam padding. this seat had 7 layers of foam if i remember right. it also has a polymer insert in it. also.. i shape all my seats by hand. i don't like using power tools as they can remove material too quickly

after the foam was done i made a template for the top of the seat.

then the top was cut and the holes were punched and it's ready for tooling

after tooling i cut a piece for the side. cut out the center and layout the holes. you can make the side out of multiple pieces and use much less leather BTW. i have done them both ways.

the cover is then stitched and then the top is glued to the seat and let dry for a bit before starting to mould the rest of the cover.

i then use a spray bottle to wet down the side of the seat being careful not to get the tooling wet

[Roger]

now comes the hard part. i was sore for most of the day today after wrestling with this seat last night.

i make sure to keep the side good and wet during the whole process and find a good starting place and go to it. i don't pre-drill the holes in the pan as i like to put the where i think they are needed as i mount the cover.

i then go back and tackle the hard spots and take care of any puckers.

this is what i end up with. any looseness left in the cover will tighten up as the leather dries out.

that is pretty much my process. i think it took me a good 1 1/2 to 2 hours to mount this cover last night.

any other questions please ask

[freak]

Ah man i hit the wrong key and lost my reply, i'll try again.

When i saw you did a how-to i about pissed myself (nothing new there folks). Dave did a great one and now the beeza is doing one. I know people on other forums have asked you for one for some time now. Thanks for doing it here. Great write up man !!!

Now it time to bug shirleyz for her how-to. LOL !!

[Johanna]

Beezachoppa- It was a real treat to see the process, from beginning to end. I enjoy seeing the work you do, and now I have an even greater respect for your talent. Thanks for sharing with us.

Johanna

[JohnD]

Excellent, Thanks Beeza, For posting that.

I'm scared to death to drill the holes during assembly, because the results could be disastrous (sp?), though I do feel that the fit would be much better that way. I've been meaning to pick up a depth stop but keep forgetting. Great post, Beautiful seat and thanks again.

John

[Don101]

cool thanks for that run through it was very interesting and do keep up the run throughs as we all can pick tips up by seeing the pics great job well done Don

[wolvenstien]

JohnD.... best depth stop I have found is electrical tape... put enough on the bit and it stopps you from going too deep, plus since it is tape, it isnt going to mark or mar your work...

Beeza,

Great walkthrough.

Thanks bro.

[leathernut]

very cool write up roger.my question is how much do you over lap the top over the sides.and do you use 2-3 oz for the sides?

[Beaverslayer]

Roger,

Thanks for the walkthrough, it's great that you took the time to do this. If I may, could I inquire about a few things I saw in the pics?

1. The rasp you use for shaping. What size of holes or grit shall we say is it?

2. You don't use a plastic liner before you lay the leather on? (I have an ongoing (discussion) with someone about the advantages and dis-advantages of a plastic cover before the leather.

3. Have you ever tried an air riveter? I'm telling you I'll never use a hand one again.

Ken

[Roger]

Excellent, Thanks Beeza, For posting that.

I'm scared to death to drill the holes during assembly, because the results could be disastrous (sp?), though I do feel that the fit would be much better that way. I've been meaning to pick up a depth stop but keep forgetting. Great post, Beautiful seat and thanks again.

John

thanks for all the compliments guys!

john,

i use double ended bits made specifically for drill pop rivet holes in sheet metal. i only leave about 1/2" of drill bit sticking out and i drill through a few rivets and leave the flanges on the drill bit so that i only have around 3/8" of the bit exposed

very cool write up roger.my question is how much do you over lap the top over the sides.and do you use 2-3 oz for the sides?

i use 3-4oz for the side and overlap is between 1/4" and 3/8" depending on the look and type of lacing being done

Roger,

Thanks for the walkthrough, it's great that you took the time to do this. If I may, could I inquire about a few things I saw in the pics?

1. The rasp you use for shaping. What size of holes or grit shall we say is it?

2. You don't use a plastic liner before you lay the leather on? (I have an ongoing (discussion) with someone about the advantages and dis-advantages of a plastic cover before the leather.

3. Have you ever tried an air riveter? I'm telling you I'll never use a hand one again.

Ken

ken,

to be honest the rasp was purchased as a unit long ago and i have never replaced the blade. it looks to be the same as the ones used for autobody work. hole are about 1/8"

the only reason i could see to using a plastic liner would be to keep the foam from soaking up water. i use closed cell foam and since it won't absorb water, i see no reason to use plastic.

i have an air riveter but find it more cumbersome to use because of the way i make my seats but, it is a joy to use for sure. it is just easier to pick up and put down the manual gun