Newbie with a Singer 111w155

[Wizcrafts]

38 minutes ago, vonL said:

Aha! Great info - thanks guys:-) so I should be using 135x16 for leather (with it's various points) and 135x17 for fabric?

Yes. You want to make sure you have round points on hand in case you have to sew webbing straps. Leather slicing needles will break the strands. Ditto for sewing denim. Use round points on woven materials and leather points on animal hides. Naugahyde can be sewn with either type of needle.

[vonL]

Super! Thanks again, this was very helpful advice:-)

[vonL]

I've invested in a sailrite workhorse servo motor, huuge improvement, even more so than I expected.

But, I am having a slight problem when sewing, which has nothing to do with the motor, it occured when using the clutch motor also.

The problem is my machine sporadically produces inconsistent length stiches during sewing.

It can sew fine, consistent length stiches, and then suddenly produce shorter length stiches during the run. Any ideas as to what might cause this, and is there any thing I can do to solve this?

 

 

[Wizcrafts]

56 minutes ago, vonL said:

I've invested in a sailrite workhorse servo motor, huuge improvement, even more so than I expected.

But, I am having a slight problem when sewing, which has nothing to do with the motor, it occured when using the clutch motor also.

The problem is my machine sporadically produces inconsistent length stiches during sewing.

It can sew fine, consistent length stiches, and then suddenly produce shorter length stiches during the run. Any ideas as to what might cause this, and is there any thing I can do to solve this?

This happens when the top thread suddenly gets jammed, or double wrapped around itself, the bottom of the spool, or some guide or post. The extra tension drags the material back, shortening the stitches. The same thing can happen if the bobbin thread binds on the way out of the bobbin case.

[vonL]

Thanks Wizcrafts!

I'll try and keep a close eye on the thread while sewing, to see if I can recognize whats going on next time this occurs. 

It suddenly struk me that the last project I am working on got stuck on the thumbscrew on the plate covering the bobbin

 Might be a good idea to remove the thumbscrew when sewing larger pieces.

Before this Singer, the closest I got to sewing was my mom patching holes on the knees of my jeans. Learing how to sew is really satisfying - as well as learing a new skill (with which I can help others) I'd say there is a lot of mindfullness in it. 

 

[vonL]

It's been a while since I last visited this thread, and not a whole lot of sewing, been busy with other commitments. Anyways, in addition to the 111w155, I found a cheap 111w153. I figured I can have one set up for fabric (denim etc) and one for leather and vinyl.

The 111w153 came with quite a lot of schmetz 135x5 size 18 needles - what is the difference between this system and 135x16/135x17? I tried the web but am still blank. Could someone please enlighten me?

Stefan:-)

[Wizcrafts]

System 135×5 is generally used in single needle lockstitch industrial sewing machines. It is also known as 134R, 135×7, 135×25, 1901, DPx5, and DPx7. This system is shorter than walking foot System 135x16 and 135x17. A machine using System 135x5 needles will have a shorter throw and won't accommodate the thickness that System 135x16 are capable of.

If the 111w153 sews with System 134/135x5 needles and you are okay with its reduced thickness, stay with that system. Otherwise, you would have to raise the needle bar for the longer walking foot needles and make sure the hook arrives above the eye on the upstroke.

[vonL]

Thanks wizcrafts! Yes, it appears to sew just fine with system 135x5, and thickness is so far no problem. And, thanks to Uwe's YouTube-videos I know how to adjust and time the hook and needle should I need to adjust for system 135x16/135x17:-)