Source of pulleys for tapered shaft

[jpt]

I need to get a smaller motor pulley for my Adler 69. The end of shaft is tapered. Ebay is full of sewing machine pulleys but they all seem to be for straight shafts. Does anyone know a source for ones fitting the tapered shafts (I assume that this is some sort of standard taper)? Preferable Europe (or China if the price is right). 

[Matt S]

College Sewing in the UK sells tapered bore pulleys, but they aren't a direct fit for all tapered shaft motors. Ironically this includes the Jack motors they sell, for which I have to bodge pulleys to fit.

How tied are you to the old motor? Servos start at about £100 and are very controllable.

[jpt]

Actually since posting I've been looking at servo motors. I had a look at the Jack motors that seem to have 13mm shaft, which is a slight problem. I also found another option that has 15mm shaft (I asked the seller): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1HP-750W-ENERDY-SAVER-SERVOMOTOR-FOR-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-Variable-Speed/264426729590?hash=item3d910fb076:g:zEUAAOSwsMZdQBZV 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

These are what typically would be used on older and some new needle positioning motors. Either one should work.

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, jpt said:

Actually since posting I've been looking at servo motors. I had a look at the Jack motors that seem to have 13mm shaft, which is a slight problem. I also found another option that has 15mm shaft (I asked the seller): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1HP-750W-ENERDY-SAVER-SERVOMOTOR-FOR-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-Variable-Speed/264426729590?hash=item3d910fb076:g:zEUAAOSwsMZdQBZV 

It's a slightly awkward size yes. However the servos come with a 75mm pulley, which will will give you far more control than a clutch motor. And if you want to go down to a 40mm pulley it's not a very difficult to modify a taper bore pulley to fit.

I've used several brands of the cheaper servo motors. Jack are definitely better than many, and the slightly odd shaft size is a minor disadvantage.

[jpt]

Thanks. I found the correct pulleys at College Sewing www-pages, but now I'm thinking about getting a servo motor. 

[jpt]

2 minutes ago, Matt S said:

I've used several brands of the cheaper servo motors. Jack are definitely better than many, and the slightly odd shaft size is a minor disadvantage.

This is good to know. Would recommend one with needle positioner: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/jk-563a-1-220v-750w-1-hp-servo-motor-with-needle-position.html 

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, jpt said:

This is good to know. Would recommend one with needle positioner: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/jk-563a-1-220v-750w-1-hp-servo-motor-with-needle-position.html 

Yep, I love the things.  Remember though that not all machines were built with them in mind, so you may need to make some minor modifications.

[jpt]

I ordered two servos from College Sewing. Hopefully I get them sometime next week.

[DonInReno]

I see you’ve already gone to a different motor, but if someone else is in the same boat I once ran across an adapter on eBay that accepted a tapered shaft on the inner diameter and a straight bore on the outside diameter to fit a standard pulley.  There are many different types of tapers so you’d have to know which you have.

You can probably find a hobby machinist with a lathe to modify a pulley to match the shaft for $20.

Having said that I’m betting many specialty pulley manufacturers make tapered bore pulleys.

[jpt]

I received the motors from College Sewing yesterday. It was a fairly easy swap with the old motor using same spacers. Definitely a lot nicer to use than the old clutch motor. I was doing some testing with different speed settings and at some point I hit the reverse and it went all bad then. The needle apparently hit something and got bent badly. A piece from hook assembly got broken as well. To my understanding the timing was right; no skipped stitches or any other problems. So I guess I have pulled the leather in wrong direction which has caused the needle to bend and hit whatever it hit. Another lesson learned: don't try to mimic the pace of much more experienced people on Youtube videos

There is an Adler serial number on the broken piece, but I couldn't find anything with that. I will try to TIG weld the piece together. If that fails then the only option is to buy complete hook+base combo, unless someone knows where to get that particular part.

 

[Constabulary]

I´d buy a new hook. The Adler 69 is using the same hook as the Pfaff 335 - you sometimes find them surprisingly cheap.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Here's the parts list section for the hook guard.

[jpt]

It seemed stupid to buy a whole hook assembly just to get a new guard. As I had a broken saw blade that happened to be of exactly same thickness as the guard, I decided to make a new one. The original was hardened, but I didn't see any reason to harden mine. Furthermore, thin pieces like this can easily distort during hardening. The new guard seems to do its job just fine.

 

While at it I also changed the original 75mm pulley to a 50mm one and added an extension to the control arm to get a bit more travel and thus more control. 

[Joniboo]

On 10/31/2019 at 9:42 PM, jpt said:

It seemed stupid to buy a whole hook assembly just to get a new guard. As I had a broken saw blade that happened to be of exactly same thickness as the guard, I decided to make a new one. The original was hardened, but I didn't see any reason to harden mine. Furthermore, thin pieces like this can easily distort during hardening. The new guard seems to do its job just fine.

 

While at it I also changed the original 75mm pulley to a 50mm one and added an extension to the control arm to get a bit more travel and thus more control. 

Was the pulley easily removable? Was the shaft straight of tapered? Mind telling me where you found the smaller pulley? I have been in contact with college sewing and they told me the pulley is not removable.. very weird

[Constabulary]

1 hour ago, Joniboo said:

Was the pulley easily removable? Was the shaft straight of tapered? Mind telling me where you found the smaller pulley? I have been in contact with college sewing and they told me the pulley is not removable.. very weird

 

What kind / brand of motor do you have?  A JACK servo from CS? They are removable but some have 13mm and some have 15mm shafts - guess how I know.

[Matt S]

2 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

 

What kind / brand of motor do you have?  A JACK servo from CS? They are removable but some have 13mm and some have 15mm shafts - guess how I know.

The two JK513s I have have a 13mm shaft, which doesn't match any of the pulleys CS sells  I modified a 40mm tape bore pulley by reaming it to 13mm, thinning the boss, then mounting it "backwards" on the shaft. The supplied key fits the keyways just fine, you just have to mount the motor 10mm further over to account for the offset belt groove. Oh and a drop of Loctite before tightening the nut. With a 80mm handwheel on the machine that gives 100SPM starting speed (plenty slow enough for me) and it's quite happy with the EPS/NPS. Allows me to run my Seikos at full 2200SPM too :-D

[Constabulary]

I made a sleeve for the shaft from 13mm aluminum tube with 1mm wall - easy task.

[Matt S]

1 minute ago, Constabulary said:

I made a sleeve for the shaft from 13mm aluminum tube with 1mm wall - easy task.

That sounds like a good solution. Did you cut a slot for the key?

[Constabulary]

Yes

[Joniboo]

30 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

 

What kind / brand of motor do you have?  A JACK servo from CS? They are removable but some have 13mm and some have 15mm shafts - guess how I know.

I do not own it yet. I have read om this forum people suggested the JK 563A1 so i asked CS about the shaft diameter/pulley inner diameter and got the response you cant remove the pulley. I guess 13 or 15 does not matter for me. Were the shafts in the motors you got tapered or straight?

[Constabulary]

Jack servo shafts are straight.