Holster with snake skin insert

[AA3JW]

Getting ready to make a 1911 holster with a snakeskin insert. This is new to me. What is the proper way to do the insert? Picture of the snake skin attached.

 

[katsass]

katsass here:   First off you need to use lighter leather than you would normally use for holsters. At least 3/4oz and if the weapon is large and heavy, 4/5oz. You will  use two patterns for your project. To draw my patterns I use the cheapest manila folders that I can buy at a stationery store, they are heavy enough to stand up to damp leather when transferring the pattern.  Actually you can use the same one here, but you will  reverse it so that you have two pieces of leather cut out - one being the mirror image of the other. On the pattern for the outside piece, draw your design for the cut-out (window) for the inlay (snakeskin). When you cut the leather for the outer piece, cut that window out at the same time. DON'T try to draw a separate design for the inlay window. You will NEVER get it to line up properly as far as centering, size, angle etc. when the rig is done. Draw that puppy right on your main pattern and cut it right when you cut the overall piece.  Now,  use your stitching gouge and gouge around the window in your main piece. Dampen the leather and use your overstitch to mark the stitch length right in the gouge you made. (I use 6 spi on all of my rigs) Set that piece aside. Take the piece you cut out for the window. Lay it down on a piece of paper (or manila folder) and draw that pattern 3/8 to 1/2 inch larger all around,  This will be the pattern to cut the snakeskin. Cut it out. Apply Weldwood contact cement, Barge cement or any other good quality contact cement to the outer edge of the GOOD side (the side that you will see) of the  snakeskin, being careful to NOT get any inside of that 3/8 or 1/2 inch edge. Apply the cement to the inner (rough, or flesh side) of the main, or outer  piece leather, being careful to not get the stuff much outside the 3/8 0r 1/2 inch. This narrow area is used to secure the skin to the outer piece of your masterpiece 'till you stitch it.. LET the goop  DRY FOR 10  MINUTES or so. Now CAREFULLY apply the skin to the main (outer ) piece of leather.  roll around the edge of the widow to ensure that the snakeskin is attached. Stich that puppy all the way around the window, really adhering that chunk of dead slither skin to the outer leather of your holster. You now have a piece of dead slither skin inside of a window with decorative stitching all around it. Cut out the second main piece (the mirror image) of your leather -- this one without a window. Apply cement to the flesh sides of each of the two pieces (including the slither skin) and stick them together and finish off your masterpiece.    I apologize for not showing any of my holsters but my old computer took a serious dump and ate all of my pics of prior work . If you search "katsass" you should be able to find quite a few here on this forum. This is a pic of the only purse I ever did, but you can see the inlay work on it. Good luck guy and remember: leatherwork is NOT for those seeking instant gratification.  Take your time !!!  mike

[katsass]

AA3JW: I dug around and found this pic of a holster I made for a Colt 1911. Thhe inlay is ostrich shin. Hope this helps a bit.  mike

[koreric75]

watching as i too will be delving into the inlay of slithering things...lol, have a hat band, belt and maybe wallet ordered...

[AA3JW]

18 hours ago, katsass said:

katsass here:   First off you need to use lighter leather than you would normally use for holsters. At least 3/4oz and if the weapon is large and heavy, 4/5oz. You will  use two patterns for your project. To draw my patterns I use the cheapest manila folders that I can buy at a stationery store, they are heavy enough to stand up to damp leather when transferring the pattern.  Actually you can use the same one here, but you will  reverse it so that you have two pieces of leather cut out - one being the mirror image of the other. On the pattern for the outside piece, draw your design for the cut-out (window) for the inlay (snakeskin). When you cut the leather for the outer piece, cut that window out at the same time. DON'T try to draw a separate design for the inlay window. You will NEVER get it to line up properly as far as centering, size, angle etc. when the rig is done. Draw that puppy right on your main pattern and cut it right when you cut the overall piece.  Now,  use your stitching gouge and gouge around the window in your main piece. Dampen the leather and use your overstitch to mark the stitch length right in the gouge you made. (I use 6 spi on all of my rigs) Set that piece aside. Take the piece you cut out for the window. Lay it down on a piece of paper (or manila folder) and draw that pattern 3/8 to 1/2 inch larger all around,  This will be the pattern to cut the snakeskin. Cut it out. Apply Weldwood contact cement, Barge cement or any other good quality contact cement to the outer edge of the GOOD side (the side that you will see) of the  snakeskin, being careful to NOT get any inside of that 3/8 or 1/2 inch edge. Apply the cement to the inner (rough, or flesh side) of the main, or outer  piece leather, being careful to not get the stuff much outside the 3/8 0r 1/2 inch. This narrow area is used to secure the skin to the outer piece of your masterpiece 'till you stitch it.. LET the goop  DRY FOR 10  MINUTES or so. Now CAREFULLY apply the skin to the main (outer ) piece of leather.  roll around the edge of the widow to ensure that the snakeskin is attached. Stich that puppy all the way around the window, really adhering that chunk of dead slither skin to the outer leather of your holster. You now have a piece of dead slither skin inside of a window with decorative stitching all around it. Cut out the second main piece (the mirror image) of your leather -- this one without a window. Apply cement to the flesh sides of each of the two pieces (including the slither skin) and stick them together and finish off your masterpiece.    I apologize for not showing any of my holsters but my old computer took a serious dump and ate all of my pics of prior work . If you search "katsass" you should be able to find quite a few here on this forum. This is a pic of the only purse I ever did, but you can see the inlay work on it. Good luck guy and remember: leatherwork is NOT for those seeking instant gratification.  Take your time !!!  mike

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the help.  Will probably use one of the Will Ghormley 1911 patterns and modify it to use the skin. It will take some time, but I really want it to come out nice. I am planning to use it for my SIG Emperor Scorpion as a BBQ rig.  

[baroness]

The book by Lisa Sorrell The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay is very good.  The part about skiving is worth the cost of the book itself in what you'll save in skiving mistakes.

https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/art-of-leather-inlay-and-overlay/

She is a sponsor on this site so you've probably seen the banner ad.  Lisa also has a lot of videos so you can get a good idea about the info in the book and a basic guideline on working with inlay.

I really recommend doing a couple practice pieces.  Good luck.