Please help with thread and project questions

[Whit30]

Hello,

I have some 2-3oz pre finished French calf side I want to use on wallets, minimalist card wallets and small items.

With this being so thin and prefinished, I intend on buying an edge creaser to heat and press groove the thread channel down rather than cut it in. I have looked and read many posted questions about different thread and uses. I will be hand sewing these and if I need, can wax the thread myself. 

My concerns: wanting the strongest, least fraying thread that will not fray or loose it's strength for years since part of the thread may be exposed to more excessive wear since I cannot channel a groove like I have in other types and thicker leathers on other projects.

I also want the thread to be really color fast since I will be using different colored threads and want these to last a very long time.

Since I will be needing a smaller diameter thread, would a polyester thread either waxed or non and I would wax it myself if it didn't come pre waxed, be a good choice for me?

I will be using several different colored threads for different people so I need a thread that also comes with a good variety of colors.

I'd appreciate any advice or tips regarding thread type and size. The leather is 2-3 oz French Calf, fairly waxy and will be used for all parts of the wallets so parts will have several layers.

Thank you so much!

[fredk]

For small size thread: 0.5 or 0.65mm pre-waxed polyester. It is available in a great variety of colours and even shades of those colours

With 2oz or so I don't mark a stitch groove. I just draw a line with a pencil then use a 'pounce' wheel stitch marker to mark where the stitch holes will be. I can then sew up to four thicknesses of 2oz by hand without pre-punching or using an awl for making holes.

[Hardrada]

Ritza (Tiger) thread fulfils your requirements:

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/thread-sewing/products/0-6mm-ritza-25-polyester-tiger-thread-25m-length-if-buy-5-get-1-free?variant=4340164163

There's also Fil au Chinois linen thread:

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/thread-sewing/products/copy-of-fil-au-chinois-lin-cable-waxed-linen-thread-size-632?variant=1589663747

Both come pre-waxed. You can order a sample card for Tiger and/or Fil au Chinois from that supplier which is helpful in assessing the thickness a given project needs, and which colours best match your leather.

Edited February 5, 2020 by Hardrada

[zuludog]

I can think of a few types of thread that would meet your requirements, and fortunately they are all available from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply -

https://www.rmleathersupply.com

Whatever you get, it should be about 0,5mm diameter, though it doesn't need to be exact

Ritza 25, aka Tiger thread. 0,6mm dia is sold in 25m lengths, or longer. It's very popular, synthetic

Fil au Chinois is a long established, first class linen thread. In the French measuring system, the higher the number, the thinner the thread. Try 532

The Chinese Yue Fung Company make excellent linen and synthetic thread. It is sold by RMLS under their own brand, 'Twist'

Twist linen This is very good, I'd say as good as FauC

Twist polyester. This is also very good. I prefer it to Tiger thread as it has more of a round cross section; Tiger is flatter, more like very narrow tape

I think all these are pre - waxed, but feel free to give them an extra rub if you wish. And there is a wide range of colours in all of them

Linen or synthetic? Synthetic/polyester is less liable to fray, and you can finish the stitching by melting the ends of the thread. But some people prefer the appearance and feel of linen

A lot of this comes down to personal preference, and I'm afraid the only way for you to find out is to try them. Ask nicely and they might send you some samples; they also have sample cards

Oh all right then! If I was pushed, my choice would be for Twist poly.

Incidentally, I no longer us a stitching groover for any of my leatherwork. I simply mark the line of the stitching with dividers

Edited, an hour or so later -

Search YouTube for 'making leather wallets'; there are lots of videos. They probably won't list the thread used, but if you look carefully you can get an idea of the thickness of thread used, and the resulting stitching

Edited February 5, 2020 by zuludog

[Whit30]

Thank you everyone for all of the tips and advice!