Sewing with a machine - the basics

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

2 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Glad I took 2 years of Home Ec. in school, plus my mom taught me how to use her machine...

Still, it's been a learning curve!

I gotta say, nothing I ever learned in Home Ec . . . 4 years of it if I remember right. . . prepared me for sewing leather, or much else in life for that matter.  I'd have been a whole lot better off taking shop class, and wanted to, except back then I'd have been the only girl in shop class.   Of course, the stuff I sew, and the machines I use bear virtually no resemblance to anything in Home Ec, except the machines both use some type of thread. 

[BtownMN]

On 10/14/2018 at 4:31 AM, JLSleather said:

I thought those holes looked like they came from a "leather point" needle, likely an "S" or "D" point.  But  Tom could be right - I'm hardly the expert.

But,  I like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Organ-7X4NW-DYX3LL-794LL-Leather-Point-Sewing-Machine-Needles-Singer-Consew/400730390609?var=670274800836

I haven't used ALL the point styles available by any means.  But I have used the "D" and "S" point, which I don't much care for. The hole tends to look elongated and it gives the appearance of "space" between the stitches, which I don't care for.  The "LR" point leaves an angled stitch that I have always thought was a bit "girly".  These LL point needles leave a straight line stitch, and the hole is quite diamond shaped - much as you would see with a good awl - so the stitch is tight and so is the line.

When doing holsters and belts, MOST of the time I'm using a #24 needle with size 277 thread (from Bob @ Toledo).  Many will recommend a #25 needle for that thread, but ... well, I already mentioned the gaping hole thing, right?   But I have them in sizes 23 to 26 for assorted reasons.

A couple of examples made just for when folks ask ...

Red arrow shows direction of stitching, so you're looking at it just the way you would see it in the machine with the leather moving away from you.  The stitch on the right "appears" longer - it isn't. The stitch length is the same, but appears longer due to teh "sensitive" angled stitch.  Note also that the LL point tends to pull deeper .. the LR point sits on the leather a bit higher.  I have some LR points in a drawer for maybe a couple of years now.. perhaps I'll use them someday ...

Bottom of pic shows a pic taken on a demo holster.  24 LL needle, 277 natural thread, 6 stitches per inch.  Nice straight line, tight pulled stitch, holes filled in by thread, no "space" showing between stitches.

 

 

 

 

That was a lot of really great info. Before buying this machine I had no idea there were so many different needle styles. I’m currently using a 794S. I’ve got a number of different sizes and haven’t started playing with them yet. I like the big chunky thread look and am using a 277 thread. I’ve got some size 350 Serabraid samples that I will start messing with once I figure this machine out some. 

 

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!

[JLSleather]

Yeah, thought maybe that was a 's' needle.  Compare the front side of your piece to the front side in my pic.  The 's' leaves a more oblong hole, so when the stitch pulls in it leaves the appearance of space between the stitches.  Each his own, but I dont like the look.