U Shape Gusset

[aaljarbou]

There is something I don't quite understand about these type of U shaped gussets. Is there any way to prevent the inside make sure the U doesn't wrinkle at the stitches?

I mean, imagine lying the two pieces flat and chiseling them all the way through. When laid flat, the holes line up when stitching and there is no problem, but when you curve the two pieces into a U shape and start stitching, the inside U piece will start to wrinkle. This is because the space between two stitching holes on the inside piece are now slightly shorter than the space between two stitching holes on the outside piece. Does that make sense? Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem?

[Rockoboy]

If the size of the gusset is big enough that a stitching chisel will fit, I would glue the 2 pieces together, (PVA, contact cement, double sided tape etc whatever works for you), then hammer the stitching chisel through on the flat sections and slowly rotate the item so 2 or 3 or 4 holes are punched at a time with a small section of the curve on the flat.

Alternatively, you could use a stitching wheel or stitching chisel to mark hole spacings on one thickness whilst it is flat on the table, glue the gusset in place, then use an awl to complete the hole.

[billybopp]

Leather does tend to wrinkle when you bend it in two directions as in a U shaped gusset.   Some leathers are more cooperative than others.   Skiving can help, but if the curve is tight a relief cut (V-shaped cut) is a very effective method.

Without some special measures, the stitch length will change in the curve.   If you maintain the stitch length on the outside the inside will become shorter, or if you maintain the inside length will become longer.  Most choose a shorter inside stitch, and for some projects that's perfectly acceptable.  There is a workaround that allows both inside and outside to stay the same, but it takes a little work and a little thinking.  You'll mark a consistent stitch length on both outside piece and on the side panel.  They'll match up as normal on the straight part, but when you come to the curve there will be more holes on the outside than the inside.  You'll use a few double stitches on the inside to make up the difference.  Use an awl to make your holes at an angle and hit your inside marks when they get out of line - first making your angle a little forward and then a little backward to make a double-stitch when things get too far out of line.  I can't think of a better way to describe it - but that's what you do!

- Bill

[fredk]

to add my $1 worth; 

a. skive the edge of the gusset and the main bag where it attaches to the bag

b. wet the leather and bend the edge up or down with your fingers.  Usually up as the gusset sits into the bag by the amount of the sewing allowance, but it can be done the other way

c. I like to use a slightly thinner belly leather for gussets as it is a bit more stretchy

d. I glue the gusset to the bag first, then make the holes for stitching

[aaljarbou]

20 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

If the size of the gusset is big enough that a stitching chisel will fit, I would glue the 2 pieces together, (PVA, contact cement, double sided tape etc whatever works for you), then hammer the stitching chisel through on the flat sections and slowly rotate the item so 2 or 3 or 4 holes are punched at a time with a small section of the curve on the flat.

This sounds like the most workable solution at the moment, but Bill's solution is definitely intriguing and I will want to try it out with 1 or 2 less holes on the inside gusset. I will also try to cut out a "V" as suggested in the other thread.  I imagine it works like in the attached image.

 

You guys are the best!

[buzzardbait]

I always wet form my gussets, as suggested by Fredk.  If I am handsewing I will punch the bag parts first, after the gusset has dried I glue it in place and punch my holes through using the holes previously punched in the bag sides as the guide.