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Do all leather glues have to be thinned so that they can be spread evenly and easily?

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I use regular contact adhesive. I find that it flows better after the tin is heated in jug of hot water

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No. At least, not at first. My contact cement tends to harden up over time because I don't use much of it, then it needs to be thinned. Other than that, I haven't thinned any other adhesives. 

1 minute ago, fredk said:

I use regular contact adhesive. I find that it flows better after the tin is heated in jug of hot water

Good to know! How long does it take, assuming you have to heat the entire contents?

Jeff

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dunno, I just place the tin in very hot water. pop the lid open first or it blow off. be careful not to get water into the tin. then I just leave it to warm up whilst i sort things out ready for glueing, tidying the work space [yeah, right] so its maybe 5 to 10 minutes for a full-ish 250ml tin

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"pop the lid open first or it blow off"

ooh, I see how that could happen, thanks!

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fredk

Thanks for reply. What glue do you use and does it have a brush/applicator built into the lid or do you just dip in a glue brush?

 

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up to now I've been using Evostik contact in the red tin, I've also used Screwfix' own brand. Neither have brushes** and I dont use them either, I use a wide  lolly stick* with the round end cut off. When glueing leather to a board for a game board I pour some glue on the board and spread it around with the stick. Being heated it flows better but also starts to 'set' faster - faster than normal but not too rapidly

** the Screwfix one might have had a brush in the lid, but I would have got rid of it

* wide lolly sticks, cost about £2 for 50. use multiple times; just cut off the gluey bit and reuse, about 4 times

Now, note, heating the glue will make it flow better, its still thick,  just not like molasses, more like honey

once I forgot to pop the lid; it blew off with the sound like a gunshot - scared the bejayzus out of me so it did

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Cheers guys thanks for replies.

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