Singer 111W153 & table resto project

[Sugarkryptonite]

1 minute ago, katit said:

Why would you sew 1 layer? If you connecting 2 layers its a minimum. If you do single reinforced seam it’s 3 layers. But in my case I have scrim foam and it becomes even thicker. Plus some vinyls just different and don’t even need 92, 69 is good. 

Answers I got all good. I was more concerned with cosmetics and if you go with smaller needle/hole it will be different 

You're right! I was just testing sewing some different stuff. I guess no reason to do 1 layer in the real world. I noticed that when doing pleats in for example, motorcycle seats, they use scrim foam as a backer behind the vinyl. In your case, when you sew it yourself, does it work good, or still some problems? And yeah I was just going with 92 for the "look" of the bigger stitches/thread.

[katit]

Yes, no problems on my end. I played with it a lot, but now it’s all good. With real stuff I always dial in stitch and tension wit a scrap piece. Depending on number of layers, etc it needs tweaking.

just as example - stitch get shorter as thickness increases. You can’t just set and forget. Those are all adjustments you do on a fly.

my pfaff 1245 works perfectly. Now I’m refurbishing Seiko machine similar to yours, will see if I can get it all setup/adjusted

[Sugarkryptonite]

3 minutes ago, katit said:

Yes, no problems on my end. I played with it a lot, but now it’s all good. With real stuff I always dial in stitch and tension wit a scrap piece. Depending on number of layers, etc it needs tweaking.

just as example - stitch get shorter as thickness increases. You can’t just set and forget. Those are all adjustments you do on a fly.

my pfaff 1245 works perfectly. Now I’m refurbishing Seiko machine similar to yours, will see if I can get it all setup/adjusted

Nice! Thanks for your help. I saw your thread about your rebuild, not sure if you painted yet, but when I do powder coating we use plugs like these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Rubber-Tapered/dp/B00XYD2760/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548300925&sr=8-4&keywords=tapered+silicone+plugs

They're made for plugging holes temporarily while painting or powder coating (or anything else really). Just a suggestion from my experience. I just guess it would suck to have to wait for them when you already have everything prepped for paint!

[DSloop]

Today I was playing with the machine I am keeping and slowed down to turn a kinda sharp corner and it skipped a stitch , then another.

Looked at the hook and it was NOT a Singer hook.  Good time for an experiment with hooks, so I used a fine stone on the point of the other used  hook which is a Singer, to make it nice and sharp pointed, as it was just slightly dull.( It would not make a pin prick feeling on the meaty part  of my hand, that's the only gauge I have)

Replaced it for the one in the machine which has no brand name on it, checked the timing, it had not changed so I turned it thru a few times by hand then let er rip.

I tried to make it skip stitches but it would not. Go fast then slow and turn or just slow or stop. It did not skip any more. The part of the hook where the thread slips off as seen in the video above, on a Singer hook, is just a little bit longer than on the no name hooks. That small difference in the hook shape seems to me as what causes the skipped stiches.

[Sugarkryptonite]

3 hours ago, DSloop said:

Today I was playing with the machine I am keeping and slowed down to turn a kinda sharp corner and it skipped a stitch , then another.

Looked at the hook and it was NOT a Singer hook.  Good time for an experiment with hooks, so I used a fine stone on the point of the other used  hook which is a Singer, to make it nice and sharp pointed, as it was just slightly dull.( It would not make a pin prick feeling on the meaty part  of my hand, that's the only gauge I have)

Replaced it for the one in the machine which has no brand name on it, checked the timing, it had not changed so I turned it thru a few times by hand then let er rip.

I tried to make it skip stitches but it would not. Go fast then slow and turn or just slow or stop. It did not skip any more. The part of the hook where the thread slips off as seen in the video above, on a Singer hook, is just a little bit longer than on the no name hooks. That small difference in the hook shape seems to me as what causes the skipped stiches.

Thanks. Did you use the fine stone on the top of the hook or the bottom curved portion?

Edited January 25, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite

[DSloop]

44 minutes ago, Sugarkryptonite said:

Thanks. Did you use the fine stone on the top of the hook or the bottom curved portion?

I tried to keep it evenly worked, so that the original shape was kept. Some 1600-2500 grit sand paper is needed to polish it also. The NEW generic hook was as pointed as a needle, tested by poking the web between thumb and first finger. A GOOD magnifying glass is really handy. A strong one, like from the eyepiece of a pair of binoculars. Is your hook a Simanco, or generic? Sharpening won't help too much if it's not Simanco., imho.

[Londonfog]

Ridiculous.

I hate you

Nicely done

 

I've got a massive Singer Longarm (It's hard to move even with two people) that needs a new table built, but I'm not going to have nearly as many toys to build it with.

[DSloop]

2 minutes ago, Londonfog said:

Ridiculous.

I hate you

Nicely done

 

I've got a massive Singer Longarm (It's hard to move even with two people) that needs a new table built, but I'm not going to have nearly as many toys to build it with.

Wat? Kinda lost here...…..

[Sugarkryptonite]

7 minutes ago, DSloop said:

I tried to keep it evenly worked, so that the original shape was kept. Some 1600-2500 grit sand paper is needed to polish it also. The NEW generic hook was as pointed as a needle, tested by poking the web between thumb and first finger. A GOOD magnifying glass is really handy. A strong one, like from the eyepiece of a pair of binoculars. Is your hook a Simanco, or generic? Sharpening won't help too much if it's not Simanco., imho.

4 minutes ago, DSloop said:

Wat? Kinda lost here...…..

Thanks! and I believe he was talking to me 

 

7 minutes ago, Londonfog said:

Ridiculous.

I hate you

Nicely done

 

I've got a massive Singer Longarm (It's hard to move even with two people) that needs a new table built, but I'm not going to have nearly as many toys to build it with.

Thanks my friend 

[DSloop]

post an image of the area of the hook, where the thread is shown and discussed in the video above. Is it a Simanco hook? just curious.tyvm

quote--(I was hoping someone could help me with adjusting the presser foot knee lift. Whenever I do it, the rod on the machine seems to want to twist, and then all of a sudden it "lets go", and makes a spring type noise. From the videos I've watched, the action is suppose to be smooth. Also, could someone explain how to adjust the spring that is on the rod itself with the set screw? Not sure where to set it exactly.)

The end of the lifting rod under the machine needs a smooth rounded surface, like a small wheel, or in my case a small heim joint that I repurposed.

I just slid the end over the lifting rod, with a thin piece of foam rubber wrapped around the rod to prevent it from falling off. You could thread the rod if it was the right size, mine was not. The round surface will provide a better smoother action where it touches the metal pad  when you use the knee lift.

 

Edited January 26, 2019 by DSloop