AlexD Report post Posted October 10, 2019 So I recently started leather working about a year ago, after watching hours of various Youtube videos, I went up to Le Prevo to buy some simple supplies and took off from there (My best work to date is attached). At the moment I hand stitch with sewia 3 mm and 4 mm stitching chisels but am interested in sewing machine options, and whether getting one is realistic or not. I live in northern England in a terraced house in a medium to large bedroom, so must be fairly quiet. I'm hoping to go to a local art collage, where i can progress with this hobby and potentially turn it into some sort of business later on?! Also cost is of course a large factor, even though a machine may not be viable now some information and options would be really nice to think through and dwell on. I would like to be able to sew veg-tan as thin as 1 mm (for wallets and such things) up to about 6/7 mm (for bags and many other projects). Now i'm not sure if that is realistic from 1 machine but i'm hopeful. A cylinder arm is a must and a flat bed attachment would be nice but not crucial (I could always make something). Something beginner friendly as I have close to 0 experience with sewing machines, and something fairly quiet. I've found a few options that i think may suit what i'm after: Cowboy 341 Cowboy 227r Techsew 2750 PFAFF 335 (Might not work with the thicker end of what i want to work with) TEXI HD FORTE CILINDRO adler 69 (available nearby 1 hr drive, used for £1200 https://www.castlesewing.co.uk/product/adler-69-cylinder-arm-walking-foot/) Any help or guidance would be really appreciated. Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
battlemunky Report post Posted October 10, 2019 Looks really well made and your style in the tooling is nice! Unfortunately, I have no sewing machine advice other than you came to the right place. Someone with knowledge will be along shortly to help I'm sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted October 10, 2019 Alex welcome -- both to the craft and the forum. One machine to do that range of jobs is absolutely realistic. I think you'll want a compound feed machine (often called a "walking foot", though not all "walking foot" machines are compound feed...) with a servo motor. Sadly flat-bed attachments are fairly uncommon in the UK but it's quite possible to do without, or make your own as you say. However a cylinder-arm is absolutely the right way to go for bags, and a small-cylinder (Pfaff 335/Adler 69/ Juki 246/ Seiko LSC-8) rather than large-cylinder (Singer 153/Adler 169/ Seiko LCW-8) for clearance. In the UK we have a far narrower range of machine available, and fewer good sources of them, than many countries such as the US. However there are many good outlets, you just have to find them! If your budget allows it I would recommend you look for a good quality, used machine from a dealer. Preferably with reverse (not on all machines, especially older ones). A servo motor would be an important feature to look for as it's far lighter weight (good for carrying upstairs), quieter and easier to control than the older-style clutch motor. A needle synchroniser/positioner would be a very handy feature too, as it stops the machine in exactly the same position each time. This will help you concentrate on the work rather than what the machine's doing, allows you to work faster easier, adn makes it less likely to get a thread jam. The price of such a machine would be about the same as a new Chinese machine of a similar type -- around £1000-2000 including VAT from a dealer. However the quality and reliability of machine is far superior, and if you ever sell the machine it will have depreciated far less. (Price of a premium machine of this type, new, would be about £3000-4000, for reference.) Look for brands like Durkopp-Adler, Seiko, Juki, Singer, Pfaff, Brother and Consew. As you say the Pfaff 335, while an absolute workhorse of the fine leather trades, might struggle on the heavier stuff you do. However there are many subclasses of Pfaff 335, some capable of heavier work than others. Adler 69s are capable of slightly heavier work and also very good machines. Castle Sewing is a good, reputable dealer. If you go to them with a list of your requirements and samples of what you want to sew I'm sure they'll be happy to make you some no-obligation, honest recommendations and let you test drive some. (This would be the minimum I would expect of any decent dealer.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) For leather I mainly sew 2 to 4mm veg tan by hand, but I also have a sewing machine. I use this to modify & repair tents, rucsacs & clothing for backpacking, but I have used it now & again to sew thin leather Most large towns & cities have a sewing machine repair shop. Tell them what you would like and they should be able to find you a decent secondhand/refurbished machine at a reasonable price. That's how I got my machine, it's a s/h Janone; £50 about 30 years ago and it's worked faultlessley ever since Home sewing is not as popular as it was. I used to work in a charity shop, and there were about 12 or 15 machines in the back storeroom just gathering dust because no-one wanted them - and we didn't bother putting them out on display for sale for the same reason. So ask nicely and they might let you have one for next to nothing Put the word out among friends, relations, neighbours, colleagues at work (if you've started) or ask your parents to do the same. You might just hear of someone who has Aunty's machine or Grandad's tools just packed away in a shed and waiting for a good home. If you don't ask you don't get. And if you can do minor repairs to cases, handbags, outdoor jackets, put new zips in, and so on, if you spread the word, that will bring in some money Any such machines will almost certainly be for fabric, but a good domestic machine will also handle thin leather. Get one if the price is right; it will do to get you started, and for thinner items, while you look out for something that can sew thicker leather. You say you have no experience with a sewing machine, so this will be a help. And by asking around someone might offer to show you. Also get some books from the library. They will probably be on dressmaking, but the principle is the same In fact if you can only sew thin stuff, consider mixed materials. Search YouTube for 'making canvas and leather bags' and 'making canvas and leather clothing'. Follow the videos and you'll get lots of ideas & inspiration Search Google for 'leather sewing machines', there are several references, including www.sewingmachineexpert.co.uk and www.preloved.co.uk For something quiet, consider non - electric, either hand or treadle. Friend of a friend sews sails, boat covers, and similar boating stuff on a treadle machine as he says it gives him more control. Manual machines are cheaper too. How close are you to going to college? They might have some kind of subsidy or grant scheme; or if nothing else there may be the usual wanted/for sale notice board, and another group of people to ask around Edited October 10, 2019 by zuludog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexD Report post Posted October 11, 2019 Thank you for the advice. I think I might start off with a cheap fabric domestic machine, untill college at least (starting in September) and see is they could subsidise a machine, or something similar. I feel like any experience with a machine is going to be useful. Also are there any suppliers/dealers like castle sewing nearish Newcastle/teeside area? Please could you let me know more about some of the subclasses of the Pfaff's? Or any other options fitting what I want to do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted October 11, 2019 AlexD, this isn't what you asked but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway. If I lived in the UK, I'd give serious consideration to enrolling in classes with Nigel Armitage. Nigel provided "hands-on" instruction in various techniques related to leatherwork. If I lived within a reasonable distance, I'd have already signed up. https://www.armitageleather.com/ Nigel is a master craftsman and a trained instructor. You can view numerous videos of his if you haven't found them already. His saddle stitching videos are great. He also demonstrates a lot of basic techniques, some you might use rarely but will want to know how to do. Thanks my $.02 except to say good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted October 11, 2019 Oh come on, Alex, and shape up! If you're going to college you'll have to learn to do your own Homework/Research/Reading Around The Subject/and so on, and not expect to be spoon fed! I've just Searched Google for - 'Sewing Machine Supplies' and 'Sewing Machine Repairs' in Middlesborough, and Northumberland; and Cleveland; and Newcastle, and got lots of hits - from Whitley Bay to Leeds, and from the east coast right across to Cumbria - Look for yourself! On a slightly calmer note, I agree that going to some of Nigel's courses would be a good idea in theory, but I think you would find them expensive; and more so as he is based in Burton - on - Trent, so you would have to allow for travel and accommodation as well. There might also be an age limit Search Google for 'Craft Courses'. There are other courses. I remember there were some in Bishop Aukland and Newcastle - on - Tyne, but check for yourself. You would still have to pay some fee, and perhaps a better idea would be to look at videos by Nigel Armitage and IanAtkinson. You might also consider joining Nigel's Vimeo Channel, where he goes into more detail, and at a slower pace. It's about £3 per month, but you can cancel anytime Any money you save on course fees you could put towards tools & sewing machine, and this might interest you - George Barnsley was a traditional Sheffield tool maker who ceased trading years ago. But they've started up again, and produce a full range of good quality leatherwork tools at reasonable prices. I have one of their head knives and it's excellent. Just Search Google for George Barnsley. They're still in Sheffield and you might be able to visit them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexD Report post Posted October 11, 2019 Thank you Tugadude I've seen Nigel's YouTube videos and found his videos very helpful, however the courses he offers (while I wish I could) isn't viable at the moment, due to the distance and cost. Maybe in the future though?! Thank you for your advice though! Also thank you zuludog for the pointers on what to research for domestic machines. However what I was asking for was recommendations for some reputable Industrial leather machine dealers. I've done hours of research already on leather sewing machines and barely scratched the surface it seems. I came here hoping to get some help and pointers on a subject that can be very confusing to newcomers. After reading other posts on the subject and the advice given by people much more experienced than me, i feel it's helped considerably. Everyone has to learn from somewhere or someone right? I don't think courses, although very helpful, are plausible now. Thank you for the George Barnsley recommendation aswell, I'll be sure to give them a look! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted October 11, 2019 Alright Alex, my apologies if I was a bit harsh; I misunderstood what you wanted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
