Antler handles on leather mugs

[chuck123wapati]

20 hours ago, maxdaddy said:

Thanks... and absolutely! The pictures above were taken prior to the mugs being sealed with beeswax. I apply a pretty thick coating of beeswax which makes them completely water, and beer, tight.

 

So fill us in on the sealing process and the maintenance process after wards . Do you just heat the wax and pour it in  for a bit or do you heat the mug also? How do you clean them after use? Me thinks those are gonna be a project for many on here.

[maxdaddy]

The waxing technique that I've settled on is:

• Melt the wax in a double boiler setup
• Pour it into the mug and swirl around to get consistent coverage 
• Pour the remaining wax back out.
• Repeat as needed until the desired thickness is achieved 

As for cleaning after use, I recommend that customers rinse/spray with cool water then gently wipe and drain upside down. No soap or hot water. 

The whole process with the wax and the hardening of the leather makes a very solid feel, but the wax is susceptible to cracking if dropped or crushed. I've had to re-wax a few, but have also had some luck with setting a damaged mug in the sun for a while and letting the wax soften up and self-seal. That's worked for small cracks in the wax. 

[kiwican]

Great info!

[archerydude]

I'd like to have a go at making one of these. How is the base sewn in? Also can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

Cheers

Conrad 

[maxdaddy]

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

How is the base sewn in?

The bottoms on the pictured mugs were wet formed to make a 'cup' shape and then shoved up inside the body of the pre-punched mug and stitched. I never got that process down to a consistent repeatable set of steps and each one was a real pain in the butt.  I use wood bottoms nowadays. I made a jig for the bandsaw to cut wood circles with angled sides and that saves a TON of time in the process.

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

If by 'smooth outer' you mean 'no visible stitch lines', then you'd probably want to lap/skive and glue the seam. Then yo could use smaller thread and get a smother look. Mine are butted and cross stitched. 

These mugs were some of the first that I ever made, and since I don't have a source for more antlers, I've considered removing the handles and building another mug for them. I'm sure they would turn out better now that I've got more experience.

[BBL]

On 11/7/2019 at 1:11 PM, archerydude said:

I'd like to have a go at making one of these. How is the base sewn in? Also can you laminate the sides to get a smooth inner and outer?

Cheers

Conrad 

Conrad... I have had a go at leather bottoms whip stitched on both outside and inside several times, just as maxdaddy specified but had no luck coming up with a consistent process. So I couldn’t make several at a time for multiple customers. This cut into my profit margin big time. I have been doing 1/2” - 5/8” wood bottoms for a while now and it helps create a heavier, solid and easily water (beer) tight bottom. I use small 19s, 5/8” nails every 1.5” - 2”  to keep it secured to the leather. Adhered around the inside edge of the wood. After sealing, the bottom becomes weighted and gives a very nice finished look if polyurethaned or  Polyurethane is considered food safe, by the way.

Use whatever wood you like. I have used several but find that white oak, pin oak and mahogany are wonderful for weight. Poplar, cherry, locust create a beautiful color and pattern.

I have been using Envirotex on the inside only, for sealing if you have a customer that wants to enjoy both cold and hot beverage. But the downside is that it leaves a very high gloss finish and can be extremely messy during the sealing process.

If you want a more natural, “leather look”, use beeswax, paraffin wax or brewers pitch... pitch is a 50/50 mix of pine tar and beeswax. Very sticky when heated.

 

[BBL]

I apologize the string of posts... I think of things after I post lol.

Once the mugs cure fully, some of them become hard as wood! Hard enough to stand on. I guess that also depends on the thickness of your leather as well. Most mugs, I am using a nice thick 14oz veg tan. Armor/shield weight leather. Expensive but well worth it. As I make mostly armor, it’s something I always have on hand.

At the MD ren faire one year, I had one of my mugs sitting on a bench and a rather large gentleman came over and sat down, failing to see the mug. When he stood back up, the mugs shape was still retained. The seal was not cracked. I ran over to get a drink and it was still fluid tight! Successful trial!

Edited November 16, 2019 by BBL

[BBL]

There we go... compressed.

[BBL]

One photo is examples of the various stitching patterns I have used.

The other is an example of Envirotex sealing on the inside.

I have my little process for how I get some of the colors and hardening. And my leather handles are 2 pieces whip stitched down the edges. They are contoured handles. Wide at the top, thinner at the bottom. Kind of sets mine apart from others... which I feel is ultimately what all leather workers want to do. 

But make it yours. Develop your own little tricks and designs. That’s the fun stuff... the experimenting!

maxdaddy, I will have some antler handles posted here very soon!

[maxdaddy]

Those are very unique looking.

Is this the Envirotex product that you use?    https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-128-Ounce-Finish-Gallon/dp/B000LNW022?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000LNW022