Holster for Bersa Thunder Plus 380

[bcraig]

Hi first post here

I came here learn how to make myself a pancake holster for a Bersa Thunder Plus 380 with a Armalaser tr 29 underbarrel laser.

I am wanting to make a holster with some can’t to it and relatively lightweight but secure holster.

 I also would like for the pistol to sit deep enough in the holster that it does not feel like the top of the pistol wants to flop outward from my body,about 40 years ago I had a 6 inch barrel Colt Python that I had Roy Baker make me a pancake holster for and it always gave that feeling and felt like the belt slots were placed too low on the holster.

I have seen some pictures of holsters made from lighter weight leather glued together and curious whether that is better than just using heavier weight leather ?

 I have seen pieces of leather on eBay and curious whether that would be okay for making the Holster from ?

I am only going to be making 1 or 2 holsters so don’t want to buy a lot of expensive leather.

about what size piece of leather would I need to make pancake holster for this pistol ?10 by 10 inches etc.

Any help appreciated very much

Thanks

 

 

[Dwight]

The holster you want to make is somewhat tricky, . . . especially with the laser, . . . 

BUT, . . . using 2/3 leather, . . . glue two pieces, . . . flesh side to flesh side, . . . for the back.

Wet form another piece to the Bersa, . . .  hair side down, . . . carefully form it as close to the Bersa as you can.  Let it dry.

Place a piece of saran wrap over the last piece you did, . . . then carefully form another piece, . . . flesh side down, . . . let it dry.

Contact cement the last two pieces together, . . . sew the whole thing together.

THEN, . . . dip it in water, . . . wrap the gun in saran wrap, . . . and final form it to the weapon, . . . cut the slots, . . . enjoy.

May God bless,

Dwight

[wizard of tragacanth]

You only want to make one or two holsters? Yeah, sure... this is how the madness starts. You can't see it, but we can!

Watch this YouTube video with Sam Andrews, to learn how to do it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k

Can't tell you if the eBay leather is appropriate unless you provide a link.

nick

 

[wizard of tragacanth]

Dwight, I am very impressed with how concisely you described the building process, in so few words. Amazing. Wow!

nick

[bcraig]

Dwight 
Thank you much,I appreciate it
A few Questions for you
Using a piece of precut leather like this the rough side is the flesh side and the smooth side is the hair side?
Approximately how far should the leather that I will cut the belt slots into stick out from the main body of the holster?
 do you think what I am looking for I should use 3-4 ounce leather or 5-6 ounce leather ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SLC-Natural-Veg-Tan-Cowhide-Tooling-Leather-Pre-Cut-Project-Piece/112173155608?

Edited September 9, 2019 by bcraig

[bcraig]

Thanks for the Link Wizard

[JLSleather]

$12+ for IMPORT GRADE ?@#!@!

[bcraig]

1 minute ago, JLSleather said:

$12+ for IMPORT GRADE ?@#!@!

I take it the last word means that aint what I want !!
What do you recommend I look for ?
Thanks

[Dwight]

bcraig, . . . 

Yes, . . . rougher side is the flesh side and the smoother side is the hair side. 

Avoid buying any leather that has a "really" rough back side to it.  Generally it is not worth taking home as you will have to sand all the loose pieces off of it yourself, . . . and they in general do not produce good or good looking projects.  

The holsters you see in the enclosed pictures are good examples of the lines and shapes I use for my business.  But to answer your question with a number, . . . there is always at least 1/2 inch of leather between the stitching on the holster and any belt slot I would cut.  The two holsters you see here, . . . they are closer to one inch of leather.

The holster with the black outside is a 4 layer holster as I told you about earlier, . . . 4 layers of 3/4 leather, . . . two layers bonded together for the back, . . . 2 layers making up the front.  You can see the inside picture, . . . and count the 4 layers, . . . 2 black and 2 natural.

The other holster shows you the flat back that would be made if you use the method I described earlier where you form the two outside layers, . . . let em dry, . . . then bond them with contact cement.  ( That particular holster is made of one piece in the front one in the back, . . . it is 6/7 oz leather. )

You then insert lay the gun down on the back, . . . outline it with contact cement, . . . put contact cement on the corresponding places for the front, . . . glue em together, . . . stitch it tight, . . . cut the slots, . . . voila, . . . you have a holster.

Using the 4 piece method produces a holster that is rigid beyond most folks wildest dreams, . . . that particular holster could knock a person out if thrown at their head with any force at all, . . . it is that rigid.  Single layer holsters are just easier to make, . . . that is why you see so many more of them.

I noticed JLS's post, . . . and he is right, . . . that is a bunch of cash for questionable leather.  If you are only making a holster for a Bersa Thunder .380, . . . decide which way you want to go, . . . I'll see what I have here, . . . may have just what you need.  Just PM me and let me know.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bcraig]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

bcraig, . . . 

Yes, . . . rougher side is the flesh side and the smoother side is the hair side. 

Avoid buying any leather that has a "really" rough back side to it.  Generally it is not worth taking home as you will have to sand all the loose pieces off of it yourself, . . . and they in general do not produce good or good looking projects.  

The holsters you see in the enclosed pictures are good examples of the lines and shapes I use for my business.  But to answer your question with a number, . . . there is always at least 1/2 inch of leather between the stitching on the holster and any belt slot I would cut.  The two holsters you see here, . . . they are closer to one inch of leather.

The holster with the black outside is a 4 layer holster as I told you about earlier, . . . 4 layers of 3/4 leather, . . . two layers bonded together for the back, . . . 2 layers making up the front.  You can see the inside picture, . . . and count the 4 layers, . . . 2 black and 2 natural.

The other holster shows you the flat back that would be made if you use the method I described earlier where you form the two outside layers, . . . let em dry, . . . then bond them with contact cement.  ( That particular holster is made of one piece in the front one in the back, . . . it is 6/7 oz leather. )

You then insert lay the gun down on the back, . . . outline it with contact cement, . . . put contact cement on the corresponding places for the front, . . . glue em together, . . . stitch it tight, . . . cut the slots, . . . voila, . . . you have a holster.

Using the 4 piece method produces a holster that is rigid beyond most folks wildest dreams, . . . that particular holster could knock a person out if thrown at their head with any force at all, . . . it is that rigid.  Single layer holsters are just easier to make, . . . that is why you see so many more of them.

I noticed JLS's post, . . . and he is right, . . . that is a bunch of cash for questionable leather.  If you are only making a holster for a Bersa Thunder .380, . . . decide which way you want to go, . . . I'll see what I have here, . . . may have just what you need.  Just PM me and let me know.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks Dwight
I will send you a pm in a few Minutes