Holster for Bersa Thunder Plus 380

[bcraig]

Hi first post here

I came here learn how to make myself a pancake holster for a Bersa Thunder Plus 380 with a Armalaser tr 29 underbarrel laser.

I am wanting to make a holster with some can’t to it and relatively lightweight but secure holster.

 I also would like for the pistol to sit deep enough in the holster that it does not feel like the top of the pistol wants to flop outward from my body,about 40 years ago I had a 6 inch barrel Colt Python that I had Roy Baker make me a pancake holster for and it always gave that feeling and felt like the belt slots were placed too low on the holster.

I have seen some pictures of holsters made from lighter weight leather glued together and curious whether that is better than just using heavier weight leather ?

 I have seen pieces of leather on eBay and curious whether that would be okay for making the Holster from ?

I am only going to be making 1 or 2 holsters so don’t want to buy a lot of expensive leather.

about what size piece of leather would I need to make pancake holster for this pistol ?10 by 10 inches etc.

Any help appreciated very much

Thanks

 

 

[Dwight]

The holster you want to make is somewhat tricky, . . . especially with the laser, . . . 

BUT, . . . using 2/3 leather, . . . glue two pieces, . . . flesh side to flesh side, . . . for the back.

Wet form another piece to the Bersa, . . .  hair side down, . . . carefully form it as close to the Bersa as you can.  Let it dry.

Place a piece of saran wrap over the last piece you did, . . . then carefully form another piece, . . . flesh side down, . . . let it dry.

Contact cement the last two pieces together, . . . sew the whole thing together.

THEN, . . . dip it in water, . . . wrap the gun in saran wrap, . . . and final form it to the weapon, . . . cut the slots, . . . enjoy.

May God bless,

Dwight

[wizard of tragacanth]

You only want to make one or two holsters? Yeah, sure... this is how the madness starts. You can't see it, but we can!

Watch this YouTube video with Sam Andrews, to learn how to do it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PdKDmcmu8k

Can't tell you if the eBay leather is appropriate unless you provide a link.

nick

 

[wizard of tragacanth]

Dwight, I am very impressed with how concisely you described the building process, in so few words. Amazing. Wow!

nick

[bcraig]

Dwight 
Thank you much,I appreciate it
A few Questions for you
Using a piece of precut leather like this the rough side is the flesh side and the smooth side is the hair side?
Approximately how far should the leather that I will cut the belt slots into stick out from the main body of the holster?
 do you think what I am looking for I should use 3-4 ounce leather or 5-6 ounce leather ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SLC-Natural-Veg-Tan-Cowhide-Tooling-Leather-Pre-Cut-Project-Piece/112173155608?

Edited September 9, 2019 by bcraig

[bcraig]

Thanks for the Link Wizard

[JLSleather]

$12+ for IMPORT GRADE ?@#!@!

[bcraig]

1 minute ago, JLSleather said:

$12+ for IMPORT GRADE ?@#!@!

I take it the last word means that aint what I want !!
What do you recommend I look for ?
Thanks

[Dwight]

bcraig, . . . 

Yes, . . . rougher side is the flesh side and the smoother side is the hair side. 

Avoid buying any leather that has a "really" rough back side to it.  Generally it is not worth taking home as you will have to sand all the loose pieces off of it yourself, . . . and they in general do not produce good or good looking projects.  

The holsters you see in the enclosed pictures are good examples of the lines and shapes I use for my business.  But to answer your question with a number, . . . there is always at least 1/2 inch of leather between the stitching on the holster and any belt slot I would cut.  The two holsters you see here, . . . they are closer to one inch of leather.

The holster with the black outside is a 4 layer holster as I told you about earlier, . . . 4 layers of 3/4 leather, . . . two layers bonded together for the back, . . . 2 layers making up the front.  You can see the inside picture, . . . and count the 4 layers, . . . 2 black and 2 natural.

The other holster shows you the flat back that would be made if you use the method I described earlier where you form the two outside layers, . . . let em dry, . . . then bond them with contact cement.  ( That particular holster is made of one piece in the front one in the back, . . . it is 6/7 oz leather. )

You then insert lay the gun down on the back, . . . outline it with contact cement, . . . put contact cement on the corresponding places for the front, . . . glue em together, . . . stitch it tight, . . . cut the slots, . . . voila, . . . you have a holster.

Using the 4 piece method produces a holster that is rigid beyond most folks wildest dreams, . . . that particular holster could knock a person out if thrown at their head with any force at all, . . . it is that rigid.  Single layer holsters are just easier to make, . . . that is why you see so many more of them.

I noticed JLS's post, . . . and he is right, . . . that is a bunch of cash for questionable leather.  If you are only making a holster for a Bersa Thunder .380, . . . decide which way you want to go, . . . I'll see what I have here, . . . may have just what you need.  Just PM me and let me know.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bcraig]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

bcraig, . . . 

Yes, . . . rougher side is the flesh side and the smoother side is the hair side. 

Avoid buying any leather that has a "really" rough back side to it.  Generally it is not worth taking home as you will have to sand all the loose pieces off of it yourself, . . . and they in general do not produce good or good looking projects.  

The holsters you see in the enclosed pictures are good examples of the lines and shapes I use for my business.  But to answer your question with a number, . . . there is always at least 1/2 inch of leather between the stitching on the holster and any belt slot I would cut.  The two holsters you see here, . . . they are closer to one inch of leather.

The holster with the black outside is a 4 layer holster as I told you about earlier, . . . 4 layers of 3/4 leather, . . . two layers bonded together for the back, . . . 2 layers making up the front.  You can see the inside picture, . . . and count the 4 layers, . . . 2 black and 2 natural.

The other holster shows you the flat back that would be made if you use the method I described earlier where you form the two outside layers, . . . let em dry, . . . then bond them with contact cement.  ( That particular holster is made of one piece in the front one in the back, . . . it is 6/7 oz leather. )

You then insert lay the gun down on the back, . . . outline it with contact cement, . . . put contact cement on the corresponding places for the front, . . . glue em together, . . . stitch it tight, . . . cut the slots, . . . voila, . . . you have a holster.

Using the 4 piece method produces a holster that is rigid beyond most folks wildest dreams, . . . that particular holster could knock a person out if thrown at their head with any force at all, . . . it is that rigid.  Single layer holsters are just easier to make, . . . that is why you see so many more of them.

I noticed JLS's post, . . . and he is right, . . . that is a bunch of cash for questionable leather.  If you are only making a holster for a Bersa Thunder .380, . . . decide which way you want to go, . . . I'll see what I have here, . . . may have just what you need.  Just PM me and let me know.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks Dwight
I will send you a pm in a few Minutes

[chiefjason]

Dwight and I do things kind of similar.  But I use one piece of 8-10 oz for the back and one piece of 8 oz for the front.  Click the pics and you should be able to view them on the photo bucket site.  They went stupid after I posted this. 

 

[bcraig]

3 hours ago, chiefjason said:

Dwight and I do things kind of similar.  But I use one piece of 8-10 oz for the back and one piece of 8 oz for the front.  Click the pics and you should be able to view them on the photo bucket site.  They went stupid after I posted this. 

 

Thanks for the Pics Chief

[wizard of tragacanth]

I finally got around to looking at that link for the leather. SLC is a good company but you are looking at the wrong item. When you buy these pre-cut project pieces, they are good, flawless leather but the cost is high. 

These are more appropriate for making journals, notebooks or such... that is, square projects that will use all or most of the leather. You would waste a lot of that leather making an irregular shape like a holster.

What you should probably be looking at is a single-shoulder. Cost per square foot is lower. The shape is irregular but this should be enough leather to make a couple of holsters out of. 

Personally, I started with single-shoulders, and I think many of us do. Then I graduated to double-shoulders, then half a cow, I mean Sides. Later, I started buying Bends. Really nice stuff.

BTW, the "hair side" is also known as the "Grain", so you don't get confused if you hear this down the road.

nick

Edited September 11, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth
not telling

[bcraig]

Thanks for the info Nick
Bout how much does a single shoulder cost and best place to buy ?

Craig

[JLSleather]

For that pistol, even with the laser, guy only need about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 square feet, assuming you don't have bad spots that need cut out.  I'd be for using 7/8 oz, or if you're laminating as some suggested, I'd probably go with 2 layers of 4/5 (I usually use 4/5 outside and 3/4 inside, but assuming you just want to buy ONE weight of leather here).

Single shoulder is more economical than a cut piece, both per square foot and by shape.  That's still going to be 5-7 feet, which is about 5x what you need to make ONE holster.  Doesn't hurt to have a bit in case of mistake (ask me how I know  ).  If somebody is willing to fix ya up with the piece you need, that's the best buy.  Unless you think you might use the rest of a shoulder for something anyway ...

 

[bcraig]

15 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

For that pistol, even with the laser, guy only need about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 square feet, assuming you don't have bad spots that need cut out.  I'd be for using 7/8 oz, or if you're laminating as some suggested, I'd probably go with 2 layers of 4/5 (I usually use 4/5 outside and 3/4 inside, but assuming you just want to buy ONE weight of leather here).

Single shoulder is more economical than a cut piece, both per square foot and by shape.  That's still going to be 5-7 feet, which is about 5x what you need to make ONE holster.  Doesn't hurt to have a bit in case of mistake (ask me how I know  ).  If somebody is willing to fix ya up with the piece you need, that's the best buy.  Unless you think you might use the rest of a shoulder for something anyway ...

 

Thanks for the information ,I appreciate it

[wizard of tragacanth]

13 hours ago, bcraig said:

Bout how much does a single shoulder cost and best place to buy ?

Craig

Well, you go to the Springfield Leather Company website and you search for Single Shoulder (Craftsman) and you find out it is $25. Here's the direct link. https://www.springfieldleather.com/Import-Single-Shoulder-Craftsman

Now that is not premium leather but it should be good enough for a beginner. The label of "Craftsman" grades is a common term for the lower grades that are offered, but the cost is low and they are perfect for practice. 

The "extra" leather that you get with the single shoulder will probably come in handy. Everyone makes mistakes and must re-cut pieces. Then, you may also want to use some of it to practice making holes, dying, edging, etc. before you make your project. 

Choose the weight of the leather that is appropriate for your project. A small holster may be okay in 6 oz. a medium holster in 8 oz and a larger one in 10. As JLS said, if you use 2 layers, then they would total that amount, like 2x5 oz = 10 oz.

This is just a general guideline. I have made a couple of holsters in 6 oz., just because I had it on hand, and I was not happy with them. BTW, Those were for me. I am a hobbyist and rarely sell my stuff. However, I do give some to relatives as gifts. 

If you get a single shoulder, you will have enough to make a gift or two, as well! 

BTW, if you have a Tandy Leather Store near you, I highly recommend that you go there and look at the leather in person. The first time I went, I didn't even know what veg tan was. It was a bewildering experience. Didn't have any idea what to look for.

I told the woman who worked there that I wanted to make holsters. She was not much help, I wound up with 12 Saddle Skirting. Would have been great if I was making shoe soles! I am not suggesting that poor customer service is the norm there.

You may find what you want there. Since leather is not a uniform thickness, it is usually listed with two weights, such as 8/9 or 9/10. Look for a shoulder with as few blemishes as possible. Look for as little fuzz on the back as possible. A shaggy back is not good. You want it to be as uniform as possible, front and back. They won't be perfect but that is the goal.

nick

Edited September 11, 2019 by wizard of tragacanth

[bcraig]

On 9/11/2019 at 6:47 PM, wizard of tragacanth said:

Well, you go to the Springfield Leather Company website and you search for Single Shoulder (Craftsman) and you find out it is $25. Here's the direct link. https://www.springfieldleather.com/Import-Single-Shoulder-Craftsman

Now that is not premium leather but it should be good enough for a beginner. The label of "Craftsman" grades is a common term for the lower grades that are offered, but the cost is low and they are perfect for practice. 

The "extra" leather that you get with the single shoulder will probably come in handy. Everyone makes mistakes and must re-cut pieces. Then, you may also want to use some of it to practice making holes, dying, edging, etc. before you make your project. 

Choose the weight of the leather that is appropriate for your project. A small holster may be okay in 6 oz. a medium holster in 8 oz and a larger one in 10. As JLS said, if you use 2 layers, then they would total that amount, like 2x5 oz = 10 oz.

This is just a general guideline. I have made a couple of holsters in 6 oz., just because I had it on hand, and I was not happy with them. BTW, Those were for me. I am a hobbyist and rarely sell my stuff. However, I do give some to relatives as gifts. 

If you get a single shoulder, you will have enough to make a gift or two, as well! 

BTW, if you have a Tandy Leather Store near you, I highly recommend that you go there and look at the leather in person. The first time I went, I didn't even know what veg tan was. It was a bewildering experience. Didn't have any idea what to look for.

I told the woman who worked there that I wanted to make holsters. She was not much help, I wound up with 12 Saddle Skirting. Would have been great if I was making shoe soles! I am not suggesting that poor customer service is the norm there.

You may find what you want there. Since leather is not a uniform thickness, it is usually listed with two weights, such as 8/9 or 9/10. Look for a shoulder with as few blemishes as possible. Look for as little fuzz on the back as possible. A shaggy back is not good. You want it to be as uniform as possible, front and back. They won't be perfect but that is the goal.

nick

Thanks for the information,appreciate it