Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 ok guys here you go. i would have liked to have taken a few more pics but, needed someone taking them while i worked so here you go start to finish. this is one of the more dificult shape seats i cover. this is the start of the foam padding. this seat had 7 layers of foam if i remember right. it also has a polymer insert in it. also.. i shape all my seats by hand. i don't like using power tools as they can remove material too quickly after the foam was done i made a template for the top of the seat. then the top was cut and the holes were punched and it's ready for tooling after tooling i cut a piece for the side. cut out the center and layout the holes. you can make the side out of multiple pieces and use much less leather BTW. i have done them both ways. the cover is then stitched and then the top is glued to the seat and let dry for a bit before starting to mould the rest of the cover. i then use a spray bottle to wet down the side of the seat being careful not to get the tooling wet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 now comes the hard part. i was sore for most of the day today after wrestling with this seat last night. i make sure to keep the side good and wet during the whole process and find a good starting place and go to it. i don't pre-drill the holes in the pan as i like to put the where i think they are needed as i mount the cover. i then go back and tackle the hard spots and take care of any puckers. this is what i end up with. any looseness left in the cover will tighten up as the leather dries out. that is pretty much my process. i think it took me a good 1 1/2 to 2 hours to mount this cover last night. any other questions please ask Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freak Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Ah man i hit the wrong key and lost my reply, i'll try again. When i saw you did a how-to i about pissed myself (nothing new there folks). Dave did a great one and now the beeza is doing one. I know people on other forums have asked you for one for some time now. Thanks for doing it here. Great write up man !!! Now it time to bug shirleyz for her how-to. LOL !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Beezachoppa- It was a real treat to see the process, from beginning to end. I enjoy seeing the work you do, and now I have an even greater respect for your talent. Thanks for sharing with us. Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Excellent, Thanks Beeza, For posting that. I'm scared to death to drill the holes during assembly, because the results could be disastrous (sp?), though I do feel that the fit would be much better that way. I've been meaning to pick up a depth stop but keep forgetting. Great post, Beautiful seat and thanks again. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don101 Report post Posted July 21, 2007 cool thanks for that run through it was very interesting and do keep up the run throughs as we all can pick tips up by seeing the pics great job well done Don Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted July 21, 2007 JohnD.... best depth stop I have found is electrical tape... put enough on the bit and it stopps you from going too deep, plus since it is tape, it isnt going to mark or mar your work... Beeza, Great walkthrough. Thanks bro. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leathernut Report post Posted July 21, 2007 very cool write up roger.my question is how much do you over lap the top over the sides.and do you use 2-3 oz for the sides? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Roger, Thanks for the walkthrough, it's great that you took the time to do this. If I may, could I inquire about a few things I saw in the pics? 1. The rasp you use for shaping. What size of holes or grit shall we say is it? 2. You don't use a plastic liner before you lay the leather on? (I have an ongoing (discussion) with someone about the advantages and dis-advantages of a plastic cover before the leather. 3. Have you ever tried an air riveter? I'm telling you I'll never use a hand one again. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Excellent, Thanks Beeza, For posting that.I'm scared to death to drill the holes during assembly, because the results could be disastrous (sp?), though I do feel that the fit would be much better that way. I've been meaning to pick up a depth stop but keep forgetting. Great post, Beautiful seat and thanks again. John thanks for all the compliments guys! john, i use double ended bits made specifically for drill pop rivet holes in sheet metal. i only leave about 1/2" of drill bit sticking out and i drill through a few rivets and leave the flanges on the drill bit so that i only have around 3/8" of the bit exposed very cool write up roger.my question is how much do you over lap the top over the sides.and do you use 2-3 oz for the sides? i use 3-4oz for the side and overlap is between 1/4" and 3/8" depending on the look and type of lacing being done Roger,Thanks for the walkthrough, it's great that you took the time to do this. If I may, could I inquire about a few things I saw in the pics? 1. The rasp you use for shaping. What size of holes or grit shall we say is it? 2. You don't use a plastic liner before you lay the leather on? (I have an ongoing (discussion) with someone about the advantages and dis-advantages of a plastic cover before the leather. 3. Have you ever tried an air riveter? I'm telling you I'll never use a hand one again. Ken ken, to be honest the rasp was purchased as a unit long ago and i have never replaced the blade. it looks to be the same as the ones used for autobody work. hole are about 1/8" the only reason i could see to using a plastic liner would be to keep the foam from soaking up water. i use closed cell foam and since it won't absorb water, i see no reason to use plastic. i have an air riveter but find it more cumbersome to use because of the way i make my seats but, it is a joy to use for sure. it is just easier to pick up and put down the manual gun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MatthewD Report post Posted July 21, 2007 That rasp looks like a Stanley Sur Form... you can get them at Home Depot or Lowes and I think that looks like the one I have that says just coarse on the package... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 yes matthew, that is what it is. i have had that one for 10 years at least. here is the completed seat in David's favorite color. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Hey Roger, A very nicely done "walk through".....Great seat too on a very very difficult seat pan shape. There is a write up in the journal this month....It is without a doubt the most confusing article I've read on seat making. I'm sure it is clear once you have done a few dozen of them but your article here is way beyond the one in the journal. Thanks again, Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Thanks David! i'm not much for words.. i think pictures tell the story. there are many little details but, this is basically how i put a seat together. any specific questions just ask Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MatthewD Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Thank you for taking the time to write this up and take some awesome pictures... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freak Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Ok, why is it upside down ? I think it looks great black. When the design is big and shapely i think it still looks good black but,,, it's still hard to determine what will look good in all black until it is. 1--When you cut the hole in the bottom/side piece for the top piece. Do you trace the top piece then where the lace wholes in the top are to determine how much smaller the whole should be compared to the top ? That made since here, did it there ?? 2--Where do you get the foam and how thick is it ? 3--Do you just use a spray on adhesive like 3M to glue them together ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 21, 2007 Ok, why is it upside down ? I think it looks great black. When the design is big and shapely i think it still looks good black but,,, it's still hard to determine what will look good in all black until it is.1--When you cut the hole in the bottom/side piece for the top piece. Do you trace the top piece then where the lace wholes in the top are to determine how much smaller the whole should be compared to the top ? That made since here, did it there ?? 2--Where do you get the foam and how thick is it ? 3--Do you just use a spray on adhesive like 3M to glue them together ? thanks freak! it's upside down because the seat sit at around 45 degrees and the design would actually be upside down if it was carved the other way. 1. look at the pics. the hole is cut first 2. http://www.foamforyou.com 3. no! i only use barge or tanner's bond. they are waterproof Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 22, 2007 just got some pics of the bike this seat is for. you can see the steep angle of the back bone. this is why the design was done facing the rear. i'll have to post a pic once he gets it put on the bike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leathernut Report post Posted July 22, 2007 wow you werent kidding.that is a deep backbone..cool lookin bike,and a badass seat to go with it now.nice job roger... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leathernut Report post Posted July 22, 2007 roger got a quick question.when you lay down the neoprene as the base,do you take the polymer insert cut out the middle and laid it in?and what kind of blue foam do you lay over that.is that like 1/8 thick or so..i got a few customers askin about polymer inserts and havent tried by hand at them yet..how much do the polymer inserts go for?where do you get them.what do you charge for all the foam work is that include in your price..thanks Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 22, 2007 rogergot a quick question.when you lay down the neoprene as the base,do you take the polymer insert cut out the middle and laid it in?and what kind of blue foam do you lay over that.is that like 1/8 thick or so..i got a few customers askin about polymer inserts and havent tried by hand at them yet..how much do the polymer inserts go for?where do you get them.what do you charge for all the foam work is that include in your price..thanks Dan i cut the insert to shape, then cut the seat foam. i use 1/4" over top. cost of the inserts depends on the size. price depends on the size. if i remember right, they start at $50-$60 plus $10 shipping. i include padding in the price. i use http://www.brooklynbuttbuffer.com/ for the inserts. you will need to contact them and let them know you only need the insert. let them know roger from mutha country choppers sent you thier way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ETW Grumpy Report post Posted July 25, 2007 Hey Roger, great tutorial. What size holes/lace are you using and what is the spacing? Is the spacing on the top piece different than the spacing on the side piece(s)/ Cool work, thanks for putting it out there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 25, 2007 Hey Roger, great tutorial. What size holes/lace are you using and what is the spacing? Is the spacing on the top piece different than the spacing on the side piece(s)/ Cool work, thanks for putting it out there. 1/8" roo lace and holes. i space mine around 1/2". i mark the holes in the side to match the top as shown in the pics. the spacing is the same on the straight areas and opens up on the curves. i just mark the hole straight out from the holes in the top Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Justis Cases Report post Posted July 25, 2007 Roger is not only talented on motorcycle seats but did an excellent job for me on one of my cue cases. He was in constant contact during the process and it could not have gone smoother. I look forward to working with Roger on future projects. Great job, Roger, my customer is 100% satisfied! Jack Justis Justis Cases Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Report post Posted July 25, 2007 Roger is not only talented on motorcycle seats but did an excellent job for me on one of my cue cases. He was in constant contact during the process and it could not have gone smoother. I look forward to working with Roger on future projects. Great job, Roger, my customer is 100% satisfied!Jack Justis Justis Cases very cool jack!! i was hoping to see some pics of the completed case. it was great working with you and i'm glad that jim was happy with the result Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
