Ripped Lacing Holes

[CrazyC]

Hey, guys!  I took a rather simple job relacing an older leather Nocona wallet. Unfortunately, I did not discover until I started pulling the old lacing off that two of the holes ripped into one big one in the fold. I assessed the construction thinking I could glue a small leather patch to the inside, punch the holes, and be ok. Unfortunately, Nocona has a lining (polyester?) sewn into the wallet.  I would have to cut that liner out, patch, and attempt to hand sew the lining back in place.  Is there ANY other option I haven’t seen? If not, could this be ok to not have a repair and just lace right through it?  When the wallet is shut, you can still clearly see 2 holes  I had to pull it apart for the attached photo  

I’m really new at this, so I barely charged over the cost of materials making it clear that I have never done lacing before and am a novice at leathercraft in general. 

[fredk]

Is that line of stitching by your finger-tip the stitching for the lining?

If it is, I would cut that stitching with a scalpel, just enough to slip a leather repair patch in past, then use fine thread to re-sew the lining. I would make the repair patch from about 3 holes to the right thru to about 6 holes to the left of the ripped double

[CrazyC]

Fantastic, Fred!  That is, in fact, the stitch holding the lining. I had almost talked myself into that very thing but was too nervous to start. Thank you for being so specific with distances. My patch would not have been that big. I have some 2oz stuff on hand that should work just fine for that task. 

Thanks!

[CrazyC]

Fred: wanted to let you know that worked perfectly. I thinned that 2 ounce so it wasn’t bulky in that fold, and it went together so well the customer wouldn’t have known had I not said anything. Thanks, again!

[fredk]

Thank you for letting me know. I'm pleased to hear that it all worked out fine for you

I hope you'll hang around this 'ere forum now and we'll see some of your work in the future

[CrazyC]

Fred, I’m working on my first belt now. It doesn’t look professional, but I can’t wait to show it off. It’s a hair inlay with oak tooling for my husband. I’d give you a little sneak peak, but it keeps saying my picture is too large. I’m not a techie, so...

[jimi]

Right click on picture-Edit-resize-pixels   example are 2233 then downsize to 900. hope this helps.

[CrazyC]

It would have helped on a computer. I’m on my phone, so I just cropped it. 

[fredk]

a. do a search on here. there is somat about sending your photo to yourself via the phone and that resizes it to a size for pasting it here. I can't tell you more cos I use a photo-editing proggy to resize photos/

b. your thread looks a wee bit too small for the holes and are you waxing it enough?

[CrazyC]

I bought the wrong thread. I had to split it to get it through my needle!  It is pre-waxed with something (maybe paraffin?). I agree that the hole/thread size looks wrong.  As I started pulling the thread tight, it really showed how little that thread was compared to the copious wax that was used on it.  

I bought a beginner set from Tandy with 3mm diamond chisels. The thread they sent with it was even smaller than this white stuff. I can’t wrap my head around these thread, chisel, and needle numbers without holding them in my hands. Right now I can’t get different sized chisels, so trial and error with thread is the best I can do. Any suggestions there on brand, size, etc?  These needles have little holes, but I don’t know what size they are. They just came with the Tandy kit...no label. 

[fredk]

I've noticed that Tandy kits don't seem to give you the bast of anything but charge you top dollar for it.

I have several types and sizes of threads. Currently two of my general purpose threads are 1mm and 0.65mm. Both are pre-waxed and flat in section. I buy my thread from Chinese sellers on ebay. Example below, most of these sellers can supply thread in different colours ~ I have threads in Brown, black, yellow, red, blue, purple et cetera. I like this thread as it is a. prewaxed, b. it lays down nicely when pulled tight

example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260M-150D-1MM-Leather-Sewing-Waxed-Wax-Thread-Hand-needle-Cord-Craft-DIY-Ne-P9N1/143168155306

I have to import all of my leather work supplies. The thread order usually takes 10 to 20 days to arrive with me so I order well in advance of need, ie I keep a stock in hand

I think for what you are doing and to suit your chisels 1mm thread is required. With pre-made holes, eg punched with chisels or made with a sewing awl you need Saddlers Harness needles. For 1mm thread I use John James size 2/0 or 1/0 Harness needles. For 0.65mm thread I use JJ size 4 .

When sewing soft leather and I don't pre-punch holes Glover's needles are needed.  For 1mm thread I use John James size  001 or Osborne 17 gauge, for 0.65mm thread I use JJ size 2

It was all trial and error for me too. I started with the small 'leather' needles in general purpose needle packs and a couple of very large spools [about 1500m each] of waxed Barbour thread I was given. [I still have some of those spools!]

Others may chip in here and give their advice

 

[Rockoboy]

I use John James size 2 needles (not the larger 2/0) for a lot of my hand-stitching where I use 1.0mm Tiger thread or the Chinese variant.

When I am using 0.65mm Tiger thread, I try to use a smaller needle size, but the eye of the needle is quite often difficult to thread. Sometimes I need to use a smear of beeswax to sort out the end of the thread so I can thread the needle.

Sometimes I need to use pliers to pull the needle through, but it's usually only a few holes, then a few are OK, then pliers again for a few.

Ohh yeah ... I forgot to mention your belt. It's looking pretty good for a 1st project, despite your troubles with thread size, stitching chisels etc. Keep at it, you will get it happening, as you improve with each project.

Edited September 2, 2019 by Rockoboy
forgot the belt

[CrazyC]

Thanks, guys!  That’s really helpful. This thread looked stark white until I started working it. Now it’s dingy (and I don’t know why...maybe picking up dye from the leather?), so I’m ready to throw it out!

[Rockoboy]

19 minutes ago, CrazyC said:

This thread looked stark white until I started working it

I always use an extra couple feet of thread, so the 1st couple of feet through the hole can get dirty as it scours out the hole, but the thread in the project (hopefully) stays clean.

I have seen somebody here on LW.net suggest running a thread through holes to clean out dye or gunk.

[CrazyC]

Good to know. I’m glad I tried this thread on this “practice” piece.  Up until now I’ve used black and brown threads, so I never considered that I could have a problem. 

[mikesc]

If you are on a phone..email the picture to yourself, that shrinks it to a size that you can upload to here.

[fredk]

2 hours ago, CrazyC said:

Thanks, guys!  That’s really helpful. This thread looked stark white until I started working it. Now it’s dingy (and I don’t know why...maybe picking up dye from the leather?), so I’m ready to throw it out!

Thats why I keep clear of white thread, 

could I ask, for you to put your locality in your 'profile? that way when we give any advice, especially on purchasing, we can be more specific for you and your area

Edited September 2, 2019 by fredk

[Northmount]

9 hours ago, CrazyC said:

I’m on my phone, so I just cropped it

Tom