attaching brass shell casings

[Gremlin]

I have seen some saddlebags and tank bibs with spent (empty/used) brass shell casings attached but didn't get the chance to see how they were attached. The casings I saw were .45s but I suspect the method would be the same for any reasonable size shell.

Has anyone here done this and how is it done?

Thanks folks.

[Luke Hatley]

the way i attach the casins is just make bullet loops

either sew the loops on like you would on a cartridge

belt. i will try to add this photo of a guitar strap, with

.45's on it

[Gremlin]

Thanks Luke but that's not what meant. My bad tho, I wasn't clear on what I wanted to do.

The only part of the casing that shows is the bottom. It's almost like a spot, concho, or rivet that lays flat on the leather with the primer, caliber, and company name on it.

[Luke Hatley]

Thanks Luke but that's not what meant. My bad tho, I wasn't clear on what I wanted to do.

The only part of the casing that shows is the bottom. It's almost like a spot, concho, or rivet that lays flat on the leather with the primer, caliber, and company name on it.

I think that you are wanting a type of Concho Right.

if so you will have to use a Hack Saw or your choice of a Metal

cutting saw. Then sand the cut edges smothe.

Now the fun part..soider A RIVET POST IN THE HEAD OF THE SHELL

THAT YOU CUT OFF, THEN JUST RIVET THIS TO THE LEATHER.

HOPE THIS IS THE RIGHT ANSWER.

[greg gomersall]

Gremlin if you try getting ahold of Standard Rivet Company or Timco I am pretty sure they make a pronged type of harness spot that resembles the primer end of a shell casing. Greg

[Gremlin]

Thanks Luke and Greg.

Luke, I thought of that but am concerned about discoloration and weakening of the post from the heat.

Greg, I will contact Standard and Timco to find out. I'll post what I find here.

Thanks again guys.

[Dragons Pearl]

Could you just cut off the case a little longer than the thickness of the leather then cut slits in the side, put it through a hole (course it would have to be the same size as the case which may be a problem) then lay over the case on the back side of the piece?

[ETW Grumpy]

Hey Luke, are those live shells on that guitar strap? I'm about to incorporate something similar into a seat and I was wondering if you used live shells, or dumped the powder out or got dummies or what.

[Art]

Tandy made some of those and I do have some around here, but who knows where. Anyway you could make your own, I would pull the bullets, dump out powder, fill cases with WD-40 and leave for a couple days. Test by trying to fire a primer and trying to heat with torch, take precautions for the shell exploding and fragmenting if the primer is not dead, but WD-40 almost always kills them. Saw off the case head with a dremel or on the lathe. Clean them up and put a fair size piece of solder in each one. Solder on a rivet head, post head, or whatever will fit into the head. Do absolutely at your own risk. I shure wouldn't go to all that trouble (especially if you need more than just a couple) if I could find some already made by someone. If you want them made for you, get ahold of Harold at Texhas Harold@texhas.com by email. I know he has a 1" shotgun shell base concho but that is all I've seen.

Art

I have seen some saddlebags and tank bibs with spent (empty/used) brass shell casings attached but didn't get the chance to see how they were attached. The casings I saw were .45s but I suspect the method would be the same for any reasonable size shell.

Has anyone here done this and how is it done?

Thanks folks.

[Luke Hatley]

Hey Luke, are those live shells on that guitar strap? I'm about to incorporate something similar into a seat and I was wondering if you used live shells, or dumped the powder out or got dummies or what.

Hey Grumpy, Thanks for looking. Those are re loads with no live primer.

Could have took Live shells apart but found these on e bay cheaper than i could do.

Srtap was made for a Guitar Rocker in the band "SONS OF THE SOUTH" they

play here in Memphis.

[Chipperi]

Just to be safe, I have seen primers detonate even after getting oil in them, even though oil is suppose to de activate them. Go to a gunshop that carries reloading supplies and buy some nice new shiny brass, or you can go to one of a million online stores like http://www.winchester.com or http://www.midwayusa.com

Edited September 14, 2007 by Chipperi

[Chitin]

Could you just cut off the case a little longer than the thickness of the leather then cut slits in the side, put it through a hole (course it would have to be the same size as the case which may be a problem) then lay over the case on the back side of the piece?

This is what I was going to suggest. Do it like you'd do an eyelet.

[Brandon]

Could you just cut off the case a little longer than the thickness of the leather then cut slits in the side, put it through a hole (course it would have to be the same size as the case which may be a problem) then lay over the case on the back side of the piece?

Friend told me he made key fobs with that method.

[sheathmaker]

Depending on the calibre or guage you might consider depriming the cases and attach using a #206 double cap rivet from Ohio Travel Bag. If it works for size, the rivet would resemble a new primer. This also assumes you are going to cut the case head off very short so as to resemble a concho or spot. You will probably also have to enlarge the actual primer hole with a drill to accomodate the rivet post.

Paul

Edited September 22, 2007 by sheathmaker

[Mike Phelps]

Read through this thread and there are some interesting suggestions. Number one is using fired casings. Don't want to work on any live rounds. There are couple of types of bullet pullers out there the cheapest being a kinetic bullet puller but your still left with the issue of live primers and they can put an eye out or put some serious burns on it. Heres a good one for you. When primers are manufactured they put a drop of lacquer on the priming compound to protect it from moisture and extend the shelf life so I'd be kind of iffy about using that WD40 trick.Too expensive, too dangerous. I've been a competitive shooter for decades so I've got a world of experience working with this stuff.

If you use rifle casings, GI ammo manufactured for multi use in small arms and light machine guns have a thick base. NRA Service Rifle Match competitors will have those. All 30-06 and 308 brass is supposed to meet the same specs but I've weighed enough of to know that the GI brass is heavier in the anvil area with those with the designation of LC [Lake City] are heavier still. They will usually have some that are past their reloadable life and will give you some. Or if you know someone in the National Guard they might turn you on to some. They usually have to turn in all spent rounds but they usually can find a few loose ones. The base of those are just thick enough you can drill a hole and using a tap thread it for your concho or Chicago screw, Then just file off the top of the screw even with the shell case base.

Oh and when you go to saw off the cases, your little Dremel Tool with cut off wheels will work but they are fragile and fly apart and you can only cut one or two cases with each one so use a hacksaw with the absolute MOST teeth per inch you can get. At least 32, more if you can find them. If you have a jewelers saw a size 12 or 14 will do an excellent job. The blades ore fragile so don't but any pressure on them, let the saw do the work.

[sheathmaker]

An update on my last reply. I just received a flyer from Tandy/Leather factory and they have a 12 ga. shot shell concho stock nr. 7403-00 and what apears to be either 9MM or 45ACP screw bak concho, stock nr. 7404-00. It is the entire round, case and bullet.

Paul

Edited September 26, 2007 by sheathmaker

[Luke Hatley]

I saw them in person today and they looked very good.

[gearsmithy]

You mean like this?

Lots of trial and error! I've tried every method under the sun. The best way I've found is to use a .40 and a .45 spent shell casing. Here's how I did the one above:

1. Go to the shooting range and find some spent .45 and spent .40 shell casings (you'll need a bunch of the .40 calibur).

2. take a scrap piece of leather and hammer the .40 casing through it (like a punch). The diameter of the .40 is just perfect to hold the lip of a .45.

3. push the .45 through the hole you just made in the leather.

4. use a dremil with a cutting bit to carefully cut off the "barrel" of the casing (all the way to the bottom arrow in the pic below). be sure to keep the "lip" in tact. You can do this by folding the leather over and pinching it in a vice, or just hold it with your hand (BE CAREFUL!)

5. This will leave you with a "button" shell casing

6. Now take your project and pound a NEW .40 casing through the spot where you want to attach the casing like you did in 1. Be sure to use a new .40 casing as they tend to warp in the process.

7. Push the "button" through the new hole from the back side of the project piece.

8. slobber some glue on the back and if you like add a thin piece of cloth for strength.

9. line the leather to cover up the backside and there you have it.

This gives a nice effect, here's what a finished piece looks like with the shells embedded:

Hope this helps!

[Gremlin]

Bingo!! We have a winner!! Thanks gearsmithy. Exactly where I've been headed as well. You've saved me a few steps in the experimentation. Nothing else seemed to work to my satisfaction. Since I want to use 9mm casings, I'm going to get the metal shop at work to make me a punch for the right size (If I don't already have one somewhere).

As for cutting the tube, I am using a mini pipe cutter from Home Depot. Works like a charm.

BTW, the bag you show here is one of the items I saw that got me interested in trying this. Nicely done. Think I saw that CC.

[gearsmithy]

Glad to help! I just found this forum since I usually post on CC. Have fun and be sure to post pics!