Can you help me understand the difference between the juki dnu1541s and the juki du1508ns?

[Silverd]

I'll advance your advice.  Thank you.

Silverd

[Silverd]

14 minutes ago, brmax said:

Maybe posting a photo can help. I will say the top tension knob is highly unlikely to need much tension. With either style of tension plate offered.  I mean they do make thin tension wire springs, but don't think its a standard issue, rather the opposite. 

Its interesting and a bummer to hear that the tensioner doesn't release. Or did not until your repair. I would call and get a few factory parts in short order. Sure cannot hurt a thing. 

With all the excitement it sounds like your on a good path. 

 

Good day to ya

Floyd

Thank you.  Very good advice.  I believe the machine will sew to expectationso if set up properly.  I'll post some results later this evening.

 

Silverd

[Silverd]

[Silverd]

TEX90 135/ 16.    I must have needle / thread sizing issues going on.  Looking over the stash of needles that the previous owner provided makes me think she was not fully engaged. .kinda like me!  I'll review my needs more closely.  Foe instance, I have a bunch of 17 needles.

 

[kgg]

Looking at your photo's I noticed the the thread bracket tensioner just before the main tensioner (the one with the white knob):

Your photo shows the metal top of that bracket level with the top of main tensioner black body. I would loosen the screw in the left corner and move that bracket so it is at the 2 o'clock position.

I think you have thread the thread through the square hole of the thread guide that is just before the needle. I found it better to not thread through that square hole.

I would check two things with your bobbin:

With the bobbin case out of your machine and laid in the palm of your left hand with the bobbin facing you. As you pull the end of the thread that is on the outside of the bobbin under the bobbin tension spring the bobbin in the bobbin case holder should rotate counter clockwise.

A starting point for bobbin tension is to hold the end of the thread and see if you can lift the bobbin off the palm of your hand so the hold works can hang there with some slight spinning of the bobbin. If the bobbin spins freely and you can't lift it off your palm then add tension by screwing the tension screw for the spring in but only in 1/8 increments. No movement decrease bobbin spring tension. Every time you change thread spools (new or different colour), thread size, manufacturer or type (nylon vs polyester) check your bobbin tension. Bobbin tension will need to be changed when you make large changes in what you are sewing as well as the presser foot tension.

If you could post a couple pictures of the thread from your spool to the first thread tensioner maybe helpful to spot any other potential problems.

9 hours ago, Silverd said:

Foe instance, I have a bunch of 17 needles.

Do you mean 135 x 17 which is for fabric or do mean you need 135 x 16 for leather or the you have a 135 x 17 in size 17 needle?

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

Do you mean 135 x 17 which is for fabric or do mean you need 135 x 16 for leather or the you have a 135 x 17 in size 17 needle?

There is no size 17 needle I've ever seen listed. So, the OP either has 17 needles, or system 135x17 needles.

[brmax]

As Wizcrafts mentioned the needle systems! This was as I recall another new terminology that took me a bit to catch on.  Needles and sizes, well they are still a total separate issue, especially all the designers from afar coming up with their own particular. 

To move ahead, id like to mention I use that square thread guide in helping prevent thread “ many times “ slacking some? how and looping over my tension spring knob. Don't ask me how but i have the same trip with any of my thread sizes of all types. But its posted up here for any tips or answers, it also many times loops my take up lever guard.

In any case machine models can be different in same models from factory, as in some tension lever springs etc..

In a good Friday close I would loosen the top tension as it looks as though the bottom bobbin thread knots are sitting atop screamin give me some cover!

I kinda like the main thread post threaded that way myself; bottom first then around back and forward through top. But more importantly I think is being consistent in whatever choice, as patterns are beneficial.

Have a good weekend

Floyd

 

ps: some old tarp material is sure cheaper for test runs initially. 

[Silverd]

3 hours ago, kgg said:

Looking at your photo's I noticed the the thread bracket tensioner just before the main tensioner (the one with the white knob):

Your photo shows the metal top of that bracket level with the top of main tensioner black body. I would loosen the screw in the left corner and move that bracket so it is at the 2 o'clock position.

I think you have thread the thread through the square hole of the thread guide that is just before the needle. I found it better to not thread through that square hole.

I would check two things with your bobbin:

With the bobbin case out of your machine and laid in the palm of your left hand with the bobbin facing you. As you pull the end of the thread that is on the outside of the bobbin under the bobbin tension spring the bobbin in the bobbin case holder should rotate counter clockwise.

A starting point for bobbin tension is to hold the end of the thread and see if you can lift the bobbin off the palm of your hand so the hold works can hang there with some slight spinning of the bobbin. If the bobbin spins freely and you can't lift it off your palm then add tension by screwing the tension screw for the spring in but only in 1/8 increments. No movement decrease bobbin spring tension. Every time you change thread spools (new or different colour), thread size, manufacturer or type (nylon vs polyester) check your bobbin tension. Bobbin tension will need to be changed when you make large changes in what you are sewing as well as the presser foot tension.

If you could post a couple pictures of the thread from your spool to the first thread tensioner maybe helpful to spot any other potential problems.

Do you mean 135 x 17 which is for fabric or do mean you need 135 x 16 for leather or the you have a 135 x 17 in size 17 needle?

kgg

I'll adjust the top thread tensioner per your suggestion (rotate to 2 O-clock)

Bobbin: 

Counter clock wise rotation of bobbin is how its set-up

I have bobbin tension set way high.   Will reduce accordingly to your suggestion

I only have the needles that came with the machine at this point.  They are the correct size 135 X 18, 20, 22, 23 etc but are mostly the 17 series needles for fabric.  I have an order in for 16 type needles in all compatible sizes coming.   The needle used to sew the sample in my photo is a 16 series. 

I'll post more photos per your request later today

 

 

 

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, Silverd said:

They are the correct size 135 X 18, 20, 22, 23 etc but are mostly the 17 series needles for fabric.

The correct designation of these needles should read: 135x17: #18, #20, etc., where 135x17 is the needle system, and #18, #20, #22, etc are needle sizes (diameters along the shank).

[Silverd]

Thank you.  I have more equipment than knowledge at this point...

Silverd