Mike1261 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 Hi folks I've been reading all about burnishing for quite a while and have been trying to find my technique for a leather bracelet. I bevel, sand, then use liquid saddle soap and a hand burnisher. The result comes out looking slick and smooth and shiny. But after a day if wear some of the fibers start sticking out a bit and looks sloppy. I read a post on here where someone followed up the saddle soap burnish with a 50/50 mix of Paraffin Wax and Bees Wax and burnished it again with the wax. So I melted it up and mixed it 50/50 and tried that method. The result is a decent edge that almost certainly will hold up, but there is no gloss to the edge at all. I take the excess off with canvas and it looks nice but dull. If I try using some elbow grease with a microfiber cloth the edge kinda dries out and looks awful. What does one do to buff out a paraffin/beeswax burnish and make it look as nice as a saddle soap burnish does? I want the durability of the wax but the slick shine of the saddle soap. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnv474 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 A lot of people use Resolene over their burnished edge. It is a clear acrylic topcoat. However, it is a bit too potent fresh out of the bottle, so it works better to dilute it 50:50 with water. Two light coats beats one thick coat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted May 28, 2019 I'm rather fond of Tokonole for burnished edges. It leaves a nice very slick durable edge. - Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paloma Report post Posted May 28, 2019 24 minutes ago, billybopp said: I'm rather fond of Tokonole for burnished edges. It leaves a nice very slick durable edge. - Bill I do that,too, it's glossy,but i finish with carnuba wax it's even brighter and more durable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 +1 for tokonole. Also, and I think it can't be said enough, the quality of the leather plays a part in how well/easy something will slick up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 5 hours ago, paloma said: I do that,too, it's glossy,but i finish with carnuba wax it's even brighter and more durable. What do you mean you finish with carnuba wax? You use Tokonole and then go over it with the wax? How do you apply and finish with the carnuba? I'm about to order Tokonole. I use black leather and chestnut leather. Would the black and brown Tokonole be good options? Or is clear better? I need it to be color fast. Not leave color on people's wrists or clothing. That's my only concern. That and the brown should ideally look natural on the chestnut. I use Chahin strap leather. Seems to burnish nicely. Similar to my Hermann Oak. My problem with the HO is that the texture they emboss into their leather is very prominent. The Chahin is a better look for what I'm needing at a good price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paloma Report post Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Well, i try to said clearly, so,after using "tokonole" ( in fact i use Tragacanthe gum that i prepare myself it's exactly the same product than tokonole,and i prepare it in gel and liquid ) and after burnishing when dry i use carnuba wax on a cloth and i buffing it with a soft cloth carnuba wax is quite liquid and it's very easy.The advantage of carnuba wax is the fact that it let a very hard and thin film on the surface of the edges it's enhance the glossy and it 's more durable. Yes you can colored the Tokonole with the color you need. Edited May 28, 2019 by paloma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 Thank you Paloma for the clarification. You mention that Gum Tragacanthe is the same as Tokonole - is it exactly the same out of the bottle? Or is it the same as Tokonole after you prepare it in gel and liquid? I have Gum Tragacanthe as well. Is it still worth trying Tokonole or is it exactly the same? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paloma Report post Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Tokonole is the name of the brand the molecule / product is the tragacanthe gum it's a natural gum we use in kitchen too. Yes i make me on 2 form liquid and gel as i need too make if it s for edges i use the gel if it's to make a color morethicker i use liquid. Edited May 28, 2019 by paloma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted May 28, 2019 In regards to the gum trag, from what I understand it hasn't been real gum trag for a long time. There is definitely a difference between tokonole and the current offering offerings of gum trag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thisiszoness Report post Posted May 28, 2019 Mike, Harder waxes will result in shinier edges. Beeswax is soft (relatively) and doesn't polish to a glossy finish. I've started using a product called Columbus Edge Wax; very hard and shines up great with a bit of canvas. I apply it after burnishing with water and tokonole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paloma Report post Posted May 29, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, thisiszoness said: Mike, Harder waxes will result in shinier edges. Beeswax is soft (relatively) and doesn't polish to a glossy finish. I've started using a product called Columbus Edge Wax; very hard and shines up great with a bit of canvas. I apply it after burnishing with water and tokonole. it's exact, Tokonole is o good product water based tragacanthe but it's just good to fix fibers of the leather,it fix and hardener a litle bit leather fibers,after that there are several ways by workers .I noticed that, like Thisiszoness , using a harder wax after Tokonole/adraganthe gum and after bees-wax like carnauba makes the best shynny finish.And more durable. You can use this product https://www.amazon.com/Beall-Tools-Carnauba-Wax-5-1/dp/B0037MM4PC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1ORXDFDATED1W&keywords=carnuba+wax&qid=1559112976&s=gateway&sprefix=carnuba+wax%2Caps%2C241&sr=8-4 or this: https://www.amazon.fr/Carnauba-qualité-Brillant-instantané-perlage/dp/B00IHW4QDK?pd_rd_w=lWvpD&pf_rd_p=a658d894-5bca-4d5c-b618-b473bca5ca47&pf_rd_r=YQ5ADJKGTDBKADKGT2Y1&pd_rd_r=c71921c9-8785-4c9f-8a57-ff8625fa49ec&pd_rd_wg=bj7s5&ref_=pd_gw_cr_simh for finishing operation and you are sure to get:obtain the best results. Edited May 29, 2019 by paloma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted May 29, 2019 Not sure what you have there, but tokonole is nothing like the tragacanth that I have used. The gum tragacanth that I have used works OK for a little while, but eventually the edges wear and fibers come loose. That does not happen for me when I use tokonole, it makes a nice tight gloss edge that stays that way. - Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted May 29, 2019 15 hours ago, thisiszoness said: Mike, Harder waxes will result in shinier edges. Beeswax is soft (relatively) and doesn't polish to a glossy finish. I've started using a product called Columbus Edge Wax; very hard and shines up great with a bit of canvas. I apply it after burnishing with water and tokonole. I'm about to order the Columbus. How do you use it? Do you soften it up before applying or just use friction? How much do you use, can you overdo the wax? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted May 31, 2019 I just tried the Tokenole. Wow what a difference! The Eco Flo Gum Trag from Tandy is a way different consistency. It's almost like the Tokenole is a wood glue lol. My edges on drum dyed chestnut leather look gorgeous with the Tokenole! The Gum Trag was leaving the edges looking a little like particleboard in appearance. Lighter than the chestnut color, with a mishmash of chestnut and lighter fibers. It was "OK" but I wasn't happy. Kinda left me feeling as though I needed to dye my edges, which defeats the entire purpose for selecting a drum dyed leather. The Tokenole leaves a darker more uniform leather finish, the same color as the chestnut dye on the finished surface. It burnishes quickly and smoothly and the canvas shines it right up. I love it! The columbus wax should be here next Tuesday. Will see if I can protect the edge nicely using that stuff :-D I'm very excited if you can't tell LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted May 31, 2019 18 hours ago, Mike1261 said: I just tried the Tokenole. Wow what a difference! The Eco Flo Gum Trag from Tandy is a way different consistency. It's almost like the Tokenole is a wood glue lol. My edges on drum dyed chestnut leather look gorgeous with the Tokenole! The Gum Trag was leaving the edges looking a little like particleboard in appearance. Lighter than the chestnut color, with a mishmash of chestnut and lighter fibers. It was "OK" but I wasn't happy. Kinda left me feeling as though I needed to dye my edges, which defeats the entire purpose for selecting a drum dyed leather. The Tokenole leaves a darker more uniform leather finish, the same color as the chestnut dye on the finished surface. It burnishes quickly and smoothly and the canvas shines it right up. I love it! The columbus wax should be here next Tuesday. Will see if I can protect the edge nicely using that stuff :-D I'm very excited if you can't tell LOL. Glad it's working out for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted June 1, 2019 Hey Mike... glad you tried Tokonole! I just used it for the first time on my last project. It is NOTHING like Gum Tragacanth, no similarity AT ALL... as you have found out. I intend to use it from now on but I did want to mention something about edges. I still consider myself a beginner but I have learned a few things and not everybody has figured this part out, so I want to share it. You have to start with a good edge in order to end up with a good edge, no matter what product is used. Somewhere on this forum is a post by Chuck Burrows (Wild Rose Trading Company)... one of my idols, he has passed now. He tells how to use GT in a manner that I had never tried. I always applied it, let it soak in for 30 seconds or so and burnished it with a wooden tool. Done. Mr. Burrows talked about applying one coat of GT, letting it dry, applying another coat and letting it dry... completely... and then sanding, more GT, more sanding, then a coat and burnish. The GT makes the fibers stiff and stand up when it is sanded. If all your sanding is done on bare leather, the fibers just flex back and fourth, never getting really short. It is also important to use very fine grits. Work up to at least 400, 600 or finer. If you do not get the fibers super short, they will eventually stand up again and make the edge feel rough. nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted June 1, 2019 I hope that I am not out-of-line doing this but I dug out a couple of old pics (from August 2011) that I had saved of Chuck Burrows work. I don't know where else you could see it now. These days the Wild Rose Trading Company is a Sporting Dog store... not at all what is once was. Wish I had kept some of his Indian style beaded knife sheaths. Anyway, here are the pics... If there is anything wrong with me doing this, please delete this post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted June 1, 2019 Those are some good pics. I'm going to try the method you described @wizard of tragacanth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GatoGordo Report post Posted June 2, 2019 Paloma, Would you please explain how you make the gum tragacanth gel. I assume you start with the gum tragacanth powder. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted June 3, 2019 I'm playing with the Columbus wax, but I can't get it to gloss up. How much wax do you apply? What do you use to shine it up? How much pressure to you apply? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike1261 Report post Posted June 3, 2019 On 6/1/2019 at 12:26 AM, wizard of tragacanth said: Mr. Burrows talked about applying one coat of GT, letting it dry, applying another coat and letting it dry... completely... and then sanding, more GT, more sanding, then a coat and burnish. The GT makes the fibers stiff and stand up when it is sanded. If all your sanding is done on bare leather, the fibers just flex back and fourth, never getting really short. It is also important to use very fine grits. Work up to at least 400, 600 or finer. If you do not get the fibers super short, they will eventually stand up again and make the edge feel rough. Thanks for the tip! I do tend to re-sand and try again when I see fibers not behaving how I like, so this totally makes sense to me. I'm struggling to get a glossy finish to my wax at this point. I have a really gorgeously smooth edge and I have SOME shine to it, and probably it's "sufficient." But if I could get it to look even better I would be ecstatic. I'm going to try using a cotton buffing cloth when I get a hold of one. Right now I have denim, canvas, microfiber, but no soft cotton. Maybe that'll do it... My wife thinks I'm being too picky at this point LOL. But I feel like I can do better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted June 3, 2019 37 minutes ago, Mike1261 said: Thanks for the tip! I do tend to re-sand and try again when I see fibers not behaving how I like, so this totally makes sense to me. I'm struggling to get a glossy finish to my wax at this point. I have a really gorgeously smooth edge and I have SOME shine to it, and probably it's "sufficient." But if I could get it to look even better I would be ecstatic. I'm going to try using a cotton buffing cloth when I get a hold of one. Right now I have denim, canvas, microfiber, but no soft cotton. Maybe that'll do it... My wife thinks I'm being too picky at this point LOL. But I feel like I can do better. I have had great luck with bare wooden slickers. I have a holster that is at least 5 years old, used almost daily and the edges are still shiny. But, I agree with your wife. In fact my mind has really changed on this lately. I know that many people like shiny belts and holsters but when I used to wear boots, I preferred rough-out or nu-buck. It's just a personal thing. I have been going for a semi-gloss or matte finish on my holsters, lately. So, I am doing the same with the edges. A plastic slicker will do that... a smooth, barely glossy finish. I have never used or even experimented with any kind of cloth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted June 3, 2019 (edited) Could not get pic of my 5 year old holster to upload on my last post. Here it is. Like I said, almost daily wear for 5 years. This was done with Gum Tragacanth and probably a coat of Satin Shene. Edited June 3, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted June 3, 2019 Denim is cotton..a piece of an old cotton tee-shirt is soft cotton.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites