Moderator Wizcrafts Posted December 1, 2019 Moderator Report Posted December 1, 2019 You can spread a little oil or grease on the brake pad to get smoother engaging of the clutch. A combination of a small pulley and slack before the clutch engages will make the motor much more user friendly. The belt should have at least 1/2 inch deflection in the middle, between the motor and the pulley on the machine, when you press it with your finger. Of course, you don't want it so loose that it slips.... Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members RemingtonSteel Posted December 3, 2019 Author Members Report Posted December 3, 2019 On 11/30/2019 at 11:19 PM, Wizcrafts said: All modern era clutch motors have a big bolt on the right front that adjusts the slack between the brake and the clutch ring. Back out the bolt to get more free movement, then set the locknut. Took your advice and backed out the big bolt several turns, with not much luck. Tonight I backed it out another 1 1/2 turns which I think is as far as it would go, and that helped. Now after about a 1/4" depression on the foot pedal, as CowboyBob mentioned, the break is released before the clutch engages, and I can turn the handwheel, but there is still some resistance. This also helped to slow the startup speed a little bit, and the clutch can now be feather a little as well. I don't think the original owner knew how to make these tweaks, which may be one of the reasons he went back to hand sewing his pack saddles. The needle that came on the unit turned out to be a #25 Schmetz and looks to be a diamond point. Today I received my first few packets of needles - Oregon #24 and #25 794LL. So I ran a line of stitching with the Schmetz #25 (on the top) then I ran a line of stitching with the Oregon #24 (on the bottom). The holes still appear large on the smaller Oregon #24 needle, even though it is the recommended needle size, based on the thread size (277 top, 207 bottom). I do like the way the stitches lay in the stitching grove with the LL point needles. Going to have to try other point styles to find the ones I like best for western holsters. The feet are still marking the leather, but not as bad since I backed off the tension, but not sure how much further I can back it off. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.