Juki 563 upgrades/improvements

[campingtomz]

 

I recently bought a Juki 563 for 250$ It works great, very smooth action. Only major issue is the machine runs way to fast for what I want to do with it. Mainly wallets and some other small items. I might try some bags.  Dam it was a lot heavier than i thought it was going to be. 
I am looking for suggestions on how to slow it down I know there are servo motor and a speed reducer. I am wondering what brands/version you guys would recommend. 

Needle I know the needle size(type) is a 135x17, what I am having trouble with is what point type is recommended. For the thread I know it is limited to size 138, is it possible to push it to 207 or 277? Having done some research on this site, it seems like it will not be possible 

Also looking for accessories that would be good for it, Example a edge guide is something i am going to get. I was wondering if there is an attachment that would help me do fabric liners better. something might fold the fabric onto the leather as it is stitching it. (pipe dream i think) 

The sewing table: The only negative aspect of the setup is the particle board table is warping slightly. It is not a major issue, but is bothers me each time I look at it. I was wondering if there are any plans for making your own. I am not sure if it is a standard kind of table. If i kept an eye out on craigslist or something, I could find one or if I should make my own. (try to keep it as cheap as possible) not sure if it is worth the effort vs buying a new top.  I have access to a large format CNC machine I can cut it out with, if I draw the design out. 
Also, for the table I am looking for a push button power, currently it is just a light switch mounted on the bottom, not a major change just me nitpicking. I found some cheap sewing machines on craigslist that come with complete tables. https://cnj.craigslist.org/for/d/woodbridge-singer-107g13-straight-zig/7001719586.html

It is a little bit of a drive but could be worth it for just the table and legs. They look cleaner than the ones for my table.

the next aspect I want to do is a major cleaning and re-painting. So far it does not look to have to much grime or dirt on/in it. It is just personal preference honestly. I saw Vinito's post on his restoration and sent him a message.I am just trying to decide if it is worth it. I like tearing my equipment down and then re-assembling it, so i know how it all works. Since is it working so well, I think ill just give it a wipe down and call it a day. 
Thank you for reading and for your time. 

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, campingtomz said:

I recently bought a Juki 563 for 250$ It works great, very smooth action. Only major issue is the machine runs way to fast for what I want to do with it. Mainly wallets and some other small items. I might try some bags.  Dam it was a lot heavier than i thought it was going to be. 
I am looking for suggestions on how to slow it down I know there are servo motor and a speed reducer. I am wondering what brands/version you guys would recommend. 

I use and recommend the Family Sew FS-550s servo motor with a 50mm pulley preinstalled. It is easy to control down to a stitch and a half per second, or less, if your toe is steady.

4 hours ago, campingtomz said:

Needle I know the needle size(type) is a 135x17, what I am having trouble with is what point type is recommended.

System 135x17 is round point, for cloth, webbing and vinyl. System 135x16 is a leather point of some shape. It could be an oval chisel or a triangle, or a diamond shape.

4 hours ago, campingtomz said:

For the thread I know it is limited to size 138, is it possible to push it to 207 or 277? Having done some research on this site, it seems like it will not be possible 

A Juki LU-563 is not going to treat #207 thread nicely. There may be shreds and skips and knots on the bottom.It totally can't handle #277 thread at all! Fergetit ! You have an upholstery class machine, with reverse, such as it is. It can sew with #138 thread all day. The LU bobbins can hold twice as much thread as the standard Singer G bobbin used in the Juki LU-562.

[DonInReno]

There isn’t anything magical about sewing stands, but there is a reason so many stay close to the same dimensions - that size just works well for most things.

Id recommend using the table a bit until it’s clear the size is too big, too small or just right then make your own top to match your preferences.

For slower sewing a servo is a must have.  A servo paired with a speed reducer is even better - I sew at a leisurely pace so both are must haves for me.

If you’re interested in 207 (277 is not an option) your machine may or may not like it.  It’s more likely to be a problem on the bobbin side and some will sew with 207 on top and 138 under.  Make sure the case opener and clearance between needle plate and bobbin case have clearance for the thicker thread.

Also be aware that not all thread is created equally and some 207 may work and some won’t.  Some 207 doesn’t measure any thicker than 138 so is it really 207? Nylon can be stiffer than poly so even in the same brand this can make a difference.

 

 

[Pintodeluxe]

You can make your own table, which I have done in the past.  I laminated high quality plywood together, then attached Formica with contact adhesive.  Then rout a special sized slot for the T-molding.  Routing out for the hinges adds time, and requires a template.  I had fun doing it, but it cost several times as much as just buying a new top.  I had the plywood and T-molding leftover from another project, so it made sense for me.  

I use a 563 too, and have it set up with a servo and box style speed reducer.  I also converted it to use system 190 needles.  It helped me with a clearance issue I was having between the needle bar guide and the higher profile feet I have for it.  

Enjoy your new machine.  

[SARK9]

On 10/25/2019 at 8:27 PM, campingtomz said:

I have access to a large format CNC machine I can cut it out with, if I draw the design out. 

I didn't want all the particle board dust settling onto the residual sticky coolant film all over the VMC cabinet and getting washed down into the coolant system, so I used a water jet to cut out an aluminum plate router template for the various cutouts I use and cut the actual table holes with a portable router. If you use a "porter-cable style" base guide on the router, remember to adjust the dimensions to accommodate the guide and cutter diameter.  The hinge pad dimensions are variable depending on if you use the ones on hand or if you buy new, ditto the rubber corner support inserts, so some edits to your DWG/DXF file may be needed. Having your own template on hand allows you to pop a machine into any "table of opportunity" you may encounter in your travels or inlet anything you make yourself.

The LU-563 is a great machine and there are a zillion DIY speed reducer designs in the wild you can add to the mix later.

-DC

 

 

Edited October 27, 2019 by SARK9