Withcraftz Report post Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) I've set myself the goal of recreating the armor for The Witcher 3, for fun purposes, not full contact re-enactment. Knowing that this is artwork and there will be inconsistencies from picture to picture and that certain things won't work in real life I wanted to ask a lot of questions before I cut any leather! I'm currently working on the chest piece. It looks like the chest is one piece but I couldn't figure out how you would make a pattern for that. To make a pattern I took saran wrap, covered myself then covered it in duck tape. Then I cut it off, adjusted it and transferred it to paper. I've made the chest pattern as 2 pieces, with it attaching at the shoulders with lacing and clasps at the sides. I don't think this lacing is historically accurate but I thought that since it will be hidden under the shoulder pauldrons it should be fine - I think lacing was used for armor in roman times but was clasps in medieval times. I did find something very similar from another person but couldn't find a reference person. The leather I am using for the chest is black 8-9oz latigo and the brown is 8-9oz horween. Questions: How do I get the shape molded for the pectorals? I've read about wet-forming but what would use/make as a mould? The chest seems to have a split down though the center to the bottom of the pectorals, I assume this is to be able to get in and out of the armor, will wet forming make it too stiff? Do I need to put metal eyelets in at the shoulders for the lacing? The sides come together and attach with clasps under the arms, It looks like it's a perfect fit but should I make it slightly overlap instead? The neck has a collar that comes up, how do I make it so it attaches all around? How do I attach it? Do I need to make seam allowances? The bottom part of the body is separate from the chest piece. I was thinking of a wife beater type top with the chainmail and large side pieces only on the bottom portion. The pauldrons are held down by 2 large straps that crisscross the body. Question: For the edges which hold down the chainmail, do I cut one set of the side pieces short so that they don't overlap? or do I overlap them? Reference front: Reference side: Reference back: Similar Chest Piece: Edited January 14, 2019 by Withcraftz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AmyK Report post Posted January 14, 2019 You’re asking all the right questions! My first leather project was a suit of leather armor (yes, I’m crazy). Chest, pauldrons, bracers, hip and shin plates. Took me about 6 months. It was a Sister of Battle from Warhammer 40k. I also did plastic wrap and duct tape. Nothing wrong with that! It works! Sounds like you know this, but it’s easy to get in the weeds and forget: you don’t have to match the photos, you have to evoke the character. When I wet formed my chest piece, I wet it then put it on. Had a friend with a hairdryer go over it til it began to dry, using her hands to smooth the leather around my curves. When it felt like it was holding its shape, I could take it off and dry the inside with a hairdryer to fully set the piece. Also maybe not needed for men’s armor, but I wore a waist cincher underneath the help me get separation between abdomen and breasts while whet molding. I used Chicago screws. SOOO MANY CHICAGO SCREWS. Reasons: easy to Try on and revise fit, can disassemble for dyeing, travel and storage. Id make the back and front of your chest, then attach them with straps that will be hidden by the pauldrons. I also airbrushed my dye on. Saved time and was nice and even. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Withcraftz Report post Posted January 15, 2019 Hi Amy, thanks for the info, this is also my first time using leather, I can't believe you made such a complicated armor as your first leather work! Geralt is simple in comparison. I'll try your method for the chest piece. My muscles aren't quite what Geralt has, plus I'm going to be wearing something underneath, so I'm thinking of adding a layer of foam to my chest to get a bit more definition and space. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AmyK Report post Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) The foam won’t work, but there’s nothing saying you have to mirror your actual shape. Once it’s started to form, use the side of your hand like a blade to define those contours. If needed, you can continue to shape it over another object when you take it off. I bet your knee would work Edited January 19, 2019 by AmyK Rechecked your sample images and changed my mind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harry Marinakis Report post Posted January 19, 2019 (edited) On 1/13/2019 at 5:25 PM, Withcraftz said: ...I don't think this lacing is historically accurate... Absolutely nothing in any of those photos is historically accurate. Questions: How do I get the shape molded for the pectorals? I've read about wet-forming but what would use/make as a mould? You could make a foam mold, or emboss the leather The chest seems to have a split down though the center to the bottom of the pectorals, I assume this is to be able to get in and out of the armor? You're reading too much into what you see. The armor is fantasy. What you see has nothing to do with purpose or function, it's all fantasy. The design, layout, methods of attachment, etc., are all fantasy, and are not similar in any way to any type of historical armor. Do I need to put metal eyelets in at the shoulders for the lacing? Not necessary, since the suspended weight is minimal and you won't be fighting. Just be sure that you set the eyelets in the leather far enough away from the edge that they don't rip through. The sides come together and attach with clasps under the arms, It looks like it's a perfect fit but should I make it slightly overlap instead? Yes, that makes it easier to adjust and fit properly The neck has a collar that comes up, how do I make it so it attaches all around? How do I attach it? Historically the neck protection was a separate piece (in most cases), worn under the chest piece, not a collar. Again, since this is fantasy you can make it and attach it in whatever manner you want. Question: For the edges which hold down the chainmail, do I cut one set of the side pieces short so that they don't overlap? or do I overlap them? Don't understand your question Edited January 19, 2019 by Harry Marinakis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Withcraftz Report post Posted January 25, 2019 I purchased a large piece of leather (full hide) from craigslist for cheap so I will make a test chest piece with it before making it with the good thick leather I have. How do I get the shape molded for the pectorals? I've read about wet-forming but what would use/make as a mould? You could make a foam mold, or emboss the leather I'll try the foam mould then first and see how it goes, if it's not forming right I'll try using something else like a piece of wood. The chest seems to have a split down though the center to the bottom of the pectorals, I assume this is to be able to get in and out of the armor? You're reading too much into what you see. The armor is fantasy. What you see has nothing to do with purpose or function, it's all fantasy. The design, layout, methods of attachment, etc., are all fantasy, and are not similar in any way to any type of historical armor. From what I have read the game designers did try to make the armor "functional" and kind of, sort of, historically based. Though I will agree this is fantasy armor and there will be many things that are pure imagination just because it looks cool. I made a thick paper version of the armor to test on, and as I suspected I couldn't get my head into the opening without making a slit. Do I need to put metal eyelets in at the shoulders for the lacing? Not necessary, since the suspended weight is minimal and you won't be fighting. Just be sure that you set the eyelets in the leather far enough away from the edge that they don't rip through. The sides come together and attach with clasps under the arms, It looks like it's a perfect fit but should I make it slightly overlap instead? Yes, that makes it easier to adjust and fit properly The neck has a collar that comes up, how do I make it so it attaches all around? How do I attach it? Historically the neck protection was a separate piece (in most cases), worn under the chest piece, not a collar. Again, since this is fantasy you can make it and attach it in whatever manner you want. Understood, but how should I make the collar? Question: For the edges which hold down the chainmail, do I cut one set of the side pieces short so that they don't overlap? or do I overlap them? Don't understand your question Sorry, that wasn't clear. The shoulder pieces have thin strips of leather that surround the chainmail. If all the strips extend from edge to edge, then there will be a small section in each corner that will have 2 strips overlap. I'm wondering about how to keep that overlap to a minimum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 26, 2019 My armor experience is having created two sets, . . . both very much Roman-esque armor, . . . my favorite was worn by General Sutonious as he battled Bouddica in the History channel or Youtube. The front is one piece, . . . 12 oz or so veggie tan, . . . hand molded, one section at a time. The back is done the same way. Care needs to be taken, . . . make the arm holes and neck hole plenty big enough, . . . and roll the edges out. I don't have a picture of mine, . . . but this image is the one I used to design mine, . . . and provided the opponent only had a wooden sword, . . . it would probably prove battle worthy. The two pieces are buckled together at the top, . . . the front overlaps the back on both sides, . . . and they are buckled together as well. Have fun with your armor, . . . I wear mine to imitate the 3 centurions of the New Testament, . . . at church presentations. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites