226R-1 vs 206RB-1

[Silky]

OK folks, I have a choice to make and request your opinion(s).

If you were to choose between a Consew 226R-1 and a Consew 206RB-1, which would you prefer ? ? ? and why ?

Pros and cons of each maybe ? Are they pretty well equal ? Different years of the same basic model ?

Thanks

 

 

Edited October 8, 2019 by Silky

[JJN]

226r1 small G size bobbin. Top loading bobbin.

206rb1 large M size bobbin. Bottom loading bobbin. Easier to set stitch length.

Both max out with 138 thread, but 206rb may handle 207 thread on top. With price and condition being equal, I would choose the 206rb1.

[Silky]

Thanks JJN.

Were these 2 models manufactured along side each other in the same time frame  ... or did one evolve from the other ?

Just curious,

thanks again

[JJN]

Silky, I imagine there was some crossover as they switched from one model to another. I know Consew/Seiko progressed from their copy of the Singer 111 with model 225 (no reverse) to model 226R (with reverse). Consew then switched to the 255RB with a large bobbin and the 206RB, also with a large bobbin. Consew is the American branded Seiko, made in Japan. Although the 226R and the 206RB have similar capabilities, the 206RB is a completely different design. The 226R is a vertical axis top loading bobbin. The 206RB is a horizontal axis bottom loading bobbin. The 206RB-5 and the 255RB-3 are still being made by Consew in China. So the 206RB-1 is the more modern of the two you are looking at. I have a 206RB-1 and it is a great machine. How much are they asking for machines you are looking at?

[Silky]

Thanks for the info, great !

The 206 is coming up at a local auction. I was considering going up to 4 or 5 hundred if in good clean cond.

Does that seem "ballpark". (I realize condition is key)

[JJN]

That would be a good buy. I paid 500 for mine and feel like I got a good deal. It still looks like new.

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, Silky said:

Thanks for the info, great !

The 206 is coming up at a local auction. I was considering going up to 4 or 5 hundred if in good clean cond.

Does that seem "ballpark". (I realize condition is key)

Bear in mind that most older industrial sewing machines were setup with clutch motors, and that many had larger motor pulleys to maximize the speed (time is money in upholstery and garment production). If the machine you bid on has a clutch motor, and you can't control it properly, you're looking at spending another $135 to $150 for a proper servo motor with a small pulley (example) and the required shorter v-belt, plus the disassembly/reassembly time and scratched fingers to swap them out. Factor this in when evaluating the machine.

[Silky]

That is a good point Wiz, thanks for bringing that up.

Just so happens that I saw extensive mention of this aspect while searching the web.

BTW,  it is a clutch motor. I am a machinist/automation machine builder by trade and have a well fortified shop at home. I have urethane round and v-belting and the necessary tools to weld any length needed. I also have many shafts, bearings and pulleys in stock as well as the materials to make whatever is needed. Brackets, mounting and such.

I also have several Allen Bradley industrial servo motors and drives that would work a treat. They are surplus, about $3500.00 new, but that doesn't matter, they're just lying around collecting dust. Might also use a DC motor with a speed controller. I have several of those from 1/4 hp up to 1 HP. They are VERY controllable from 0 to 1800 rpm.

I tentatively planned on affixing a jack-shaft arrangement to slow it to a manageable speed using the original clutch motor.

I did a 5:1 reduction on a Singer 99 with the original little motor. Slowed to where I wanted it and provided MUCH more slow speed power to the business end. Worked great for small canvas and webbing projects. (surprisingly tough little machine)

Either way. I've got the power plant covered .... the sewing machine is what is new to me.

Thanks again ... very much !

EDIT:   Meant to mention, I also have quite an assortment of the toothed timing belts and pulleys if the urethane type would tend to stretch too much.

Edited October 9, 2019 by Silky

[Pintodeluxe]

A Consew 226 was my first walking foot, and I thought it was the most elegant machine to sew on.  The combination of a top loading bobbin, and a reverse lever that you press down to activate are features I really like.  The only real limitation it had for me was the small bobbin.  A "G" style bobbin is too small for the projects I do with #92 thread.  I've had the 206rb-1 as well and I like them okay.  I don't have the dexterity in my left hand to pop a bobbin in blind.  So for me it means tilting the machine back to change bobbins.  Not a big deal, just not as convenient.  Otherwise, they're bulletproof machines as long as you know their limitations.  

 

I switched to a Juki LU-563 with extra capacity U style bobbin.  A couple add-ons like a servo and box-style speed reducer have made it the perfect performer.  I also converted it to a 190 needle system so I can use a wider variety of thick piping feet without clearance issues.  So in your search for a machine, I would include machines like the Juki 563 and Pfaff 545 as well.       

[Silky]

Thanks to all so far.

Going to look at the 206RB-1 over the weekend.

No one there that knows anything about it as it is part of an estate auction. It will have access to be powered up, but that's it.

Does anyone here have a pdf of an operator manual, or other instructions for this model that they could share ?

I guess a bobbin case and bobbins would be the only "loose" items to look for, provided the basic machine assembly is all there and intact ?

I understand the clutch motor as I have one on a small production lathe here.

I also understand that the motor voltages may vary depending on it's application. Single phase 110v or 220v and 3 phase ... like my lathe.

Thanks for any docs or further highlights if available.

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, Silky said:

Does anyone here have a pdf of an operator manual, or other instructions for this model that they could share ?

I found a user's operating manual for the Consew 206RB, printed in 1978. The machine you are bidding on is a -1, which may put it at 1980. Bid accordingly. The current model is the -5.

[Silky]

That will, I'm hoping, come in very handy !

Thanks again Wiz !

[JJN]

The difference between the 206RB and the 206RB-1 is that the -1 has an oiling system that automatically oils the hook from a reservoir and has a  felt pad under the top cover to supply oil to the bearing surfaces at the top. The only difference in the -1 manual is the last page that covers the new oil system. I attached a pdf of this page so you can add it to the manual Wiz posted.

When buying a sewing machine, I always look at the amount of oil in the lower reservoir to see if the machine has been properly maintained. I don't like it when they are bone dry.

Consew206RB-1SupplementaryInfo.pdf

Edited October 10, 2019 by JJN
added comment

[Silky]

29 minutes ago, JJN said:

When buying a sewing machine, I always look at the amount of oil in the lower reservoir to see if the machine has been properly maintained. I don't like it when they are bone dry.

Thank you !

I did notice on the un-badged machine I looked at and posted about in another thread that the pan was soaked with oil. The fellow said he usually kept a small piece of carpet in there to absorb it as he lubed it religiously. I will check that out when I go look at this one ...... thanks.

Realizing that these machines have no odometer, and some are from heavy commercial use as well as light, with varying degrees of preventive maintenance, is there any area in particular that will typically exhibit the earliest signs of wear ? Like a specific shaft/bushing, linkage or pivot point ?  In other words .... what typically goes first ? The paint and pedal wear is a rough indicator I guess but means less if properly maintained IME.

Thanks again to all for the guidance.