Best Method to add sharpener or marlin spike to knife sheath

[lawman133]

Hi...  I am making a knife and marlin spike for a good friend and would like input into how to incorporate the marlin spike into the sheath.  Photo's I have researched show either a secondary surface mounted sheath or an 'edge' mounted cylinder type holder similar to the one in the photo for the fire striker.. I am leaning towards the edge mounted type and would like to know how you account for the extra thickness where it is attached.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Jim Ziegler

[fredk]

I would imagine; starting at the left most stitching, across, round the knife, across the back, around the spike sheath and back to the left line of stitching and then carrying on to the right line of stitching. One piece of leather. This would give 3 layers of leather at the stitching area. Skive the two ends and the place where they meet on the back piece and you can get it down to just over 2 thickness worth

[Matt S]

Is the knife for work or hobby? How often will the spike be used, will both hands be available and what are the consequences of losing the contents? Those welt-mounted loops for firesteels are neat but I have always though they look better than they work, IYKWIM. (My firesteel lives in a pocket when I'm carrying one -- how often is it used compared with, say, a knife, hatchet, pistol, phone, podger, spike/fid, GPS, Leatherman, baton, cuffs, gloves, resus shield... you know, things that might actually belong on the belt...)

If you really want to put a loop where it is in that photo, I've done them before. Typically the leather you use for the loop is half that which you use for the welt. Either the folded "double" edge acts as part of the welt (the welt proper starting at the bottom of the loop) or the edges of the loop site "behind" the welt strip. (Note the double line of stitching where the loop sits.)

Attached is a photo I cheekily took from one of Ron Edwards' excellent books. The depth of both pouches allows instant single-handed access and return of either tool while keeping both the knife and the steel very secure. Get the sizing right and I'd bet you'd have a very difficult job making them fall out. I'd probably extend the mouth of the sheath over some of the handle so I could eliminate the snap strap, but that's just my preference.)

[dougfergy]

Going by the picture you attached, for the welt, if you were to use a thinner piece of leather for the welt that you could double over with the loop in between the two sides, once doubled over it would provide the thickness you might desire for the welt and a loop for the fire starter/sharpener.  Might take a few experiments to get it exact.

Here's what I'm talking about: