attaching brass shell casings

[Chipperi]

Just to be safe, I have seen primers detonate even after getting oil in them, even though oil is suppose to de activate them. Go to a gunshop that carries reloading supplies and buy some nice new shiny brass, or you can go to one of a million online stores like http://www.winchester.com or http://www.midwayusa.com

Edited September 14, 2007 by Chipperi

[Chitin]

Could you just cut off the case a little longer than the thickness of the leather then cut slits in the side, put it through a hole (course it would have to be the same size as the case which may be a problem) then lay over the case on the back side of the piece?

This is what I was going to suggest. Do it like you'd do an eyelet.

[Brandon]

Could you just cut off the case a little longer than the thickness of the leather then cut slits in the side, put it through a hole (course it would have to be the same size as the case which may be a problem) then lay over the case on the back side of the piece?

Friend told me he made key fobs with that method.

[sheathmaker]

Depending on the calibre or guage you might consider depriming the cases and attach using a #206 double cap rivet from Ohio Travel Bag. If it works for size, the rivet would resemble a new primer. This also assumes you are going to cut the case head off very short so as to resemble a concho or spot. You will probably also have to enlarge the actual primer hole with a drill to accomodate the rivet post.

Paul

Edited September 22, 2007 by sheathmaker

[Mike Phelps]

Read through this thread and there are some interesting suggestions. Number one is using fired casings. Don't want to work on any live rounds. There are couple of types of bullet pullers out there the cheapest being a kinetic bullet puller but your still left with the issue of live primers and they can put an eye out or put some serious burns on it. Heres a good one for you. When primers are manufactured they put a drop of lacquer on the priming compound to protect it from moisture and extend the shelf life so I'd be kind of iffy about using that WD40 trick.Too expensive, too dangerous. I've been a competitive shooter for decades so I've got a world of experience working with this stuff.

If you use rifle casings, GI ammo manufactured for multi use in small arms and light machine guns have a thick base. NRA Service Rifle Match competitors will have those. All 30-06 and 308 brass is supposed to meet the same specs but I've weighed enough of to know that the GI brass is heavier in the anvil area with those with the designation of LC [Lake City] are heavier still. They will usually have some that are past their reloadable life and will give you some. Or if you know someone in the National Guard they might turn you on to some. They usually have to turn in all spent rounds but they usually can find a few loose ones. The base of those are just thick enough you can drill a hole and using a tap thread it for your concho or Chicago screw, Then just file off the top of the screw even with the shell case base.

Oh and when you go to saw off the cases, your little Dremel Tool with cut off wheels will work but they are fragile and fly apart and you can only cut one or two cases with each one so use a hacksaw with the absolute MOST teeth per inch you can get. At least 32, more if you can find them. If you have a jewelers saw a size 12 or 14 will do an excellent job. The blades ore fragile so don't but any pressure on them, let the saw do the work.

[sheathmaker]

An update on my last reply. I just received a flyer from Tandy/Leather factory and they have a 12 ga. shot shell concho stock nr. 7403-00 and what apears to be either 9MM or 45ACP screw bak concho, stock nr. 7404-00. It is the entire round, case and bullet.

Paul

Edited September 26, 2007 by sheathmaker

[Luke Hatley]

I saw them in person today and they looked very good.

[gearsmithy]

You mean like this?

Lots of trial and error! I've tried every method under the sun. The best way I've found is to use a .40 and a .45 spent shell casing. Here's how I did the one above:

1. Go to the shooting range and find some spent .45 and spent .40 shell casings (you'll need a bunch of the .40 calibur).

2. take a scrap piece of leather and hammer the .40 casing through it (like a punch). The diameter of the .40 is just perfect to hold the lip of a .45.

3. push the .45 through the hole you just made in the leather.

4. use a dremil with a cutting bit to carefully cut off the "barrel" of the casing (all the way to the bottom arrow in the pic below). be sure to keep the "lip" in tact. You can do this by folding the leather over and pinching it in a vice, or just hold it with your hand (BE CAREFUL!)

5. This will leave you with a "button" shell casing

6. Now take your project and pound a NEW .40 casing through the spot where you want to attach the casing like you did in 1. Be sure to use a new .40 casing as they tend to warp in the process.

7. Push the "button" through the new hole from the back side of the project piece.

8. slobber some glue on the back and if you like add a thin piece of cloth for strength.

9. line the leather to cover up the backside and there you have it.

This gives a nice effect, here's what a finished piece looks like with the shells embedded:

Hope this helps!

[Gremlin]

Bingo!! We have a winner!! Thanks gearsmithy. Exactly where I've been headed as well. You've saved me a few steps in the experimentation. Nothing else seemed to work to my satisfaction. Since I want to use 9mm casings, I'm going to get the metal shop at work to make me a punch for the right size (If I don't already have one somewhere).

As for cutting the tube, I am using a mini pipe cutter from Home Depot. Works like a charm.

BTW, the bag you show here is one of the items I saw that got me interested in trying this. Nicely done. Think I saw that CC.

[gearsmithy]

Glad to help! I just found this forum since I usually post on CC. Have fun and be sure to post pics!