Yamata Machine

[CalypsoReCreations]

Hello. I am so thrilled to have found this forum. I have spent hours poring over the information here, and am learning so much. Thank you! I sew handbags, totes, etc out of salvaged sails, horse tack, marine vinyl, and waxed canvas.  I currently sew on a Sailrite LSZ-1 and a Viking 6270.  I push these machines perhaps a bit past their limits. I am looking for a cylinder arm industrial machine that will allow me too tackle some more heavy duty work with these materials.  I found this Yamata on eBay. I am wondering what you guys think compared with the Cowboy CB227R and the TechSew 2600?  This one is cheaper, even though it does require at home assembly. I am pretty handy, and I’m married to a mechanically minded individual. I am not really afraid of the assembly. I just want to make sure I get the right machine for the job. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you !

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamata-GC335-10-Arm-Cylinder-Bed-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-Stand-Servo-motor-/323503216189?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

[kgg]

Since you are on the west coast of the US it maybe worthwhile to checkout other clones like Artisan Sewing Machines ( https://www.artisansew.com/cylinderarmandpostbedmachine.html ). Shipping should be less and closer dealer support. Since this is a fine layout of cash, I would advise you to make a road trip with some of your material to dealers on the west coast. Test ride a few machines and see what works best for you and your work ( new or good used, price, flatbed, cylinder bed, clone or brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder). Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

[CalypsoReCreations]

6 minutes ago, kgg said:

Since you are on the west coast of the US it maybe worthwhile to checkout other clones like Artisan Sewing Machines ( https://www.artisansew.com/cylinderarmandpostbedmachine.html ). Shipping should be less and closer dealer support. Since this is a fine layout of cash, I would advise you to make a road trip with some of your material to dealers on the west coast. Test ride a few machines and see what works best for you and your work ( new or good used, price, flatbed, cylinder bed, clone or brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder). Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

Thanks for the pointers! Ideally, I’d like to spend less than$1,500. However, I’m finding that difficult with the perks I’d like the machine to have.  That’s why this unassembled Yamata looks so appealing. You’re right, though. I don’t want t regret what I buy!! I just went to the Artisan site and will dig around there. Thanks again!

Edited July 23, 2019 by CalypsoReCreations
Forgot to include relevant information

[nylonRigging]

3 hours ago, CalypsoReCreations said:

Hello. I am so thrilled to have found this forum. I have spent hours poring over the information here, and am learning so much. Thank you! I sew handbags, totes, etc out of salvaged sails, horse tack, marine vinyl, and waxed canvas.  I currently sew on a Sailrite LSZ-1 and a Viking 6270.  I push these machines perhaps a bit past their limits. I am looking for a cylinder arm industrial machine that will allow me too tackle some more heavy duty work with these materials.  I found this Yamata on eBay. I am wondering what you guys think compared with the Cowboy CB227R and the TechSew 2600?  This one is cheaper, even though it does require at home assembly. I am pretty handy, and I’m married to a mechanically minded individual. I am not really afraid of the assembly. I just want to make sure I get the right machine for the job. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you !

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamata-GC335-10-Arm-Cylinder-Bed-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-Stand-Servo-motor-/323503216189?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

-

Yamata and buying off Web. like Ebay or Amazon . It is no doubt a good machine and it is not hard to put it together and get running .
( You Should ) get a Tech. to fine-tune and time 'for your application' and for your peace of mind after you get it set-up and running . Well worth paying-$ a hour of his time and see your starting off with good wear pattern and have it running good.
That Yamata ( spec. Sheet ) also might be a little bit exaggerating on the #207 thread and 135x17 needle ( rotary hook ) . (imho) that 207 is maybe? pushing it, and It sure be suited better up to #135 thread size .
-->  Research what presser feet it takes ( are they common ) easy to get . It Always nice to have extra sets to cut and shape to your needs .

Also in that Add Link you posted say's,  FREE 'standard' shipping all way from Florida ??? holy crap that will save you money ...
For that price you buying . I can just about guarantee that they not even looking and touching those machines they shipping out to you. they sending them out in same boxing they get them in from there distributor.
It's a trade-off . You getting a machine that is a good design and will work for you for years ( At Lowest Price ) . But you have to pull it out of factory crate and clean-up, put it together and work the bugs out of it and then get timing set-up to your satisfaction .
--
Artisan ( as mentioned also ) , is good also on there cylinder beds machines or flatbed. and it nice that if you have question or need a part . that all you got to do is call them down in Cal. and you will get a real human being to talk to you .
I have there newer version 12" arm Artisan 3200 and run it for a lot of hours and I got absolutely no bitches about it .

( Machine Repair ) I use/call few guys that off in Portland, Salem and Vancouver for mobile Tech. repair . But You over in Newport on the coast, where/who you call for any Mobil repair over on there ?
.

 

[CalypsoReCreations]

10 minutes ago, nylonRigging said:

-

Yamata and buying off Web. like Ebay or Amazon . It is no doubt a good machine and it is not hard to put it together and get running .
( You Should ) get a Tech. to fine-tune and time 'for your application' and for your peace of mind after you get it set-up and running . Well worth paying-$ a hour of his time and see your starting off with good wear pattern and have it running good.
That Yamata ( spec. Sheet ) also might be a little bit exaggerating on the #207 thread and 135x17 needle ( rotary hook ) . (imho) that 207 is maybe? pushing it, and It sure be suited better up to #135 thread size .
-->  Research what presser feet it takes ( are they common ) easy to get . It Always nice to have extra sets to cut and shape to your needs .

Also in that Add Link you posted say's,  FREE 'standard' shipping all way from Florida ??? holy crap that will save you money ...
For that price you buying . I can just about guarantee that they not even looking and touching those machines they shipping out to you. they sending them out in same boxing they get them in from there distributor.
It's a trade-off . You getting a machine that is a good design and will work for you for years ( At Lowest Price ) . But you have to pull it out of factory crate and clean-up, put it together and work the bugs out of it and then get timing set-up to your satisfaction .
--
Artisan ( as mentioned also ) , is good also on there cylinder beds machines or flatbed. and it nice that if you have question or need a part . that all you got to do is call them down in Cal. and you will get a real human being to talk to you .
I have there newer version 12" arm Artisan 3200 and run it for a lot of hours and I got absolutely no bitches about it .

( Machine Repair ) I use/call few guys that off in Portland, Salem and Vancouver for mobile Tech. repair . But You over in Newport on the coast, where/who you call for any Mobil repair over on there ?
.

 

Thanks for all the info! What a help! I know of no one to call for mobile repair here. I work on the machines myself, but there is a lot of Sailrite tech support via video and customer service. My Viking is pretty straightforward, and I do all the work on it myself resourcing the manual and YouTube. I’d prob have to take any industrial machine I bought into Eugene, Lincoln City, or Corvallis for a serious repair. Also, it Sounds like setting up the Yamata will be more daunting than I originally thought. I need to do some digging and see if there’s a tech in a nearby town that could come help me get it tuned after set up. Still thinking about the Cowboy, though. Thanks again! 

[kgg]

6 hours ago, CalypsoReCreations said:

Thanks for the pointers! Ideally, I’d like to spend less than$1,500. However, I’m finding that difficult with the perks I’d like the machine to have.  That’s why this unassembled Yamata looks so appealing. You’re right, though. I don’t want t regret what I buy!! I just went to the Artisan site and will dig around there. Thanks again! 

What are the perks you are wanting? Personally, if it was me I would narrow down the needs, wants, pros and cons against what you are mostly sewing. You don't want to buy a machine that you are only going to need occasionally. You maybe better off buying a brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder) flatbed machine and then later buying a used cylinder, patcher or post bed machine for the occasional usage times or vise versa. It is going to come down to the best machine for most of your sewing needs since one machine will not do everything.

Purchasing the Yamata maybe a good clone buy, which is based on the PFAFF 335 design, or you may need to become a sewing machine tech to get it running properly. I have seen clones that will sew a good stitch and others that sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. For a couple hundred dollar machine I would expect things not to be perfect. Then after I reach a certain dollar point the machine has to sew flawlessly as well as having a fit and finish equally as good right out of the box.

kgg

 

[Wizcrafts]

From the description in their ad, you are responsible for what happens to the machine after you receive it. It is drop shipped untested in a factory sealed box. You will have to handle any adjustments and repairs at your own expense. There is likely no support offered by the reseller.

[CalypsoReCreations]

6 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

From the description in their ad, you are responsible for what happens to the machine after you receive it. It is drop shipped untested in a factory sealed box. You will have to handle any adjustments and repairs at your own expense. There is likely no support offered by the reseller.

Hi, Wiz! I was hoping to see you here after reading your other post responses! I’m realizing the Yamata is probably not the best idea as I am not a machine tech, and do rely on customer support with my other machines. I sew thicknesses of up to 1/2 thick of mixed textiles (usually canvas, Dacron). Sometimes, when attaching a leather strap, I sew the leather directly onto the Dacron and canvas combined. I use salvaged horse tack (reins, bridles, chest harness, etc) for my straps. I need a machine that can handle the load, but won’t tear the bag apart. I really want a cylinder arm for the roll top finishes on my up cycled sail bags. My thoughts are the Cowboy CB227R or the TechSew 2700. I am also looking at a used Singer 153 B8B listed here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-153-B8B-CYLINDER-BED-WALKING-FOOT-REVERSE-110V-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-/133109582798

There is so much to consider, and I feel a bit overwhelmed. I know that I want a cylinder arm, compound feed machine. Now, it’s just about deciding which is too much power, and which is not enough. Thank you for your help! 

[CalypsoReCreations]

3 hours ago, kgg said:

What are the perks you are wanting? Personally, if it was me I would narrow down the needs, wants, pros and cons against what you are mostly sewing. You don't want to buy a machine that you are only going to need occasionally. You maybe better off buying a brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder) flatbed machine and then later buying a used cylinder, patcher or post bed machine for the occasional usage times or vise versa. It is going to come down to the best machine for most of your sewing needs since one machine will not do everything.

Purchasing the Yamata maybe a good clone buy, which is based on the PFAFF 335 design, or you may need to become a sewing machine tech to get it running properly. I have seen clones that will sew a good stitch and others that sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. For a couple hundred dollar machine I would expect things not to be perfect. Then after I reach a certain dollar point the machine has to sew flawlessly as well as having a fit and finish equally as good right out of the box.

kgg

 

Thanks! I have made a list of things I need out of my next machine. A cylinder arm is what I think will really help and fill the work gap in my studio. My Sailrite can handle a good deal, it just falters on the finishes of my work (it struggles over varying thicknesses and over major seams). I do a roll down top finish in my sail totes. The Sailrite can’t evenly walk the thickness through (even with the walking foot). My Viking handles all my lighter work beautifully. Thanks for the suggestions about the Yamata. You have a good point about paying a dear price and wanting it to work effectively. Also, I think I want to buy something I can have support for. I appreciate all the feedback!

Edited July 24, 2019 by CalypsoReCreations
Spelling

[kgg]

6 hours ago, CalypsoReCreations said:

I do a roll down top finish in my sail totes.

Without seeing your sail totes, have you thought of using a binder attachment with double folded binding material. Maybe using a ripstop type material for the top edge which would give a nice clean edge without the bulk of material that you are folding over. If possible could you post a picture of your bag maybe someone could offer alternative sewing methods that would reduce the amount of material you are trying to sew through which then may affect your machine selection.

kgg

[CalypsoReCreations]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

Without seeing your sail totes, have you thought of using a binder attachment with double folded binding material. Maybe using a ripstop type material for the top edge which would give a nice clean edge without the bulk of material that you are folding over. If possible could you post a picture of your bag maybe someone could offer alternative sewing methods that would reduce the amount of material you are trying to sew through which then may affect your machine selection.

kgg

 

[CalypsoReCreations]

Go to #calypsorecreations on Instagram for better pics. I’m having a hard time uploading on this forum. My file size is too big. Thanks for the suggestion!

[CalypsoReCreations]

It’s in the side seaming and boxed corners these bags get too much for my machine to handle. It’s also a matter of wrangling the top edge through my flatbed machine. 

[kgg]

Looking at your bags and without changing your design or method of how it is constructed I think to make your life a little easier you would need three machines.

1. A machine to do the zig zag pattern ( nice touch) probably continue to use your Sailrite until it dies for that. When it dies get another portable walking foot. To help make sewing with the Sailrite a little more convenient you may want to mount it in a regular size sewing table top and put a servo motor on it. Think of what Tandy did for their Stitch Master.

2. I think a patcher machine would be a better choice then a cylinder machine for your problem areas. The patchers are meant to get into those tight areas but typically they will only sew up to 1/4" and V92 thread. I think a cylinder machine will not get in those tight spots and then be delegated to just sewing straps.

3. If you need to sew 1/2 " of material and leather for straps to the bag then I think you would get better use out of probably a flatbed something similar to a Juki 1508 which can also be used for other parts of your bag construction.

Is it possible to sew the seams, zipper and box corner of the interior that are causing the problem before installing the interior in the bag?

Is it possible to sew the straps to the bag prior to the interior being installed or another method to reduce the overall thickness you have to sew through?

If you can get the overall thickness down to 3/8" the cost of a machine would drop drastically. You could probably go from a Juki 1508 at ~ $2600 to Juki 1541S at ~$1800 or if you want to go with the clones they would be even cheaper.   

Since money is always a big consideration, I would again suggest going somewhere and bring a partly completed bag with the problem areas and leather straps not completed. Test drive some machines see what will work best.

Just my thoughts,

kgg

[nylonRigging]

On 7/24/2019 at 5:12 PM, kgg said:

Looking at your bags and without changing your design or method of how it is constructed I think to make your life a little easier you would need three machines.

1. A machine to do the zig zag pattern ( nice touch) probably continue to use your Sailrite until it dies for that. When it dies get another portable walking foot. To help make sewing with the Sailrite a little more convenient you may want to mount it in a regular size sewing table top and put a servo motor on it. Think of what Tandy did for their Stitch Master.

2. I think a patcher machine would be a better choice then a cylinder machine for your problem areas. The patchers are meant to get into those tight areas but typically they will only sew up to 1/4" and V92 thread. I think a cylinder machine will not get in those tight spots and then be delegated to just sewing straps. 

3. If you need to sew 1/2 " of material and leather for straps to the bag then I think you would get better use out of probably a flatbed something similar to a Juki 1508 which can also be used for other parts of your bag construction.

Is it possible to sew the seams, zipper and box corner of the interior that are causing the problem before installing the interior in the bag?

Is it possible to sew the straps to the bag prior to the interior being installed or another method to reduce the overall thickness you have to sew through?

If you can get the overall thickness down to 3/8" the cost of a machine would drop drastically. You could probably go from a Juki 1508 at ~ $2600 to Juki 1541S at ~$1800 or if you want to go with the clones they would be even cheaper.   

Since money is always a big consideration, I would again suggest going somewhere and bring a partly completed bag with the problem areas and leather straps not completed. Test drive some machines see what will work best.

Just my thoughts,

kgg

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what ( Kgg )  is thinking . tight area and a Patcher .

Over in Portland/Vancouver area there is a used Singer ( 29-4  ) on the Craiglist for 575-$ . You over on the coast but maybe only a half day of your time to checkout .

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/vancouver-singer-29-4-shoe-patch-sewing/6938357061.html

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Edit Add:

I just noticed the Phone # and I know 'ryan' . he easy guy to talk to and knowledgeable on the machine mechanics . 575-$ is a lot for old 29 . it have to be a excellent condition for the price . All depends on how much life still in the oldboy. pics look good though that was posted .

.

.

 

 

Edited July 27, 2019 by nylonRigging

[nylonRigging]

As it was listed as in 'Excellent Shape' and 105 years old, Curiosity got me, So I did go check-out the 29-4 that I linked above because the nicer 29-4's are slimmer pickings to find now in the 21st century .
It Still sewing 5.5 to 6 SPI . It is dull and not shiny, But original paint and decals are thin . Original wooden table drawer and leather strap stop . The hardwood Treadle drive shaft still perfect shape on the original cast table stand .
I really not needing another machine. but you only need 1 guess ? to where it is sitting now ....  LOL
.

[Jeff347]

Thank you all for the recommendations about new Yamata machines. I have used a Phaff machine of varying models for more than 30 years and purchased a Yamata online and began to wonder if I really knew how to sew and then the concern about did I make a mistake buying this machine kicked in.  The sewing machine tech will be here this afternoon to tweak things and I look forward to having a beast of a machine that listens to me! HAHA Thanks again for the validation!

Edited January 18, 2020 by Jeff347

[Jeff347]

The sewing machine repair person just left and the Yamata is running much better but I did learn that the break in period we hear about with a car and never realize is the same thing with a sewing machine, or so he said.  Logically it makes sense... Any thoughts?

[kgg]

All the metal parts are new and some maybe a bit tighter then others. What I did when I got my new machine was to oil all the shafts, bearing, lube points and the ran it at low speed for a bit then gradually brought it up to full speed where I left it there for a few minutes and then reversed the procedure. Then changed the oil and re-oiled all the lube points, bearing shafts, etc. I must note that I don't strictly use sewing sewing oil in my machine. I do use the sewing machine oil in the pump reserve of the Juki 1541s but for all the other parts I use my red neck concoction (7cc's of Royal Purple Synthetic Oil SAE 5W-20 for gas engines and 5 cc's of Motormaster Full Synthetic Dexron- VI Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed together).

kgg