What am I doing wrong?

[KennethM]

I been having this issue on every wallet I try.I recently bought my first sewing machine.A techsew 1460..When I see my wallets the top side looks great.However the bottom side is horrible.Especial the corner look bad on the bottom side.When I approach a corner I hand wheel it untill I get to the turning point.Leave the needle in then use the knee clutch and then rotate my work.

 

I am using tandy leather.2-3 oz..I didnt skive this leather.Using #69 thread with a size 18 needle 135x16 needle system...please help..burned about 10 wallets.I have tried different pressure feet pressure combo.New needles..nothing has helped..its always the corner and the back side of my wallets.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iq6fiyji5uwcfdu/0109191541a.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysifjlgakmb9s8w/0109191541b.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ku0bafeeqmplao1/0109191541.jpg?dl=0

[benlilly1]

This is a stab in the dark but, it happens when you hand turn the corner, so maybe it's affecting the tension? 

[KennethM]

6 minutes ago, benlilly1 said:

This is a stab in the dark but, it happens when you hand turn the corner, so maybe it's affecting the tension? 

Hmmm..maybe I'm not sure lol.Need someone smarter then me to confirm

[benlilly1]

1 minute ago, KennethM said:

Hmmm..maybe I'm not sure lol.Need someone smarter then me to confirm

Well, I noticed on my old home machine, if I did that it would make the thread loose underneath and have excess and get tangled. I'm sure someone else will chime in and help.

[Matt S]

Kenneth, are you using leather-specific needles? Ones designed for fabric have a rounded, non-sharp tip designed to part woven fibres whereas needles for leather have a cutting edge on the tip, which cuts through non-woven fibres and therefore reduces blowout on the back side. There's always a difference between the top and bottom side of a seam sewn with a closed-eye needle. Apparently needle-and-awl machines are better at this but they're not very common. I find that hammering or rubbing the seam flat helps with the appearance most of the time.

Looks like you have a few issues with tension too, either that the top tension is too low, bobbin tension too high, or that your thread isn't feeding evenly (top or bobbin thread).

As to the corner issue either your leather is shifting under the foot, or maybe your needle is deflecting (possibly due to shifting leather). Are you glueing or taping your leather before sewing? Because that can reduce layer slippage. It may be also that your foot pressure is a little high for that thickness of leather, so it's pushing the layers a bit to the side.

Just from an aesthetic POV I'd reduce the stitch length a bit with that size thread. Helps with getting the stitches to line up with corners too.

Oh and one final tip: practice on scraps not projects! Keep all your scraps, even a couple inches of sewing to check your settings can save you a lot of time and money.

[kgg]

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom.

kgg

[ljk]

This is a common issue on this forum. There is 3 issues # 1 tension,  most machines release tension  by knee lift

and or by lifting lever.   You have to sew with no tension release, and you may consider after stopping pull thread

tight.   I have adjusted my tension release at the very top of its travel.  #2  I use SD1 needles seems to work with

minimum eruption on the back side of the leather.  #3  I use Merrow floss  commonly used to put edge on patches.

Available in small spools from red Rock Threads online.  This thread is all poly, strong. and is fairly thick.  It

has good shine and shows well wallets and bags.  You may not duplicate the saddle stitch but can get close.

[Techsew Ron]

17 hours ago, KennethM said:

I been having this issue on every wallet I try.I recently bought my first sewing machine.A techsew 1460..When I see my wallets the top side looks great.However the bottom side is horrible.Especial the corner look bad on the bottom side.When I approach a corner I hand wheel it untill I get to the turning point.Leave the needle in then use the knee clutch and then rotate my work.

 

I am using tandy leather.2-3 oz..I didnt skive this leather.Using #69 thread with a size 18 needle 135x16 needle system...please help..burned about 10 wallets.I have tried different pressure feet pressure combo.New needles..nothing has helped..its always the corner and the back side of my wallets.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iq6fiyji5uwcfdu/0109191541a.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysifjlgakmb9s8w/0109191541b.jpg?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ku0bafeeqmplao1/0109191541.jpg?dl=0

Hi Kenneth, I noticed on another forum you changed to a different type of presser foot that you purchased and mentioned you were having issues with it not coming 100% back down. This might be affecting your bottom tension as the tension is released when you raise the presser foot. Please send us an email to support@techsew.com and we'll follow up with some adjustments.

Ron

[jonl30]

Not that this is the issue but I was told to make sure the needle is on the upstroke before raising the feet to turn so the hook could catch the thread and not miss the stitch

[brmax]

Yes, I agree also and you picked up a good tip in that.  If your corners last stitch ends with the needle being down and after bottom center its going up. The amount can vary but try 1/4” or more to start. I feel the thread is then at a secure point to lift presser a bit to turn material. 

Is a smaller needle available or has this been considered. I understand each material has its go to size with threads. An 18&19 is my go to for 92 threads. 

Much of our time we will easily see a consistency when most of a products stitch line was sewn facing up. Its always a bit different looking when, we have to or just for convenience keep flipping over and stitching. Just something we try to pattern for even in our best stitch line. 

 

 

Good day to ya

Floyd

[KennethM]

On 1/9/2019 at 6:26 PM, Matt S said:

Kenneth, are you using leather-specific needles? Ones designed for fabric have a rounded, non-sharp tip designed to part woven fibres whereas needles for leather have a cutting edge on the tip, which cuts through non-woven fibres and therefore reduces blowout on the back side. There's always a difference between the top and bottom side of a seam sewn with a closed-eye needle. Apparently needle-and-awl machines are better at this but they're not very common. I find that hammering or rubbing the seam flat helps with the appearance most of the time.

Looks like you have a few issues with tension too, either that the top tension is too low, bobbin tension too high, or that your thread isn't feeding evenly (top or bobbin thread).

As to the corner issue either your leather is shifting under the foot, or maybe your needle is deflecting (possibly due to shifting leather). Are you glueing or taping your leather before sewing? Because that can reduce layer slippage. It may be also that your foot pressure is a little high for that thickness of leather, so it's pushing the layers a bit to the side.

Just from an aesthetic POV I'd reduce the stitch length a bit with that size thread. Helps with getting the stitches to line up with corners too.

Oh and one final tip: practice on scraps not projects! Keep all your scraps, even a couple inches of sewing to check your settings can save you a lot of time and money.

Hey Matt I am using leather  spefic needles.But thank you.

 

I am glueing my leather.Using E600..I was using leather cement from tandy but I wanted to try something different.

 

I have the pressure feet as lose as possible when this was sewed.I suppose I should have practiced on a scrap for 3 layers.I did a practice run for 2 layers and it was perfect.Thank you for the tips

On 1/9/2019 at 6:31 PM, kgg said:

It maybe just the angle of the photos but to me it looks like your machines stitch length is not consistent even on the straight runs. I would first remove the top thread from the needle then take a piece of paper and do a straight run of 12 stitches with the motor, measure the distance between each hole and then do a straight run of 12 stitches by hand wheeling them through, once again measure the distance between each hole. All the holes whether they are made by using the motor or by hand should be the same. If the stitch length is a little iffy it may explain why the tension problem on the bottom.

kgg

 I will try this out.I'm confident its fine tho!

[KennethM]

On 1/9/2019 at 6:47 PM, ljk said:

This is a common issue on this forum. There is 3 issues # 1 tension,  most machines release tension  by knee lift

and or by lifting lever.   You have to sew with no tension release, and you may consider after stopping pull thread

tight.   I have adjusted my tension release at the very top of its travel.  #2  I use SD1 needles seems to work with

minimum eruption on the back side of the leather.  #3  I use Merrow floss  commonly used to put edge on patches.

Available in small spools from red Rock Threads online.  This thread is all poly, strong. and is fairly thick.  It

has good shine and shows well wallets and bags.  You may not duplicate the saddle stitch but can get close.

Thank you I will keep this in mind..not sure my needle point type.I just bought some new bigger needles.

 

How do you turn corners with no tension realse 

9 hours ago, Techsew Ron said:

Hi Kenneth, I noticed on another forum you changed to a different type of presser foot that you purchased and mentioned you were having issues with it not coming 100% back down. This might be affecting your bottom tension as the tension is released when you raise the presser foot. Please send us an email to support@techsew.com and we'll follow up with some adjustments.

Ron

Thanks Ron.The pressure foot would stick before I switched them out,they still stick matter of fact but will give them a email.

[KennethM]

4 hours ago, jonl30 said:

Not that this is the issue but I was told to make sure the needle is on the upstroke before raising the feet to turn so the hook could catch the thread and not miss the stitch

Thanks man.I thought I was doing this but perhaps I did bring the needle up enough

[KennethM]

3 hours ago, brmax said:

Yes, I agree also and you picked up a good tip in that.  If your corners last stitch ends with the needle being down and after bottom center its going up. The amount can vary but try 1/4” or more to start. I feel the thread is then at a secure point to lift presser a bit to turn material. 

Is a smaller needle available or has this been considered. I understand each material has its go to size with threads. An 18&19 is my go to for 92 threads. 

Much of our time we will easily see a consistency when most of a products stitch line was sewn facing up. Its always a bit different looking when, we have to or just for convenience keep flipping over and stitching. Just something we try to pattern for even in our best stitch line. 

 

 

Good day to ya

Floyd

Ill have to keep this in mind and double check.I was using #69 with a 18 needle but just bought some bigger needles for #92 thread

 

Can you explain what you mean when referring to consistency and sewn face up?

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, KennethM said:

Ill have to keep this in mind and double check.I was using #69 with a 18 needle but just bought some bigger needles for #92 thread

 

Can you explain what you mean when referring to consistency and sewn face up?

#18 needles are more likely to deflect and break than #19. I use #19 on machines with #92 (T90) thread (top and bottom). I know that a #18 needle produces a tighter hole and might resort to using one for a particular job where the knots could move with a #19. I would be very careful while sewing to avoid deflections. Breaking needles on industrial sewing machines can be like mini-IEDs.

Sewing face up probably refers to sewing on the top grain, or outer side (e.g., wallet back), as opposed to sewing from the inside out (e.g., wallet interior side). The top side (needle entry) always looks nicer than the bottom (needle exit) on a typical sewing machine.

[KennethM]

7 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

#18 needles are more likely to deflect and break than #19. I use #19 on machines with #92 (T90) thread (top and bottom). I know that a #18 needle produces a tighter hole and might resort to using one for a particular job where the knots could move with a #19. I would be very careful while sewing to avoid deflections. Breaking needles on industrial sewing machines can be like mini-IEDs.

Sewing face up probably refers to sewing on the top grain, or outer side (e.g., wallet back), as opposed to sewing from the inside out (e.g., wallet interior side). The top side (needle entry) always looks nicer than the bottom (needle exit) on a typical sewing machine.

Ah that makes sense.Thank you

[KennethM]

Got a questions for everybody since I'm new and still learning about sewing machines.

 

Shouldn't the needle and middle foot touch the material your sewing/feed dog together in sync?Becuase mine do not .

[KennethM]

I did a paper test.I used the hand wheel to check my stitching spacing and its off.I'm not getting correct stitch spacing.

 

1)why is the happening?

2)how do I fix this?

[kgg]

For the presser foot issue is this similar to the problem you had previous with this machine?

[KennethM]

3 hours ago, kgg said:

For the presser foot issue is this similar to the problem you had previous with this machine?

Yes thought I fixed it..guess I didnt do it properly

[KennethM]

Update:

 

So I had some free time today.Trying to figure some things out.Techsew techsupport is looking into my emails

 

I started following the sailright sewing machinw manual to try to figure some things out

 

I first at trying to proplery balance the pressure feet alternating height

 

So I set the otter pressure goot to lift 4mm and the inner to lift 2-3mm per the sailright manual.

 

Then by hand I did a stitch per inch test.

 

I noticed going forward I am now more consistent of about 7 Mm but the last puncture looks to be closer to 8 mm.

 

Then when I go in reverse and pray that I go through the same holes ..well I dont I make new stitching holes..check out this photo..

 

All and any help is welcomend

[kgg]

This I think is a mechanical problem not a needle problem. Techsew should help guide you through correcting the problem.

[KennethM]

So far techsew has not been the greatest help per say..

 

I sent them photos of the wallet asking for advice on what went wrong and how can I fix the issue or avoid the issue .As I am having the ssme problem on every wallet regardless of needle.

 

Mind you my needle stitch lenght is not accurate either..this is what they email me.

 

 

[KennethM]

Here's another issuie I am having

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sthq279elkx3wa8/0114191453.mp4?dl=0

[Techsew Ron]

12 hours ago, KennethM said:

So far techsew has not been the greatest help per say..

 

I sent them photos of the wallet asking for advice on what went wrong and how can I fix the issue or avoid the issue .As I am having the ssme problem on every wallet regardless of needle.

 

Mind you my needle stitch lenght is not accurate either..this is what they email me.

 

 

Hi Kenneth, we're promptly responding to everyone of your questions by email and offering a number of recommendations for adjustments. We would like you to try leather specific needles (LL or S or Diamond point) to decrease the puncture marks on the bottom. Please try our suggestions and let us know the results.

Ron