Vintage pfaff 335G-h3 stitching problems

[Constabulary]

BTW - when I look at this picture - you probably should install a heavier beehive spring on the tension unit to achieve more top tension - at least I would do that!

 

 

Edited January 12, 2020 by Constabulary

[jimi]

19 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

BTW - when I look at this picture - you probably should install a heavier beehive spring on the tension unit to achieve more top tension - at least I would do that!

Oh! so is that you hot rodding my machine  Yeah your probably right Folker but i don´t usually have that 20´s thread in there.

[Constabulary]

50 minutes ago, jimi said:

Oh! so is that you hot rodding my machine  Yeah your probably right Folker but i don´t usually have that 20´s thread in there.

Yeeeah - bad overall machine you have there (no Singer = bad machine)  **kidding**

sorry - I somehow have not noticed it´s your machine.  I was just scrolling down and noticed the dialed down tension nut so... 

[tibee]

Thanks for giving it a shot Jimi

So it seems like it's going similarly to mine where you have to tighten the tension nearly all the way to get a proper stitch on 5mm+  leather so I suppose that's a bit reassuring but you're not getting little loops like I am so that's a problem with my machine. I appreciate you doing the tests btw.

Is that normal though? I've been told that when you pull by hand the top/bottom tensions should be similar or a little tighter on top but in order to get an okay stitch on 5mm+ I have to tighten all the way and when I pull, it's really tight to the point where the needle will bend.

anyways my issue now is just the stupid little loops here and there. I did a test with #thinner thread and 110 needle but not much has changed.

 

3 hours ago, Maukka said:

Have you checked the needlebar height is right? And play with check spring tightness and position. If it makes any difference. 

I'll try messing with the check spring but I wish I could find a manual for this exact machine because it might be a little different from a classic 335.

I might end up buying a new hook+ bobbin case out of desperation with the hopes that this is causing the irregular stitch

Edited January 12, 2020 by tibee

[jimi]

No Problem Tibee, the tension on the bobbin when i loosened it 1/2 turn was as if there was no tension at all, i mean really almost 0 resistance. Anyway i think you are at that limbo where the machine is at its limit. 6mm thick is very thick for that machine, i do wallets and stuff on the 335 and belts etc on the Singer 45k which can handle thick leather but not too thin a thread, the only problem is that it leaves teeth marks on the bottom side, that`s why for belts etc it is a good option.

[tibee]

To anybody reading this with the same issue, here is the same topic a few years back with great infos which I will give a shot before I decide to take a sledge hammer to my machine.

 

Edited January 12, 2020 by tibee

[Silverd]

Is the 335 the only small diameter cylinder arm machine for leather available?  Its intended for binding applications.  is there a non binding version for instance?

 

 

Silverd

[Constabulary]

5 hours ago, Silverd said:

Is the 335 the only small diameter cylinder arm machine for leather available?  Its intended for binding applications.  is there a non binding version for instance?

There is an arm cover plate which covers the feed dog driving rod or what ever it is called - the thing that moves back and forth and the feed dog is attached to.

this is OEM for the 335

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/91-014643-91-plate-pfaff-335

Or after market:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/113842325012

or as a complete set:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/113979423902

But check your prats list first, not sure about subclasses but I´m pretty confident that they will fit.