Steps for wet forming

[GregS]

So being a newbie, I've done some cutting, stitching, tooling, wet forming, etc.  I made a small pocket organizer for my flashlight, pen and multitool.  It works for me, but I want to improve on it.  Next version is going to be wet formed and dyed.  But I need some help with the order of the steps I need to use.

So the steps I think I need to do are cut the leather, wet form, dye, glue and stitch.

But do I dye before or after wet forming?  I'm using Fiebling's Pro Dye, if that makes a difference.

[battlemunky]

I always dye after the forming is over and completely dried. I follow a similar path as you but I leave the size of the leather quite a bit larger than usual since it always seems to shift or move some and the edges don't always line back up so the generous slop is welcome. 

Fiebing's Pro Dye is about all I use anymore. I have a little bit of their other dye but am almost out of it and I really like the Pro Dye better.

[GregS]

I haven't formed an opinion on various dyes since I haven't done much dying.  I just asked the guys at the Tandy store and they recommended Pro Dye.

How about if I wanted to tool the leather and put on antique?  I guess tooling would need to be done after wet forming so I didn't ruin the design.  Can wet formed leather be tooled?

[battlemunky]

I've seen that with some of the non-pro dyes they will leave a metallic haze behind sometimes and I couldn't figure out when it would or why it did so I opted to stay with the pro stuff since it is far more predictable.

Tooling and wet forming is always iffy when I've tried it. You can lose all your definition if you form where you tooled and at the same time if you form first it becomes really difficult to tool on curves. Because of that, if I'm wet forming I don't tool and I don't tool something I've wet formed. I have seen it done, it is just outside my skill set/level of patience at this point in my leathery adventures. By all means, if you do, please post your stuff.

[klutes]

I am wet forming bowls. No tooling and I always dye first. Pro dye.

[GregS]

3 hours ago, klutes said:

I am wet forming bowls. No tooling and I always dye first. Pro dye.

Bowls, I've never thought of leather bowls.  I'll have to take a look.

4 hours ago, battlemunky said:

Because of that, if I'm wet forming I don't tool and I don't tool something I've wet formed. I have seen it done, it is just outside my skill set/level of patience at this point in my leathery adventures. By all means, if you do, please post your stuff.

I can understand how it would be extremely difficult.  I have no plans on tooling a piece of wet formed leather, just asking since it came to mind.

[ScoobyNewbie]

People say I like this, or I like that Battlemunky, but they rarely say why. Could you please tell me why you like the ProDye better then the alcohol dyes? I like water based and waterstain because it doesn’t smell bad or require a vent, plus I don’t seem to have to buff as much.

Discuss. 

Edited February 21, 2019 by ScoobyNewbie

[battlemunky]

@ScoobyNewbie, the pro dye is more consistent and penetrates better for the leather stuff I do. I have the waterstains and like the colors but they do tend to wear off with abrasion and don't ever seem to seal well against water and end up losing dye and staining surrounding things when they get wet/sweated upon. If you like the worn look, cool, but I don't.

The Fiebing's alcohol dyes leave behind a lot more pigment on the surface which require a bit more elbow grease to remove to keep it from transferring onto clothes/skin, also they tend to leave behind a metallic sheen on some stuff that I have yet to figure out how to control.

I'm not sure if the question was for me but that is my answer

[klutes]

I use the,alcohol based dye just because that’s what I started out with years ago and see no reason to change. Sorry but that’s why.

[ScoobyNewbie]

I’ve been told that ProDye really sucks into leather by a couple of people. That it absorbs more. Have you found that to be true as well? I haven’t been around long enough to see any of my waterstain stuff wear or leak from dampness.