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I received the motors from College Sewing yesterday. It was a fairly easy swap with the old motor using same spacers. Definitely a lot nicer to use than the old clutch motor. I was doing some testing with different speed settings and at some point I hit the reverse and it went all bad then. The needle apparently hit something and got bent badly. A piece from hook assembly got broken as well. To my understanding the timing was right; no skipped stitches or any other problems. So I guess I have pulled the leather in wrong direction which has caused the needle to bend and hit whatever it hit. Another lesson learned: don't try to mimic the pace of much more experienced people on Youtube videos ;)

There is an Adler serial number on the broken piece, but I couldn't find anything with that. I will try to TIG weld the piece together. If that fails then the only option is to buy complete hook+base combo, unless someone knows where to get that particular part.

 

broken2.jpg

broken1.jpg

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I´d buy a new hook. The Adler 69 is using the same hook as the Pfaff 335 - you sometimes find them surprisingly cheap.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Here's the parts list section for the hook guard.

69hook.jpg

Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com

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It seemed stupid to buy a whole hook assembly just to get a new guard. As I had a broken saw blade that happened to be of exactly same thickness as the guard, I decided to make a new one. The original was hardened, but I didn't see any reason to harden mine. Furthermore, thin pieces like this can easily distort during hardening. The new guard seems to do its job just fine.

 

While at it I also changed the original 75mm pulley to a 50mm one and added an extension to the control arm to get a bit more travel and thus more control. 

lever.jpg

guard.jpg

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On 10/31/2019 at 9:42 PM, jpt said:

It seemed stupid to buy a whole hook assembly just to get a new guard. As I had a broken saw blade that happened to be of exactly same thickness as the guard, I decided to make a new one. The original was hardened, but I didn't see any reason to harden mine. Furthermore, thin pieces like this can easily distort during hardening. The new guard seems to do its job just fine.

 

While at it I also changed the original 75mm pulley to a 50mm one and added an extension to the control arm to get a bit more travel and thus more control. 

lever.jpg

guard.jpg

Was the pulley easily removable? Was the shaft straight of tapered? Mind telling me where you found the smaller pulley? I have been in contact with college sewing and they told me the pulley is not removable.. very weird

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1 hour ago, Joniboo said:

Was the pulley easily removable? Was the shaft straight of tapered? Mind telling me where you found the smaller pulley? I have been in contact with college sewing and they told me the pulley is not removable.. very weird

 

What kind / brand of motor do you have?  A JACK servo from CS? They are removable but some have 13mm and some have 15mm shafts - guess how I know.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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2 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

 

What kind / brand of motor do you have?  A JACK servo from CS? They are removable but some have 13mm and some have 15mm shafts - guess how I know.

The two JK513s I have have a 13mm shaft, which doesn't match any of the pulleys CS sells :huh: I modified a 40mm tape bore pulley by reaming it to 13mm, thinning the boss, then mounting it "backwards" on the shaft. The supplied key fits the keyways just fine, you just have to mount the motor 10mm further over to account for the offset belt groove. Oh and a drop of Loctite before tightening the nut. With a 80mm handwheel on the machine that gives 100SPM starting speed (plenty slow enough for me) and it's quite happy with the EPS/NPS. Allows me to run my Seikos at full 2200SPM too :-D

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I made a sleeve for the shaft from 13mm aluminum tube with 1mm wall - easy task.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
1 minute ago, Constabulary said:

I made a sleeve for the shaft from 13mm aluminum tube with 1mm wall - easy task.

That sounds like a good solution. Did you cut a slot for the key?

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Yes

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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