Stitching issues on a 3200 with 5-6 oz veg tan

[BDAZ]

Thanks Rocky! I do have a feeling the check spring is a bit rough. I don't get much movement in the spring and sometimes none if the tension is a bit slack. I did pull the check sprin gand check for rubbing and also lubed the check spring tension spring, but I agree it needs attention. Am I supposed to get full travel of the check spring with every stitch?

 

This is the latest test which is pretty close to acceptable.

[RockyAussie]

33 minutes ago, BDAZ said:

Am I supposed to get full travel of the check spring with every stitch?

Yes ...until it hits the stopper every time. I would consider opening up a slot in the middle foot (shown below) as you can see better and it makes the threading a whole lot easier.

[Wizcrafts]

If the check spring is not able to bottom out all the way to the stop bracket's lowest position, the coil spring that returns it must set be too light. There is a nut on the back of the housing where the check spring shaft is mounted. You'll have to wrangle a really narrow wrench behind there to loosen the nut, then turn the split screw until it pulls the check spring all the way down. Tighten up the locking nut and set the stop bracket as needed. Don't be afraid to try different angles to get more travel.

[Gymnast]

10 hours ago, BDAZ said:

No, it's an illusion. It is exactly the way Ryan demonstrates in the video and the way I have been doing it from Day 1. I get a perfect stitch when stitching 2 pieces of 5oz but having trouble with the single.

 

Bob

Yes, it is some kind of illusion to me :). I think I watched 5 other videos on youtube regarding this subject now, and they all looks equal and as on your machine. They all seems to me like the thread do not go between the discs on the main top thread tensioner. So I hope I can learn something too.

With the pretensioner Ryan in the video clearly indicates, that the thread must be pulled in between the discs. But he do not show the same regarding the main tensioner. Are the tension discs different on the main tensioner? Do the thread go around the discs near the outer perimeter of these discs? I normally see the thread commes in around the post, that may be only about 1/4" diameter, and I do not see this happen here.

[RockyAussie]

This video should be of help here I reckon -

 

[RockyAussie]

1 hour ago, Gymnast said:

Are the tension discs different on the main tensioner?

Yes they are. The thread runs around them 1 and 1/2 times and the barrel thing in the middle is restrained by a flat felt or leather washers on either side of it. The more the tension spring on it is tightened the harder it is for the barrel to spin. It used to be a common method of applying tension on the older machines before the came up with the more common modern tension discs.

[Gymnast]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

The thread runs around them 1 and 1/2 times and the barrel thing in the middle

Thank you very much for explaining this to me. The video you found from Solar Leather do also have provide high quality instructions about the check spring.

[BDAZ]

4 hours ago, Gymnast said:

Yes, it is some kind of illusion to me :). I think I watched 5 other videos on youtube regarding this subject now, and they all looks equal and as on your machine. They all seems to me like the thread do not go between the discs on the main top thread tensioner. So I hope I can learn something too.

With the pretensioner Ryan in the video clearly indicates, that the thread must be pulled in between the discs. But he do not show the same regarding the main tensioner. Are the tension discs different on the main tensioner? Do the thread go around the discs near the outer perimeter of these discs? I normally see the thread commes in around the post, that may be only about 1/4" diameter, and I do not see this happen here.

The Main tensioner consists of a wheel with two friction discs on either side. It is designed to spin and I read that some 441 clones include felt washers between the discs and wheel.

[BDAZ]

5 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

If the check spring is not able to bottom out all the way to the stop bracket's lowest position, the coil spring that returns it must set be too light. There is a nut on the back of the housing where the check spring shaft is mounted. You'll have to wrangle a really narrow wrench behind there to loosen the nut, then turn the split screw until it pulls the check spring all the way down. Tighten up the locking nut and set the stop bracket as needed. Don't be afraid to try different angles to get more travel.

What is happening is that the check spring  tension seems to be too tight and the thread simply slides through. If I crank top tension down I may get some movement of the check spring but not full travel unless the top is set realy tight, then I end up with knots on the top of the single 5oz.

[BDAZ]

I did watch this very useful video put the check spring tension spring was properly engages as was the check spring on the hook. 

Thanks!

Bob