Crossbody Bag Prototype

[CastleLeatherWorks]

So this is my first attempt at making a bag of any sort. I’m actually really pleased with how it turned out. I’m calling this a prototype because I plan on making more with nicer leathers. While this looks pretty decent there’s quite a few scars on the leather and while it worked for this bag that’s not really the look I’m going for. Also I need to tweak the pattern a bit. And I need to make a strap just waiting on some leather to come in.

The bag is made of 2.5/3.0oz European veg tan from Tandy. Stitched with twist 0.45 cream linen thread and I used some cheap 5mm pricking irons from Amazon. The liner is some sort of suede from an old jacket liner I believe (my aunt gave it to me when I told her I was making leather goods) I got the gold hardware from sav-more leather in Downtown LA. 
 

I’d really like to hear what you think or maybe offer some insight. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to glue the seams before sewing ( I didn’t ) also I forgot to undo the zipper A little bit before closed it up so that was a total pain trying to get the zipper open so I could flip it. Here’s a lot of pics =)
 

Thanks for looking !

Edited April 7, 2020 by CastleLeatherWorks

[CastleLeatherWorks]

More pics..

[CastleLeatherWorks]

[LatigoAmigo]

53 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

Thanks for looking !

Definitely worth looking at. Very nice job. I wish I could give you some critical feedback, but I can only say that it is an impressive bag that simply knocked me out.

When I make a bag, I've found that I must line it. I know that many leather workers on this site don't line theirs, but I just can't bring myself to do that... it seems unfinished. Have you given thought to a liner of some sort?

[CastleLeatherWorks]

4 minutes ago, LatigoAmigo said:

Definitely worth looking at. Very nice job. I wish I could give you some critical feedback, but I can only say that it is an impressive bag that simply knocked me out.

When I make a bag, I've found that I must line it. I know that many leather workers on this site don't line theirs, but I just can't bring myself to do that... it seems unfinished. Have you given thought to a liner of some sort?

Yes the bag is actually lined.... meaning I lined the leather pieces before sewing together. I was thinking if there was a better way to hide the seams .... I didn’t even think of doing a drop in liner but thinking about it now it makes more sense for a turned bag so you won’t see the turned edges on the inside. What material do you use for liners if I may ask ? And how do you do it lol like do you just make a smaller bag of whatever liner material and sew it in. I should probably read a bag making book lol 

anyways appreciate the feedback it got my gears turning !!

[LatigoAmigo]

43 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

What material do you use for liners if I may ask ? And how do you do it lol like do you just make a smaller bag of whatever liner material and sew it in. I should probably read a bag making book lol 

Oh, now I see the liner. Very clean.

I don't do turned bags, so I'm not hiding seams, but looking for an opportunity to add pockets and dividers. I typically use a leather that's softer than the shell and have used a variety of leather types (pig, sheep, goat, calf), but lately I've been using what Maverick Leather calls "horse front." It is a thin but sturdy material with some "character" built into the finish (I also cut it for lace). But... because of the pockets (sometimes with zippers) it means that I am building two bags, and dropping one into the other. Takes more time, but I can't seem to do anything less. 

I have read several books on bags, but it mostly becomes trial and error, because in order to fit correctly the interior bag must be shorter and narrower than the exterior bag, while at the same time they must be nearly the same size where they are attached. Otherwise the liner will not lay flat, and will not look or work very well.

[CastleLeatherWorks]

@LatigoAmigo 

wow that bag looks awesome, very impressive! do you have any more pictures ?

the leather looks great (what kind is it?) and your liner looks really nice. is your bag hand or machine stitched?

I think ive seen that stuff on the maverick site come to think of it... ill have to check it out again.

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

the leather looks great (what kind is it?) and your liner looks really nice. is your bag hand or machine stitched?

The body of the bag is bison, the handle is latigo and the trim is cowhide, all purchased from The Hide House in Napa. The material is cut with a laser cutter (including lacing holes) and then hand-stitched. This bag took about 30 hours to produce. Here are some more pics.

[CastleLeatherWorks]

@LatigoAmigo 

Man that is impressive ! great choice of materials and the workmanship is top notch. im assuming the pattern is yours?

I like that there's lots of little details for your eyes to catch I keep seeing something new every time I look at the pic's,

how do you like the laser cutter? are you using A glowforge or something more industrial ?

[LatigoAmigo]

35 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

im assuming the pattern is yours?

I like that there's lots of little details for your eyes to catch I keep seeing something new every time I look at the pic's,

how do you like the laser cutter? are you using A glowforge or something more industrial ?

I create all of my own patterns using Adobe Illustrator.

I spent some time studying graphic design, where I learned a few "tricks of the trade."

On Craig's List, I found a 100-watt CO2 laser located nearby. It wasn't what I would have preferred, but it fit my pocketbook. The work area of the bed measures 20 x 30 inches.

There is a bit of a learning curve when cutting various types of leather, and then there is the smell. I just installed a fume extractor to eliminate offensive odors.

[CastleLeatherWorks]

37 minutes ago, LatigoAmigo said:

I create all of my own patterns using Adobe Illustrator.

I spent some time studying graphic design, where I learned a few "tricks of the trade."

On Craig's List, I found a 100-watt CO2 laser located nearby. It wasn't what I would have preferred, but it fit my pocketbook. The work area of the bed measures 20 x 30 inches.

There is a bit of a learning curve when cutting various types of leather, and then there is the smell. I just installed a fume extractor to eliminate offensive odors.

ahh that's cool I actually went to graphic design school back in the early 2000s and dropped out shortly after lol (to much history and English and not enough graphic design)

 I was actually just going to get the monthly adobe subscription so I could do some design work in illustrator.

20x30 is a pretty decent work envelope.. I was actually looking into the laser cutters a while back but I never pulled the trigger. they seem pretty handy for all sorts of things not just cutting leather but

 I think right now a bell skiver would be the most beneficial for my needs. appreciate the convo and help !

 

[DomsLeather]

2 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

I create all of my own patterns using Adobe Illustrator.

I spent some time studying graphic design, where I learned a few "tricks of the trade."

On Craig's List, I found a 100-watt CO2 laser located nearby. It wasn't what I would have preferred, but it fit my pocketbook. The work area of the bed measures 20 x 30 inches.

There is a bit of a learning curve when cutting various types of leather, and then there is the smell. I just installed a fume extractor to eliminate offensive odors.

I have used some laser cut and etched leather before. I hated it because of the burnt hair smell. They were keychains cut out and logo lasered on them. I put the rings on them and riveted them. Does the smell fade?  I got them from the laser guy right after he cut and engraved them. 

[LatigoAmigo]

15 minutes ago, DomsLeather said:

Does the smell fade?

It does, but I help it along as much as I can. First I coat the leather with a paste I make that I found on the site here. It is for braiding (Ivory soap, lard and water), but ends up like a very light saddle soap. I apply it before lasering and it picks up much of the residue that might find its way onto the surface of the hide, then wipe with a microfiber cloth. On the edges I use foaming saddle soap and work it in, then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Then I seal the edges with Tokonole edge paint. It applies easily, is water based and dries quickly. Two coats of that and I'm done. The smell is cleaned off of the surface, and any residual smells are sealed into the edges.

If I do any engraving, I rub Fiebing's Antique Finish into the lasered area, and let the leather soak it up, then rub the excess off very gently. Laser engraving creates an image that is very fragile, so I don't rub it in, but I don't engrave often, so I have limited experience with it.

Hope that helps. I must add that I don't cut veg-tanned leathers, only chrome and combo tanned (like latigo).

[DomsLeather]

Thanks for the response. This was raw vegtan.  It was horrible. 

[shripud]

On 4/7/2020 at 10:18 AM, CastleLeatherWorks said:

So this is my first attempt at making a bag of any sort. I’m actually really pleased with how it turned out. I’m calling this a prototype because I plan on making more with nicer leathers. While this looks pretty decent there’s quite a few scars on the leather and while it worked for this bag that’s not really the look I’m going for. Also I need to tweak the pattern a bit. And I need to make a strap just waiting on some leather to come in.

The bag is made of 2.5/3.0oz European veg tan from Tandy. Stitched with twist 0.45 cream linen thread and I used some cheap 5mm pricking irons from Amazon. The liner is some sort of suede from an old jacket liner I believe (my aunt gave it to me when I told her I was making leather goods) I got the gold hardware from sav-more leather in Downtown LA. 
 

I’d really like to hear what you think or maybe offer some insight. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to glue the seams before sewing ( I didn’t ) also I forgot to undo the zipper A little bit before closed it up so that was a total pain trying to get the zipper open so I could flip it. Here’s a lot of pics =)
 

Thanks for looking !

Hello,

its a great effort and the bags looks very good.

1. Corner Correction.

In turned type of bags the corners present a small challenge. The corners of your bags are puffed out and not neatly tucked in. 

A work around for this is that you can give a row of stitches lower than the existing stitches while your bag is flipped inside out as you would to make this kind of turned in bag.

2. Piping Installation

To make the the transition from the face of the bag to the gusset and from the back of the bag to gusset a bit smoother its suggest to add a piping wrapped in the article's leather.

Just makes it a little neater and professional.