Antler handles on leather mugs

[BBL]

Hey guys...

Anyone have any experience, insight or suggestions on how to properly attach a deer antler handle to a leather mug?

I've had a ton of antler on hand for years and I'm tired of leather mug handles. Want something new.

I'm having issues coming up with a good, solid, functional way to do this. Any suggestions are appreciated... thank you!

[maxdaddy]

Well, it all depends on your definitions of 'good' and 'solid'. I've made several mugs using antler handles and after some early experimentation I came up with the following….

Antler choice: First of all, the antler piece has to be 'right' for the job. I've made some with antler pieces that were just so-so, because I don't have a large selection to choose from, and the end result is never satisfying. You should also consider the safety aspect of it and not make a handle that has upward-facing points. It would be easy to poke yourself in the eye if you're lifting a pointed handle to your face while consuming large quantities of beer and not paying close attention.   Also, the nature of antler curvature lends itself to some mugs being 'left-handed' and some 'right-handed'.

Construction: Instead of attaching the antler directly to the mug, I attach it to a patch, that is then attached to the mug. I didn't want the body of the mug being directly connected to the handle and the patch provides a bit of strain relief, or shock absorption, if you will. I've made the connecting patch out of hardwood and even glued several pieces of skirting together to about 3/4 inch thickness.  The typical patch material that I use, however, is thick leather, like 12-14oz.

If wood or a laminated-leather patch is used, you'll need to contour the attaching face of it to fit the shape of the mug since it won’t bend like a flat leather patch will.

Attaching the antler to the patch requires that stitching holes be drilled in the antler and then matching holes be punched in the patch. The face of the antler has to be shaped to the contour of the mug for solid contact.

Once the holes are drilled in the antler and the patch, you stitch the antler to the patch, and then stitch the patch/antler assembly to the mug. That one sentence will likely involve a lot of broken stitching needles and frustration.

Attached are some mugs I made a few years ago, along a few pictures of the process. I haven't made an antler mug in about three years because I don't have an antler source. I'd be willing to buy some of yours if you're willing to part with them and if the price is right.    

Welcome to the forum, and be sure to post some pictures of your handiwork. 

Stitching holes and contoured attaching face.

 

Stained:

This is the first antler mug I made. Note that the antler is stitched to the thick leather patch which is then stitched to the mug.

Second antler mug, pre sealing. This one has a thick leather patch also.

Third antler mug. THis was a left-handed mug due to the antler characteristics. Note the laminated leather patch.

This was the fourth antler mug that I made. It's got a laminated patch too and I had to cut away some of the antler material because of some damage. I stuck a concho and a hanger hook in the space. 

THis is the fifth antler mug and is a right-handed mug based on the antler curvature. 

 

Edited October 17, 2019 by maxdaddy

[battlemunky]

Those are quite badass @maxdaddy.

[BBL]

Maxdaddy...

First, thank you for your in depth explanation and pictures. I have been having issues with antler attachment. I went with hole drilling and lacing directly to the mug, after small drum and belt sanding the attachment points on the antler itself... made for a very nice, solid attachment... and congruent with my mug style... I use alot of lace as I thoroughly enjoy the look.

After sealing, the result is ideal for me.

As I am using white tail deer antler, i have alot of points and curvature to consider.

I prefer to use several "branches" per handle that somewhat wrap the mug... with as few cuts as possible.

I will post a few pictures when I am satisfied.

I tried running a longer antler branch through the entire mug and out the other side to give the appearance of the antler stabbing the mug... it's not ideal, I know. But as a decorative piece, it's very nice lol.

Again thank you for your assistance!

Your mugs are beautiful and very nicely done! The hammered look is excellent!

I like doing the beat up look as well!

[BBL]

On 10/16/2019 at 9:18 PM, maxdaddy said:

I don't have an antler source. I'd be willing to buy some of yours if you're willing to part with them and if the price is right.

Well I do have quite a bit of deer antler currently and my father (retired) works at the Alpine Creek Lodge up in Alaska, off the Denali Highway. He lives there for 6 months of the year and does maintennance and "nuisance hunting" for the lodge... so he will come home with racks of caribou, elk, moose antlers... as well as Martin, beaver, fox, etc... and the occasional full wolf or bear pelt! Yes I'm fairly lucky in that aspect... the ones that dont get sold.

He is headed home in 1 week for a brief period and is bringing alot of antler back. Contact me and yes, I will definitely come off of some antler for you!

A good amount of The deer I get is given to me by a few hunter friends... so I have a good steady supply.

Email is jeffdyrland31@gmail.com.

[kiwican]

Those are cool looking. Can you drink out of those ?

[chuck123wapati]

Those are sweet looking all right!!!  I use a lot of antler for knives and such, when I need to attach something to them I gouge out all the soft insides and glue hardwood plugs inside then I can use screws to attach them or attach things to them.

[BBL]

I considered doing something to that effect but was unsure if it would work or not... 

Thank You! Now I know it does in fact work 

[maxdaddy]

2 hours ago, kiwican said:

Those are cool looking. Can you drink out of those ?

Thanks... and absolutely! The pictures above were taken prior to the mugs being sealed with beeswax. I apply a pretty thick coating of beeswax which makes them completely water, and beer, tight.

 

[kiwican]

Nice! And that's a thick coat of wax

[chuck123wapati]

20 hours ago, maxdaddy said:

Thanks... and absolutely! The pictures above were taken prior to the mugs being sealed with beeswax. I apply a pretty thick coating of beeswax which makes them completely water, and beer, tight.

 

So fill us in on the sealing process and the maintenance process after wards . Do you just heat the wax and pour it in  for a bit or do you heat the mug also? How do you clean them after use? Me thinks those are gonna be a project for many on here.

[maxdaddy]

The waxing technique that I've settled on is:

• Melt the wax in a double boiler setup
• Pour it into the mug and swirl around to get consistent coverage 
• Pour the remaining wax back out.
• Repeat as needed until the desired thickness is achieved 

As for cleaning after use, I recommend that customers rinse/spray with cool water then gently wipe and drain upside down. No soap or hot water. 

The whole process with the wax and the hardening of the leather makes a very solid feel, but the wax is susceptible to cracking if dropped or crushed. I've had to re-wax a few, but have also had some luck with setting a damaged mug in the sun for a while and letting the wax soften up and self-seal. That's worked for small cracks in the wax. 

[kiwican]

Great info!

[archerydude]

I'd like to have a go at making one of these. How is the base sewn in? Also can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

Cheers

Conrad 

[maxdaddy]

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

How is the base sewn in?

The bottoms on the pictured mugs were wet formed to make a 'cup' shape and then shoved up inside the body of the pre-punched mug and stitched. I never got that process down to a consistent repeatable set of steps and each one was a real pain in the butt.  I use wood bottoms nowadays. I made a jig for the bandsaw to cut wood circles with angled sides and that saves a TON of time in the process.

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

If by 'smooth outer' you mean 'no visible stitch lines', then you'd probably want to lap/skive and glue the seam. Then yo could use smaller thread and get a smother look. Mine are butted and cross stitched. 

These mugs were some of the first that I ever made, and since I don't have a source for more antlers, I've considered removing the handles and building another mug for them. I'm sure they would turn out better now that I've got more experience.

[BBL]

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

I'd like to have a go at making one of these. How is the base sewn in? Also can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

Cheers

Conrad 

Conrad... I have had a go at leather bottoms whip stitched on both outside and inside several times, just as maxdaddy specified but had no luck coming up with a consistent process. So I couldn’t make several at a time for multiple customers. This cut into my profit margin big time. I have been doing 1/2” - 5/8” wood bottoms for a while now and it helps create a heavier, solid and easily water (beer) tight bottom. I use small 19s, 5/8” nails every 1.5” - 2”  to keep it secured to the leather. Adhered around the inside edge of the wood. After sealing, the bottom becomes weighted and gives a very nice finished look if polyurethaned or  Polyurethane is considered food safe, by the way.

Use whatever wood you like. I have used several but find that white oak, pin oak and mahogany are wonderful for weight. Poplar, cherry, locust create a beautiful color and pattern.

I have been using Envirotex on the inside only, for sealing if you have a customer that wants to enjoy both cold and hot beverage. But the downside is that it leaves a very high gloss finish and can be extremely messy during the sealing process.

If you want a more natural, “leather look”, use beeswax, paraffin wax or brewers pitch... pitch is a 50/50 mix of pine tar and beeswax. Very sticky when heated.

 

[BBL]

I apologize the string of posts... I think of things after I post lol.

Once the mugs cure fully, some of them become hard as wood! Hard enough to stand on. I guess that also depends on the thickness of your leather as well. Most mugs, I am using a nice thick 14oz veg tan. Armor/shield weight leather. Expensive but well worth it. As I make mostly armor, it’s something I always have on hand.

At the MD ren faire one year, I had one of my mugs sitting on a bench and a rather large gentleman came over and sat down, failing to see the mug. When he stood back up, the mugs shape was still retained. The seal was not cracked. I ran over to get a drink and it was still fluid tight! Successful trial!

Edited November 16, 2019 by BBL

[BBL]

There we go... compressed.

[BBL]

One photo is examples of the various stitching patterns I have used.

The other is an example of Envirotex sealing on the inside.

I have my little process for how I get some of the colors and hardening. And my leather handles are 2 pieces whip stitched down the edges. They are contoured handles. Wide at the top, thinner at the bottom. Kind of sets mine apart from others... which I feel is ultimately what all leather workers want to do. 

But make it yours. Develop your own little tricks and designs. That’s the fun stuff... the experimenting!

maxdaddy, I will have some antler handles posted here very soon!

[maxdaddy]

Those are very unique looking.

Is this the Envirotex product that you use?    https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-128-Ounce-Finish-Gallon/dp/B000LNW022?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000LNW022

 

 

[kiwican]

Love the wood bottom idea!

[BBL]

On 11/16/2019 at 11:27 AM, maxdaddy said:

Those are very unique looking.

Is this the Envirotex product that you use?    https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-128-Ounce-Finish-Gallon/dp/B000LNW022?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000LNW022

 

 

That’s the one. If I could find one that is a satin finish, that would be ideal. The gloss kind of takes away from the look.

My only issue with the beeswax is that I have a very difficult time getting the lining to stay clean. I usually end up with drip lines down the sides on the inside. I am incredibly OCD and even 1 small drip mark bugs me to no end. Which is the biggest reason I have been using pitch.

Is that due to over heating? I also do not like to see any wax on the outside of the mug (other than a very thin layer on the stitching and in the crease. 

Also, sometimes when using beeswax, I will get a separation of the wax from the mug sides at the bottom after it dries and hardens. Another reason I will use pitch.

Any suggestions?

By the way, I am low heating in a pot on a burner. Not a double boiler. Does that make a difference in how the wax sets?

[maxdaddy]

I bought the 32oz Envirotex kit from Michaels on the way home from work yesterday and then made a couple of small-ish mugs and a large shot glass for the purpose of sealing with the Envirotex. My results and opinions are mixed and I'll likely end up making a beer bottle cap table top with the rest of the Envirotex. 

For starters, the Envirotex is not as easy to work with as beeswax. Even with the added necessity of melting the beeswax in a double boiler, I still consider it easier to use for the purposes of sealing a mug. The Envirotex simply takes too long to 'dry' to a point that it stops running and trying to find a level. This is great for the purposes of horizontal surfaces, but no so much for a three-dimensional object like a mug. 

Secondly, I called the folks at Envirotex (and a nice human answered who knew the product) and asked about the safety of Envirotex. Apparently it's only FDA rated as safe for incidental contact with food, like on a cutting board or the outside of a cup for example. She said that it was not approved for direct food contact or lining the inside of a cup. Hot liquid, like coffee, could soften the product enough to cause some of the nasty stuff to leach back out and into the contents of the cup. 

I don't get cosmetically perfect, drip-free, seals but have gotten much better results over the last few years by adjusting my techniques. Sloooooow swirls with the mug almost horizontal is the trick. You can watch the wax depositing onto the leather as you work the 'edge' of the wax up closer and closer to the lip of the mug. Then pick a spot and pour back into the melting pot. That's usually when a 'blemish' will appear in the lining. 

There's a beekeeper here in town that I can buy 10-pound blocks of beeswax from, so that's pretty convenient supply chain. I've not had any trouble with the beeswax other than from physical damage near the opening from dropping. That's the only downside to beeswax in my opinion, it is relatively fragile when compared to the rest of the mug. 

Maybe pitch is a more durable lining? Where do you get your pitch from? I'd love to try it but I'm not sure what kind of pitch to buy that is safe for direct contact with the drink.

The melting technique (double boiler versus direct heat) shouldn't make a difference to the final job. It seems to me that it's either melted or not and how it got to that state shouldn't matter. If the wax gets 'too hot' from the direct heat method I suppose it could be possible that the wax would behave differently, but I don't know. Everything I read on the subject warned about beeswax catching fire if it got too hot, hence the double boiler. 

Here's some pictures of my first tests with Envirotex as a sealer.

This is how I typically do bottoms nowadays. For this one I used some reclaimed rough-sawn barn wood. 

 

[BBL]

Bottoms are beautiful! As well as the mugs

Thank you for the info. Yeah I’ve been on the fence with the Envirotex as well. I’m not fond of the final product. It’s a pain to work with. But I was unaware of direct contact. Can’t sell that in a mug! 

I make my own pitch... 50/50 pine tar and beeswax. Pine tar isn’t fun sometimes. Low flashpoint and sticky. Makes for some real fun if it does happen to catch fire... which is how I lost my last burner lol.

I have ordered “Brewers Pitch” in the past but stopped doing so when I began making my own. The pitch does in fact provide a very durable seal and dries very nicely when applied in thin layers. Then I’ve been using a heat gun sparingly to clean up the outside and heat it to fill in the voids. I like it a lot.

These are the latest mugs I’ve been working with. I call them “corset mugs” as they remind me of miniature leather corsets lol.

I appreciate the info maxdaddy thank you.

btw, the rest of my Envirotex is sitting dusty on the shelf haha. I’ll find something to use it on I’m sure

 

[BBL]