Work bench

[MY63]

Hi Everyone

I am planning to build a small work shop in my garden to get my leatherwork out of our house, I currently have a granite slab 16 in x 30 in and a 2ft x 3ft piece of plywood that I rest on a couple of boxes to work on.

My garden workshop will be almost 12ft x 8ft ( we are metric in England) and have some crazy planning laws. I have made some simple drawings to help with the timber order.

Where I am looking for help is with the work benches my current thinking is to have a large full width cutting bench across the bottom and two benches up the long sides one for leather work the other for wood and other work.

I am not sure of the height for the leather working side as well as the width so if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it 

 

[Matt S]

The danger with all sorts of workshop is that equipment is a gas -- it expands to fill the space available. My shed is about 10x18ft and honestly I'm pushing the boundaries of what it can contain. Two years ago I used to fill not even half of that space, and not long before that it all fitted on a computer desk.

I've already put the leather into the spare bedroom... My main workbench is 8x2ft, as that was recommended by a saddler. It's great for strap work and just about deep enough to lay out a bridle butt. However it's not much use for breaking down sides and shoulders, needs to be twice as deep, but I can't really fit a 8x4 bench around all the other stuff.

I've found that the full width of workbenches can't always be used if the ends are obstructed by walls or equipment. The way I use a strap cutter, for instance, is to lay the leather off the edge of the bench and walk backwards, keeping the pulling strength and angle consistent, which gives the best results. However when my backside hits that wall, storage unit or machine, there's about 2 feet of bench left.

As to height, I'm a tad under 6 foot high. My shed ceiling is about 7'6" at one side and 6'6" at the other. I ran into issues with my hammer hitting the ceiling at the top of my swing when I had my bench under the lower-ceiling area. Fewer problems at the higher end. My uncle, at least 6" taller than me, has real problems with the ceiling. I think that permitted development allows a maximum shed height of 2.4m (8 foot?) without planning permission.

So, to my mind, it all depends what you want to do in terms of leather-work and what you're likely to do. Is it intended purely as a hobby, using just a few types of leather with no machines? Then you can get along with just a small space. If you have any intentions of running a business (even as a sideline), or buying any machines (whether as a hobby or business) you'll run out of space in a 12x8 fairly quickly. Sewing machines, for instance, normally occupy a table around 20x30".

[kgg]

Work tables which are comfortable to work at vary from person to person depending on the task at hand and their height. What I have found to be a comfortable height of the top of the work surface is the measurement to the floor as measured from the top of my belt buckle to the floor wearing the footwear that I normally wear. Some people even through they my be the same height one person my have shorter or longer legs. My table would be to high for my wife (5'-4" stretched) too comfortably stand and work at while it would be to low for my son (6'-1"). My work table is normally 48" x 48" with two 8" wide sides that are hinged to the main table that I can raise to extend the width out to 64" when needed. At present my total area for my stuff (materials/ equipment) is a 10' x 12' spare room.

kgg

[ScoobyNewbie]

I’m thinking about an RV. I live in Nebraska, so I need it to be heated in the winter and ac in the summer, without using gas. I’m thinking about pulling the wall fixtures out and putting in benches, shelves and drilled 6X6s for stamps and other tooling tools. It will have a sink and a toilet and maybe a couch. Paradise!

[chrisash]

MY63

One thing you can get which is cheap and has plenty of space and no planning laws is a ex mobile home as long as you keep the wheels on they avoid any laws, they can look ok and often very cheap about 30ft x 12 ft with easy interior walls to knock down, other options are portacabins or shipping containers

Don't forget security is essential

Chris

[MY63]

@Matt S Thanks for your detailed response 

2018-12-28_12-43-50 by my0771, on Flickr

I have made a simple drawing of the interior layout I hope it is visible. The end furthest from the doors will have the largest work area 3 ft 3 in or 1 metre deep with a 1 ft lift out panel. It will span the entire width of the work shop just over 7 ft.  I have positioned the doors to allow me to back out of the work shop if cutting long straps.

I am also just under 6 ft tall I am planning on a double apex roof which under local planning must be under 2.5 m high so it will be 2.499 m high at the centre with a shallow pitch to 2.4 m at the outer edges.

My aims for my leather working have not changed over the last few years I make custom cases for fountain pens and restore old leather bags and cases sometimes I make new briefcases and bags. 

I will be making a wooden end grain block for punching and stamping and already have a granite slab which I intend to fit into the work bench.

@kgg Thanks your suggestion will work for me I would like to have a rise and fall work bench but I don't think it is possible.

I live in a built up area so the mobile options are not possible without a large crane to lift them over the houses I think my neighbours might object to a shipping container.

I fully intend to make the work shop as secure as possible.

Thanks

Michael 

 

[Rustwa]

I'm just over 6' and my work bench height is determined by the distance from the ground to the bottom of my elbow minus a couple inches. That worked out to 40" for me. That puts my carving work where I need it when standing or sitting on a bar stool without hunching over. My workbench is probably a bit high for most but it saves my back not having to bend over. The top measures 5'x3' and I wish it were bigger.

I have a 4'x4' piece of HDPE that I lay on the kitchen table to cut out my hides. That works for most things as long as I have the table cleared when the wife walks in.

One thing that I think is crucial is that my feet be able to fit under the work surface. A friend of mine has cabinets that run flush with the edge of the countertop to the floor and it is painful to work that way.

[rodneywt1180b]

I don't know what your budget or zoning laws are but I would recommend insulating and covering the insides of the walls with something like plywood or OSB when you build the shed.  The little bit of space lost is nothing compared to the ease of hanging tool racks, shelves, etc on smooth walls. It will also be easier to keep clean and light colored walls also reflect light better than bare wood.  I left my shop with bare studs on the inside and regret it.   Run a larger electrical service to the shop than you think you'll need.

Have a decent folding table handy.  You can move outside to cut down large hides, etc when the weather permits. 

[MY63]

@Rustwa Thanks that is exactly the sort of information I have been looking for. I was looking at some wood workers on Instagram the other day there were two people working either side of a bench. The owner of the workshop who built the bench had a straight back and looked comfortable the visitor who was slightly taller was hunched over and looked quite uncomfortable.

So far I have gathered that the ideal position is just below the elbow, or above the belt buckle, belly button, solar plexus. I think there is a pattern here all of these suggestions put the bench height in a similar place. The bottom of my elbow is 41 inches top of belt line, belly button 40 inches.

@rodneywt1180b I did have a budget but that went out of the window some time ago  

My construction will have a stone foundation with a wooden frame on concrete lintels, the studs will have 100 mm 4 inches of insulation with OSB3 as the internal vapour barrier,  Then a membrane before a 50 mm air gap then the outer wood cladding. The floor and roof will also have 100 mm of insulation.

In the UK we have permitted development I can build a workshop shed in my garden as long as it is not more than 2.5 m high and is 1 m from my boundary I can build it without permission.

I plan to have a decked area in front of the work shop but it might not make the initial build I am having issues digging holes at the moment.

Thanks to everyone for the input it is appreciated. 

[kgg]

I have a couple of suggestions on your construction.

In Ontario what is starting to become more common home construction is called wrap and strap. Starting from the interior of the building: 1/2" gyproc (just substitute 1/2" OSB for your needs), super 6 vapour barrier (vapour barrier needs to be on the winter warm side), 2x4 horizontal studs spaced 16" up from the floor to ceiling, 2x6 vertical studs with cavity between the vertical studs insulated, exterior OSB, 2" of rigid insulation and then the siding.

The advantage of the wrap and strap for your needs would be the horizontal studding, it would offer better structural strength for hanging stuff off the walls and for routing electrical / water lines in the walls. In your floor I would recommend rigid insulation to keep the cold and dampness from coming up through the floor. However an insulated concrete slab-on-grade would be much more structurally sound and warmer (10" compacted crushed stone, two layers of 2" rigid one going north to south and the other east to west then concrete). As far as the roof goes you should put insulation and vapour in to keep the summer heat and winter cold out. The more you can get in there correctly will make a huge difference which may affect your roof design. I don't personally like blown in foam insulation as if it is not done properly it will not cure properly and the place will smell like rotten fish as it off gases.

kgg

[MY63]

Thanks @kgg it actually sounds very similar to my planned construction. With the exception of the horizontal studding which is not common here in the UK blown insulation of the type you describe is also uncommon. I plan to use solid insulation boards 4 in thick in the floor walls and roof. OSB 3 is indeed to be used as the vapour barrier on the warm side working outwards insulation followed by the breathable membrane then the 2 in air gap before the final sheeting.

All of the timber will be pressure treated and painted before construction begins as you can see from the drawing below there is a 12 sand and stone foundation to ground level then the complete box of 6 in concrete plinth to which the sole or sill plates will be attached complete with damp proof membrane. the floor joists will be hung from this plate, vents will also be fitted.

I am not an expert but have been fortunate to find a UK forum woodhaven2 where I obtained all of the information to build my workshop.

I have added another crude drawing below. 

 

2018-12-06_02-22-56 by my0771, on Flickr

I found some further information about working heights which suggested that for manual type working 6 in below shirt cuff height is best like woodworking and for more intricate work 6 inches above the cuff height is best so I may need one side higher and the other side lower or come up with a fantastic engineering solution to allow the bench heights to be changed.

 

[kgg]

Different continents and different climates have different construction needs. I am curious as to why you are going to paint the pressure treated timber the 2x4's and 2x6's which may in fact cause moisture to be retained in the timber. Over here the newer methods of pressure treatment of timber does not go to the core of the timber, just a mild penetration so the majority of the timber is still natural which will still have moisture. My thought process would be that painting the whole exterior of the timber you may prevent the core moisture from escaping and it would rot from within.

You also mentioned that you are planning on joist hanging the 2x 6 floor joists and the plans show their attachment to a 2x 4 bottom plate and the 4x6 sill plate. Why not just place 3/4" threaded bolts in the centre of the 12" x12" concrete foundation spaced every couple of feet when pouring and leave them protruding about 6" above the top of the concrete foundation. Then the next day when the concrete is solid enough install your damp proof membrane then bolt two 2"x6" on their flat all the way around on top of the concrete. Usually done so the second layer of 2"x6" joist plate overlaps the seams particularly in the corners left by the first layer of joist plate. The 2"x6" floor joists would then rest on the joist plates extending to the outside edge of the joist plate and then toe nailed to the double 2"x6" joist plate. This would be a lot less work, increase head room (very slightly) and provide a structurally stronger floor.

Then deck over and install the walls on top of the floor. Depending on the load of what you are putting in there you may need to go with a 12" joist spacing or larger joists. I am assuming you are planning on using 5/8" or 3/4" tongue and groove plywood decking / floor. Plywood would be stronger structurally, smoother surface and wear better. I would still consider putting down a vapour barrier over your sand and stone in the centre of your foundation to help prevent ground moisture from getting to the floor.

kgg

[Rustwa]

4 hours ago, MY63 said:

heights which suggested that for manual type working 6 in below shirt cuff height is best like woodworking and for more intricate work 6 inches above the cuff height is best so I may need one side higher and the other side lower or come up with a fantastic engineering solution to allow the bench heights to be changed.

I agree with that method of determining height. At my dayjob we have height adjustable tables with hydraulic jacks doing the work of adjusting. They are built like tanks with a meter by meter sized table weighing 1/3 of a ton. They are still not as sturdy as a fixed table weighing half that. I hope you do find a simple, easy, and effective way to make your table height adjustable and still be sturdy. A quick study of your layout leads me to think you won't be hindered by different heights in your workbenches. My old shop was laid out similar. I kept the tall bench clean and piled junk on the short one.